truck pulls to the left when braking!! tried everything!! - Diesel Forum -
Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-29-2011, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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truck pulls to the left when braking!! tried everything!!

hey everone,

so my truck pulls to the left when braking, it started about 1 month ago , i pulled into a gas station and my passenger side brakes were smoking and smellt like burnig brakes. That night i noticed a leak under the drivers side wheel.
ive changed the2 front calipers, 2 new brake hoses, adjusted the rear drumbs, bled the brake system. checked suspension for worn parts,

truck still pulls to the left, tailwhips, jerks my steering wheel !!

1997 f-350 powerstroke diesel with over 250000 miles. Flatbed.

im having my rotors turned and going to install new pads right now, but for the meantime any ideas?

pls help!!

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-29-2011, 07:47 PM
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i dont see anywhere that you either greased or replaced the slide pins.its a common issue that the slide pins will freeze in the caliper bracket,so even if you replace a caliper if the pin is frozen its still not going to allow proper caliper travel.

2002 f250 lariat 7.3 220k(motor has 190k)
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-29-2011, 11:06 PM
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I just offer this up as a possibility: when I changed my ball joints I did the driver side first and took it for a spin and noticed it pulled to the passenger side. So, if your driver side ball joint is more worn, or looser, or more greased than the passenger side, that may explain why it is pulling to the left. I would also look at possible tire wear differences.


2000 F350 4x4, AIS, 203F Tstat, SS EGR Tube
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 10:37 PM
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Remove the master cylinder ans check for corrosion holdign up the MC pushrod....basically keeping the brakes on slightly...

clean all corrosion and reinstall or better yet, clean all corrosion and replace MC too.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 11:28 PM
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HUMMMM a puzzler to be sure...Have you checked for an lost or broken suspension parts? As I recall, the radius rod ( for lack of knowing what it is called) that connects the front axel to the frame. Right under the drivers seat, with a couple of big ole rubber biscuits and a couple of washers and a nut... Check that out and see if all that stuff is there. A washer has broken and fell out of my 97 and all it does is make it clunk on a dirt road and I am sure that it is messsing up my alignment. But maybe something bigger broke and fell out on yours... if that were the case then brake pressure would make that left front wheel come back and change the steering geometry,,,,maybe enough to produce the symptoms you describe.

A Ford man all my life.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 03:57 PM
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I'm having the same problem. tried everything.. replaced the driver's side outer tie-rod end per recommendation of alignment shop, changed all rotors, disks, pads, and shoes. The steering was off center but the shop says the specs are right in where they should be. Rotated tires.. still had the pull.

I did notice that the brakes were getting hot, like only the front brakes were doing the work. And, someone that looked at the front disks verifed that they appear to look scored. Now the smoking and brake burning smell is gone but it just doesn't feel right and I feel the brake pedal pulsating when I brake.

I think I found the problem with the pull on my particular rig. Two things: First, the Firestone guys say one of my rear leaf spring bushings is shot and it may be causing torque pull. Second, I have Air Lifts up front that I don't use but apparently the left one had about 30lbs in it and the right one was empty.. has a leak and won't hold pressure. I emptied the left one too and the steering wheel is nearly straight now ,and it tracks pretty decent. I think I need a wheel balance, that rear bushing, and a new alignment. Hope that works.

1996 Centurion C350 7.3L Powerstroke, Banks Transcommand, 3" SS Silver Line Down Pipe, front Air Lift bags, Local Remaned trans, Racer X Triple Billet TC, custom Racer X accumulator body, Rebuilt Turbo with Banks Wheel and 1.00 Turbine, Isspro boost, Pyro and Trans gauges, 3 Gauge Piller pod, Fumoto oil drain valve, Straight piped exhaust, DIESELSITE 203* Thermostat, Replaced PCM (true TDE1), Banks Stinger Plus Chip, EBPV delete, Kelly Safari TSRs 315/75 R16s, Reverse Shackle Kit with X-codes and B-codes.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 06:25 PM
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brake pull

ok i see that you have done the calipers and hoses thats good humor me this, have your bled the system properly(right rear,left rear,right front,left front)if you have and have no air in the system, take the lines off at the calipers and do a drip test get ya a pan and stick it under the hoses if they drip the same amount try a pressure test have your child/wife/girlfriend or buddy press the brake pedal and see if you have a pressure differance you may have a failing prop valve or dibris in theline
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