oil cooler re-install, a part fell out. dont know assembly order
My oil cooler o rings failed. I am on the third day on this project and was soo looking forward to putting it back on before dark.
When I removed it a piece fell out from the oil filter end of things. It is two part barrel and a spring.
I dont dare try to bolt things together until know what order it is supposed to go in.
Every tutorial and thread I have been able to find doesn't mention this piece at all. I am stuck until I know.
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95 f350 crew cab 4x4 255K mi, K+N in chopped up stock box, 3.55 rear, 3" downpipe. Electric fans. No EBCV. over 27K miles on 2 tank system heated veggie fuel.
84 Mercedes 300sd 18k miles on veggie blends.
OK, here goes. Place the long one down on a table with the end with the holes in it towards the bottom. Then the shorter one goes inside the long one with the flange on towards the top. Then the spring drops in. Now this assembly goes into the round hole in the header that your middle finger is covering up, spring first. You may have to stake the one that you have so that it will stay in the hole, the newer ones that I am looking at have a snap ring to hold it in.
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
On the older oil filter header adapters, there were two places that parts could fall out of: The oil pressure filter bypass valve pieces (where the filter screws on) and the oil pressure regulating valve pieces (what the picture is showing). Sadly, I can't remember the order/orientation that they go back in, but I have seen posts that show it. I'll have to search (maybe someone else will chime in on this). The later filter adapters have these two valves retained with snap rings.
In edit: bugman had the answer while I was typing. Cheers!
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97 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed
thanks for the replies everybody.
I know where it came out just not the order it goes back in. In the pic my ring and middle finger was blocking the camera view of the hole it came out of.
Bugman's description might get me to where I need to be with putting it back in the right order. Tomorrow with daylight Ill take a picture with it set up the way that seems to match that description and see if you guys can confirm that it is right before I put it back on.
What is the name of this doo-hickie anyway? My google-fu and searches in here arn't putting me on target because I dont know what this thing is called. Hah.
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95 f350 crew cab 4x4 255K mi, K+N in chopped up stock box, 3.55 rear, 3" downpipe. Electric fans. No EBCV. over 27K miles on 2 tank system heated veggie fuel.
84 Mercedes 300sd 18k miles on veggie blends.
OK, here goes. Place the long one down on a table with the end with the holes in it towards the bottom. Then the shorter one goes inside the long one with the flange on towards the top. Then the spring drops in. Now this assembly goes into the round hole in the header that your middle finger is covering up, spring first. You may have to stake the one that you have so that it will stay in the hole, the newer ones that I am looking at have a snap ring to hold it in.
Pics attached. The orientation of the big piece may be in doubt because the holes seem to be exactly half way to me, but if the small piece is next and the spring is inside then this seems arrangement seems to drop in there like it was meant to be.
See if the pics represent what you are saying.
You mentioned snap ring. Man it sure does seem like there is supposed to be something there holding this in. Do I have a part that wandered off?
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95 f350 crew cab 4x4 255K mi, K+N in chopped up stock box, 3.55 rear, 3" downpipe. Electric fans. No EBCV. over 27K miles on 2 tank system heated veggie fuel.
84 Mercedes 300sd 18k miles on veggie blends.
That is the oil pressure regulating valve. The main part is the oil cooler header/oil filter adapter. The earlier trucks had the bypass valve (a spring, washer, and disc on the oil filter side) simply staked in place. It liked to fall out (into your oil change bucket when removing the filter), so you might want to look for it prior to replacing the header (if its missing you will be bypassing the filter!). The later OBS trucks got an updated header that had the bypass and regulating valves held in with snap rings (you'll notice that your part does not have a groove in the bore for the snap ring). Here's the part number for the updated part:
Oil Filter Header(with updated snap ring retained bypass and regulating valves)
(Ford) F81Z-6881-BA
If you need to get one, get it from someplace like Tousley Ford Parts (unless your local dealer gives you a break). Cheers!
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97 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed
OK
I was just walking out to the driveway to go put the cooler back on but now I am back to "nervous to bolt it back up" mode again.
After digesting your post a little more while getting more pictures ready I get what you are saying. Ignore annotations on pics. they were made before I got my head wrapped around what you were saying about the differences in the different years.
Disk by oil filter is still in place.
Just before dark I got it all loosely put into place. In the morning I will tighten the bolts up and keep my fingers crossed and edit this post with progress.
Unrelated side note. Lots of motor oil on an electrical grounding cable under just underneath the front mounting point of the cooler. Could have something to do with my cold hard to start condition for years. Looking forward to seeing if cleaning that up does anything.
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95 f350 crew cab 4x4 255K mi, K+N in chopped up stock box, 3.55 rear, 3" downpipe. Electric fans. No EBCV. over 27K miles on 2 tank system heated veggie fuel.
84 Mercedes 300sd 18k miles on veggie blends.
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