No WTS light no cold cracks

[ejstoy]

Old trusty is firing up. New GP relay (cheepy), tach moves, no wst light, #22 fuse is good, PLENTY of smoke GP clicks and volt meter drops (little bit maybe not enough) GP replaced not to long ago, spins plenty fast. No problems exept cold starts. What am I missing. Prayer helps. When it does finally fire up I barley have to touch the starter. Jumping the GPR doesn't help. Thank for the help.

[bugman]

Have you tested the relay and plugs? No WTS light could be a burnt out bulb or PCM problem if you are sure that the #22 fuse is good.

[ejstoy]

I haven't ohmed out the plugs but they are relatively new. The relay is clicking. I felt it cut off while I was jumping it out. Any other way to test them?

[ejstoy]

And the fuse I just pulled out and looked at it. Looked good.

[bugman]

Just because the relay is clicking doesn't mean that it is working. You need to test it with a digitial volt/ohm meter.

[DaveH.]

I would pull the #22 fuse and replace it anyways, just incase it is bad,
happened before, someone said it lookd good only to replace it anyways and found it was bad.
If it is blown , remove fuel heater connection to make sure that isnt the problem as well.

[madpogue]

If the tach is moving, fuse 22 is NOT blown.

Can you get your hands on a scanner or PC with AutoEnginuity, something that can read live data? Gotta wonder if the EOT (engine oil temp) sensor is whacked out, making the PCM think the engine is fully hot, thus not turning on the WTS light or the GPR.