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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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Old 03-18-2010, 12:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Oil Pan Leak

I've got a leak coming from the side of my oil pan, right where the dipstick goes into the pan. I tried to tighten the large ring, but it seems to get tight and then let go like its stripped or something. Anyone have an experience like this, and how'd you fix it if you did. Thanks
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Watch this video. A lot of people give this guy a hard time, but this set of vids about leaks is pretty good.

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Old 03-18-2010, 03:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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just connect a piece of wire on to vicegrips and tie it to the manifold then if you slip you wont lose everything in the pan
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Old 03-19-2010, 02:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Mine leaked like that, I repaired mine early this winter and so far so good. First I cleaned the whole area real well with brake cleaner and rags. I put a set of vice grips on the assembly coming out of the pan, loosened the large ring and cleaned behind it real well, then gooped it all up with The Right Stuff gasket maker and tightened the nut back up ( getting the nut restarted was tricky). and gooped around that too. Let it all dry real good before starting even put a lamp by it to help it dry faster because my garage was cold that night. Don't cheap out and use normal RTV the right stuff works good and is worth the price. If you think you got brake cleaner in the oil pan make sure to change the oil before starting and you might want to even let a couple quarts of clean oil drain through with the plug out to flush it.

I know that is not the professional way to do it, International sells a kit with a new seal, but it has been working for me so far. Also you might be screwed if that nut is stripped??? If that nut is not getting real tight the pro kit might not work anyway so try what I did......worth a shot Also read up real good about the risk of the assembly falling in the pan, you might want to take more precaution than I did. HTH
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Old 03-20-2010, 02:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. That video is pretty good to give you an idea of what your dealin with. I'll give it a shot and see how it fixes things.
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1996 PSD, XL, 2wd, SRW
331,000 miles. Amsoil Synthetic, and Cat extended life coolant. Diesel Site 203* T-stat. 4 inch straight piped exhaust. Tymar intake. Leather Captains Seats. 120 gal. Heated Veggie tank in rear. Shimmed FPR. TS 6 Pos. Chip (stock, hi-idle, 50,75,100,140). DIY Stage 1 160cc injectors. Valaire Con O Clutch. Stainless 10" drop 15K hercules rear bumper. 3 gauge pillar pod: autometer digital boost, pyro, voltmeter. BFG AT's 285/75/16
Pulling a 31' 1985 Airstream Excella
1986 Hunter 23
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I found if I pulled the assembly out, the nut got started. Seemed to tighten up fine and stopped leaking. So far so good.
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1996 PSD, XL, 2wd, SRW
331,000 miles. Amsoil Synthetic, and Cat extended life coolant. Diesel Site 203* T-stat. 4 inch straight piped exhaust. Tymar intake. Leather Captains Seats. 120 gal. Heated Veggie tank in rear. Shimmed FPR. TS 6 Pos. Chip (stock, hi-idle, 50,75,100,140). DIY Stage 1 160cc injectors. Valaire Con O Clutch. Stainless 10" drop 15K hercules rear bumper. 3 gauge pillar pod: autometer digital boost, pyro, voltmeter. BFG AT's 285/75/16
Pulling a 31' 1985 Airstream Excella
1986 Hunter 23
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