I had a pool of coolant under my truck a couple days ago so I dug in and replaced the water pump. My hoses are original so I decided that 11 year old hoses should be replaced while I'm in there. Had no trouble finding replacement hoses for everything except the long heater hose that goes from the radiator to the heater core and has a "T" in it to the engine. The hose on my truck appears to be formed at the radiator end, the "T" is crimped into the hoses and the short hose to the head is formed. I can't find any parts houses that stock this hose. Some do appear to have available the pieces of hose to make the complete assembly but do not show the "T". NAPA's listing of the long section that connects to the radiator is too large a diameter. I'm thinking I will have to go to the dealer to get a complete hose assembly. What have you guys been doing to replace this hose? If you built your own assembly what are the sizes of the various pieces and what type "T" did you use.
__________________ 97 F-250 SC LB PSD. 4x4, BTS E4OD, 4:10LS. Baby Swamps, DP-Tuner F5 custom 6 program chip, 1.0 housing, SD-IC, SD-HPOP, IDM mod, HPX, Black Box ICP mod, Black Box MAP sim mod, Hypermax DP & 5" ex., Aero-Turbine, TYMAR intake, RW Turbo-Trac, Gauges, Airlift bags, Add-a-leaf, Superwinch hubs, Class V rear receiver, RBW Lil Rocker, DIY Tow hooks. Milemarker hyd. winch. Elkhorn 9VS slide-in, Nomad 24 ft. fifth/w slide, Century topper, old classic Sooner 18' 4 horse stock trailer. StarFlyte by DynaMax 6.8 V10 If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.
Larry
what some have done is just buy the length of hose you need,
then cut the crimps off the oe "T" and then just cut the new hose to the oe lengths and use hose clamps to secure the new sections of hose to the oe "T"
what some have done is just buy the length of hose you need,
then cut the crimps off the oe "T" and then just cut the new hose to the oe lengths and use hose clamps to secure the new sections of hose to the oe "T"
This is what I did and it works fine. Under the factory crimps is a tee that can be re-used.
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'96 F350 SRW 4door 127k miles, 10k, fuel pressure shim, oilguard bypass filter, Amsoil, DP, Royal purple in the rear, stancor relay, SCMT 1705, ISSPRO pyrometer, free flowing 4" intake and Donaldson filter, Dieselsite aux tranny filter, Tymar coolant bypass filter.
I cut the crimps and found the two formed hoses, long 1/2 inch and short 5/8 inch, at Checker Auto. I got all the other hoses from Checker, too. They ordered the hoses and got them the same day. My new hoses are routed a bit differently and do not rub on the frame anymore. Tomorrow I drain the block and fill her up with John Deere Cool Gard. I've been running Cool Gard since the first change in my 95 and really am pleased. They claim its good for 5 years and the stuff I drained out looks like new. I only had to add DCA once in the five years its been in. Thanks for the help.
__________________ 97 F-250 SC LB PSD. 4x4, BTS E4OD, 4:10LS. Baby Swamps, DP-Tuner F5 custom 6 program chip, 1.0 housing, SD-IC, SD-HPOP, IDM mod, HPX, Black Box ICP mod, Black Box MAP sim mod, Hypermax DP & 5" ex., Aero-Turbine, TYMAR intake, RW Turbo-Trac, Gauges, Airlift bags, Add-a-leaf, Superwinch hubs, Class V rear receiver, RBW Lil Rocker, DIY Tow hooks. Milemarker hyd. winch. Elkhorn 9VS slide-in, Nomad 24 ft. fifth/w slide, Century topper, old classic Sooner 18' 4 horse stock trailer. StarFlyte by DynaMax 6.8 V10 If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.
Larry
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