hub, turn nut on till its tight, probably about 60lbs, then back off about 1/4 turn, probably like 6-8 clicks.
the axleshafts. tight, but dont snap them. i hammer them with my GOOD IR on the low setting.
lots of junk
97 f350, 7.3L, 2wd, auto, exhuast, intake, injectors, chip, IC, big gooseneck.
93 f350. 7.3L idi turbo, 2wd, 5 speed, dually. Pics
i do not think that what he is talking about. the 8 bolts holding axle in. is what he is talking about, i belive. they do not get backed off 1/4 turn.
1996 F350 C/Cab,7.3L PSD/M Burgundy/15000 lb warn winch/Tymar filter/4"exhaust/no kitty/pre turbo pyro/boost guage/BD4banks chip/no back seat, custom tool box instead/110 4000 watt inverter/on board air/200 amp alternator/4"lift/ Royal purple oil rear 75/140,syncromax in tranney/RottelaT 15/40 in engine with Durolube/Evens npt+ watterless antifreze/luk clutch solid flywheel/home made AIC/power stearing line mod/home made traction bars,
glow relay mod= instaled LED light in dash so i can tell if GP relay is working or not.
Per manual, tighten bearings to 55-65ft/lbs at the big nuts, then back them off 1/8 turn (which equals five clicks - easy to gauge even if you can't hear them, as there are 8 axle bolts, thus 1/8 turn), then after you set her down on the ground, tighten the axle bolts to 60-80 ft/lbs. Wheels should be 140 ft/lbs.
'96 F350 XLT CC 4x4 PSD auto LWB 4.10 open, white, open intake, Tymar HX, 3"DPP downpipe, 315 General A/T on factory Alcoas, big front bumper w/4 really bright lights; F add-a-leaf, new alt x3, fuel pump x3, water pump x2, vac pump x 3, PS pump x3, SD starter, rebuilt seats, total poly bushing kit, serious noise reduction, new tan interior and vinyl floor, Bilsteins, Bean's Stage 1s, Tony Wildman 4-pos chip (wow), etc ad infinitum, black Lab in backseat, locally rebuilt tranny & new TC @ 211k, complete body 'makeover' and repaint @ 213k, new fast-spool turbo 7/11, 284k miles on 4 Mar '12 and counting...
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