Starts then dies...

[tcgrmt]

Rob,

Guess the quick IPR swap wasn't going to work for you since you where rebuilding the old one. duh! Need to engage brain before typing.

Did you get the IPR done and/or swapping relay's?

I'm waiting on parts. Hopefully the IPR will be your problem.

[red4x4neck]

Originally Posted by tcgrmt

The second time I pulled mine to put the new one in I just pulled the old one and stuck the new one in really quick. Keep the oil plug on top of the HPOP closed. There is enough vaccum that only a small amount of oil comes out in the short time required to swap in the new one. Worked for me.

Hey Tcgrmt
Thanks for the advice. I haven't had a minute to work on my truck. I don't have to rely on it so it is relegated to avaliable off hours competing with a family of 4 and 2 twins on the way.
I bought some new pins/sealant for my IPR electrical plug, cause the silicone seal on the inside of the plug was seriously distorted from diesel. I am going to take my IPR out and clean it. Hopefully that has some impact. I am also going to buy the software from Autoenginuity for my ford and my honda commuter(plus my wifes Honda van). I am going to go hunting for at least the morning tomorrow so I am afraid I won't get back to the truck untill tomorrow.

Rob

[red4x4neck]

A new development.

I have now changed the IPR orings and cleaned it. It didn't not appear to be fowled at all. The truck will not even fire now.
So I decided to consult my Ford Service information for no start troubleshooting. Unfortunately I cannot do all the tests it calls out
BUT
during the preliminary chassis inspection the procedure has you observe the engine lights during starting. Specifically it talks about "Water In Fuel" indicator and that if lit you should drain and test the fuel in your fuel bowl.
My "Water In Fuel" light is lit while the egine is cranking (prior to start) and for the life of me I can't remember if I have seen it light up before...

Knowing this might be an issue I drained some fuel out of the fuel bowl and attempted to restart still with no success and "Water in Fuel" Still lit while cranking.

Anyone know how much fuel I should drain in order to get this light to clear?
Also I checked the Water in fuel module and the pins under the urethane cover look corroded, anyone ever have one of these fail?

Thanks
Rob

[m_beeson]

There is a plithera of information contained in these two threads, and the links within them.

Hard/No Start? Check here first.


'01 stroke difficult starting

[tcgrmt]

Did you fill the HPOP up?

I cleaned my IPR and changed the "O" rings and would not start also. Ended up installing a new IPR and it fired right up but then started the stalling again.

There's on OHM test for the coil on the IPR. Can't remember what it called for but I can check when I get home.

I ended up replaced the IPC along with a couple of other items (see my post) and the truck has been running good for a few days now.

Any luck hunting??

[oldrebuiltdodge]

If the ipr dosen't work try checking the oil pressure sending unit for the high pressure system located on the left side oil galley. Also try simply changing the oil. If it is too thick it WILL cause a problem. I had high oil consumption due to inj. o- rings, was running straight 30 wt. when I replaced the o-rings, it did the same thing. Start, set the check engine light and die like you shut the switch off. Oil change cured that problem.

[TBW2828]

i had a similar issue with my truck. it ended up being burnt and melted valve cover gaskets and a melted glow plug injector harness. replaced all of them just incase and fixed it. just a thought

[red4x4neck]

Originally Posted by tcgrmt

Did you fill the HPOP up?

I cleaned my IPR and changed the "O" rings and would not start also. Ended up installing a new IPR and it fired right up but then started the stalling again.

There's on OHM test for the coil on the IPR. Can't remember what it called for but I can check when I get home.

I ended up replaced the IPC along with a couple of other items (see my post) and the truck has been running good for a few days now.

Any luck hunting??

Hey thanks for the advice,
Yes My HPOP res is full and doesn't seem to drain down while sitting so I count that as good.
I should get my Autoenginuity software in the mail tommorrow so I can use this laptop I am typing on for even more advanced trouble shooting.
I fear I will be replacing the IPR and the ICP just for good measure.

