Tomorrow I'm going to replace the mechanical diesel fuel pump located above the valley on my bosses 1996 7.3 liter powerstroke diesel. It feeds the injector lines.
The symptoms we have are continuous diesel fuel leak in the valley, and slight mis in one cylinder(not sure which one) also hear slight tapping sound.
I checked the fuel lines goin into the pump and they were dry. The outgoin lines goin to injectors are on a single block which I can't tell if there is a leak there cause its kinda close to bottom of valley so may be wet from sloshing of diesel there. Somewhere I read that this pump has a weep hole where it sometimes leaks. I believe this could be our problem. For sure I will check the original pump once I remove it to see if there are signs of leaking there.
I have already purchased the pump and just wanted to get some good advice from someone who knows about this. No instructions came with the new pump box.It appears it has a shaft that may go down to camshaft. should I use cam lube on base of this shaft? What should I watch out for during this installation? are there o-rings that need to be replaced? Is there a chance of installing at wrong cam rotation?
Please let me know tonight if possible since I will be going to do it tomorrow morning. Thanks for your help.
It is greatly appreciated.
Many of us are indebted to Sam for his write-up! Good luck.
Also, on the miss, while you have your head under the hood, have a look at the 4 valve cover connectors (unplug them and look for burnt pins). It's a quick check and is a common source of rough running/misfire.
pull the old pump straight up to remove and ... try not to torque the fuel lines at the banjo bolt and you will have a easier time running the banjo bolt back into the new pump. you don't have to remove the fuel cannister... just unbolt it and disconnect the electrical connections...hook up hoses from cannister to pump prior to seating the pump.
97 f250 4x4 ext cab tymar filter e4od 410 ts chip dp and 4" exhaust system
run the banjo bolt in and out of the pump several times by hand before you install the pump to work out any possible burrs on the threads. the new pump will not come with the two metal washers that sandwich the bolt. you may get by w/o replacing them but maybe not for long. be prepared to bend a 1 1/4" wrench in all sorts of ways to fit under the turbo. to prevent the tappet from dislodging the pump and fall into the engine, remove the pump mount bolts, rotate engine by hand and watch for the pump to rise. when this happens, the cam lobe is tdc and will block the tappets path. a few tips for you.
2005 F-250 King Ranch * 4X4 * 4" exhaust / 5" tip * Let the mods begin......
1994 F-250 Super Cab * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
run the banjo bolt in and out of the pump several times by hand before you install the pump to work out any possible burrs on the threads. the new pump will not come with the two metal washers that sandwich the bolt. you may get by w/o replacing them but maybe not for long.
Very large hands have a harder time threading the banjo bolt than someone with long arms and a smaller hand.
'97 F-350 7.3L PSD RC LB 4WD E4OD - Plant Drive VO kit
'84 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two-tank VO
Running on Veg Oil and Biodiesel since May 2006