Truck currently has almost 300K on it. It is begining to leak a little oil and use a little oil. It is leaking from everywhere, but only a little.
I plan on owning the truck for another 5 years before it will be demoted to a dump/plow rig. Is it worth the hassle or should I let it leak?
Yank engine
Completely re-seal
Do up pipe gaskets and donuts
Do things like the oil cooler etc.
Put back in and smile for another 150K.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I'd love to have the time to do that to mine. I hate leaks and luckily my driveway is gravel! If you can afford the time and the truck downtime I'd do it. Of course there's lots of other engine bay cleanup to do while everything's out. Cheers!
I have friends that seem to think they can have the motor out in 2-3 hours. I know I don't work that fast, but it looks like it could be done in a long weekend with a helper or two?
I have run AMSOIL since I bought it with 75K. I am leaking about a quart (best guess) every 1000 miles. I hate to see money like that go on the ground. Maybe I should switch back to Rotella and not worry about it, but I have gotten into the groove of not changing the oil. That will be hard to overcome.
I will have to see what my potential helpers say. I have other cars to drive if nothing goes right.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
lock the helpers to the truck,,and tell them they aint leaving till the jobs done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
go for it and while u got it upside down to put a pan gasket on it put a set of bearings in it they are cheap and no better time to do it then when u got it upside down
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95 f-250 444e e4od 4X4 ex cab long bed 3.55ls White Knight Reverse Lights, AIC, FORD seatcovers, AFE STAGE2 INTAKE, 3" downpipe 4" exhuast, EDGE Evolution 100hp setting, auto meter ultra lite pyro, tranny and boost gauges, .177bb in FPR, amsoil atf in transmission & tcase, amsoil syn gear lube in rear diff, bilstien shocks, fog lights
************future mods*******************
intercooler, smaller turbo housing, window tinting
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03 vw jetta tdi stock for now
I agree with all in the last post EXCEPT...the pan gasket. I have seen that plain ol ultra black rtv works just fine and dandy..it wont everr "dry out" like a gasket.
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1997 F-350, XLT, dually, crew cab, 7.3 PSD, E4OD auto, Autometer Pyro and boost, DpTuner F5, 3.5"DP to 4" straight out the side, B+W turnover goosneck hitch
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