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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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Old 02-22-2008, 06:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Replacing mechanical pump on 1996 Powerstroke

Hi,
Tomorrow I'm going to replace the mechanical diesel fuel pump located above the valley on my bosses 1996 7.3 liter powerstroke diesel. It feeds the injector lines.

The symptoms we have are continuous diesel fuel leak in the valley, and slight mis in one cylinder(not sure which one) also hear slight tapping sound.
I checked the fuel lines goin into the pump and they were dry. The outgoin lines goin to injectors are on a single block which I can't tell if there is a leak there cause its kinda close to bottom of valley so may be wet from sloshing of diesel there. Somewhere I read that this pump has a weep hole where it sometimes leaks. I believe this could be our problem. For sure I will check the original pump once I remove it to see if there are signs of leaking there.

I have already purchased the pump and just wanted to get some good advice from someone who knows about this. No instructions came with the new pump box. It appears it has a shaft that may go down to camshaft. should I use cam lube on base of this shaft? What should I watch out for during this installation? are there o-rings that need to be replaced? Is there a chance of installing at wrong cam rotation?
Please let me know tonight if possible since I will be going to do it tomorrow morning.
Thanks for your help.
It is greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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See the Sam Miller write up in this thread - it's pretty comprehensive for what needs to be done.

fuel pump
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you!
You may have saved my job.. lol
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmthunder View Post
Thank you!
You may have saved my job.. lol
Many of us are indebted to Sam for his write-up! Good luck.

Also, on the miss, while you have your head under the hood, have a look at the 4 valve cover connectors (unplug them and look for burnt pins). It's a quick check and is a common source of rough running/misfire.
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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pull the old pump straight up to remove and ... try not to torque the fuel lines at the banjo bolt and you will have a easier time running the banjo bolt back into the new pump. you don't have to remove the fuel cannister... just unbolt it and disconnect the electrical connections...hook up hoses from cannister to pump prior to seating the pump.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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run the banjo bolt in and out of the pump several times by hand before you install the pump to work out any possible burrs on the threads. the new pump will not come with the two metal washers that sandwich the bolt. you may get by w/o replacing them but maybe not for long. be prepared to bend a 1 1/4" wrench in all sorts of ways to fit under the turbo. to prevent the tappet from dislodging the pump and fall into the engine, remove the pump mount bolts, rotate engine by hand and watch for the pump to rise. when this happens, the cam lobe is tdc and will block the tappets path. a few tips for you.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94strokerace View Post
run the banjo bolt in and out of the pump several times by hand before you install the pump to work out any possible burrs on the threads. the new pump will not come with the two metal washers that sandwich the bolt. you may get by w/o replacing them but maybe not for long.
+1
Very large hands have a harder time threading the banjo bolt than someone with long arms and a smaller hand.
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