When I cleaned the IPR I took the fuel pressure regulator off the bowl in clearance removal and found that the screen to the bowl was clear but the screen to the pipe at the bottom seemed awfully dirty. Any idea if this could cause a fueling problem?

Oh and no luck chas'n deer. I don't get a lot of time to scout so I am pretty much an armed outdoorsman who enjoys sitting out in the woods for extended periods of time



Rob

[red4x4neck]

Originally Posted by oldrebuiltdodge

If the ipr dosen't work try checking the oil pressure sending unit for the high pressure system located on the left side oil galley. Also try simply changing the oil. If it is too thick it WILL cause a problem. I had high oil consumption due to inj. o- rings, was running straight 30 wt. when I replaced the o-rings, it did the same thing. Start, set the check engine light and die like you shut the switch off. Oil change cured that problem.

Hey I appreciate the thoughts.

I use Dello 15w-40 and it doesn't seem to use more than about a 1 to 1.5 quarts per 5k miles (one change). I haven't changed Injector orings in about 60k so I may be coming due.

The other cardinal difference is that I am not getting a Check engine light unless I unplug the ICP, which I have done in order to see if that was the problem.

I will be changing the oil soon though.

Thanks

Rob

[red4x4neck]

Originally Posted by TBW2828

i had a similar issue with my truck. it ended up being burnt and melted valve cover gaskets and a melted glow plug injector harness. replaced all of them just incase and fixed it. just a thought

I havent taken the valve covers off yet to check all the internal connections. It would stand to reason why the truck was running rough prior the last few times it would start and stay running. I plan to pull the VC's this weekend and Ill get back to you on what effect that has.

Thanks
Rob

[red4x4neck]

Got my Autoenginuity software today and it seems to connect to the truck just fine but I am not pulling any codes.
I have NOT purchased the ford specific code from Autoenginuity.com

I tried starting the truck and watched the RPM display on the program count up so I know it is connecting.

I am just wondering if I should be seeing a DTC without a Check engine light OR do I need to purchase the ford specific program enhancement?

Thanks
Rob

[tcgrmt]

Rob I'm pretty sure you need the enhanced Ford level of software for our PSD's.

[red4x4neck]

Originally Posted by tcgrmt

Rob I'm pretty sure you need the enhanced Ford level of software for our PSD's.

I got the enhanced software yesterday and was able to try the KOEO self test today and the only thing that poped was P0113 (Air temp High) which I expected cause I no longer have my Air temp sensor plugged in since I have the TYMAR intake.

The crappy thing is that I tried to turn the truck over and see ICP, fuel and various other readings and found my batteries were severaly drained from repeated attempts to start and the motor would barely turn over. Confound that with the fact that my battery charger giving up the ghost I had to go give ye' ole parts store some more money.

So now I am fast charging the batteries back to health with my shinny new charger and we'll see whats what as far as sensor readings while cranking.

Thanks
Rob

[red4x4neck]

Well now I think I have something to go on.

I ran my scan program (autoenginuity) and was able to record the results for fuel pressure ICP PSI and Volts and engine rpm.

At starting rpm of 145-149 the fuel pressure consistently reads ZERO and the ICP only goes up to 98PSI. I think I may have at least on failed Injector Oring and/or a bad Fuel pressure sensor.

I think the fuel pressure sensor may be bad cause I have connected a mechanical pressure guage to the shrade valve on the FPR and see roughly 60psi which doesn't jive with the what the computer is reading.

Before I go and buy another fuel pressure sensor, does anyone know how to test one?
Will a 0 press value cause the truck not to start AND not send a CEL?

Thanks
Rob

[tcgrmt]

That starting RPM seems really low. Is that with the batteries charged up?

The ICP needs to see 500 PSI to start.

What sensor are you using to get fuel pressure? I don't think our trucks have a true fuel pressure sensor that provides data to the PCM.