I have a 95 F250. Today when I was driving down the highway and I shifted into O/D and the exshaust was blowing out black smoke way more than usual. The engine just kept dropping speed and when I pushed in the clutch to pull over it died. So heres the kicker. It started right back up and will run good until I shift into O/D then it looses power and the engine light comes on. It will not have any power until I shut it off and restart it. I change the fuel filter last night thinking that was it. I don't know where to go from here.
Thanks
WRECKMASTER
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95 F250 MBRP 4" exhaust 3" dowpipe and DIY cold air intake.... More to come someday...........
Thanks. But I realize that when the light is on there is a code. I currently don't have my code reader. So I was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone. It seems to run good on a cold engine but when it warms up is when all hell breaks loose.
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95 F250 MBRP 4" exhaust 3" dowpipe and DIY cold air intake.... More to come someday...........
So I was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone.
We already know that's why you are here
It can be many things , if it set a light , it would help immensely to narrow it down. Do you want a wild guess,(Oil pressure , fuel pressure , CPS, IPR , ICP ,UVCH,) or would you prefer an educated one ?...The PCM is trying to help ...
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Rick.....
97 F 350 ...Lucky 13 "Most stuff's just stuck & needs hittin with a hammer"....
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Most people come here for the facts ...not a hug ...
Last edited by action4478 : 10-30-2009 at 07:07 PM.
The only time a similar thing happened to me, it was the high side of the fuel pump (of course that won't set a CEL either). Start with the basics: Check oil level. inspect all valvecover connections, sniff the oil cap. If you can, check the fuel pressure at idle and at WOT with a liquid filled 0-100 psi gauge on the shraeder valve at the fuel regulator. Possibly you are losing High Pressure oil pressure with warm, thin oil. That could be due to lots of things from IPR O-rings, Injector O-ring(s), etc. Cheers!
Thanks for the replys. I was sniffing around the valve cover wires and discovered a crispy connection. So when im fixing that Im gonna throw in glow plugs and injector O-rings ect. ect.
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95 F250 MBRP 4" exhaust 3" dowpipe and DIY cold air intake.... More to come someday...........
Alright now that I have replaced the wiring harnesses, injector o-rings, and new glow plugs I can't get this dang thing to start. All fuses are good, HPOP is full. I have read another post about how to do the o-rings and bleed the system, but maybe im missing something. Also the batteries are on the charger so it shouldn't be a voltage issue.
Can anyone enlighten on maybe another way to bleed the system? In the other thread they said to leave the injector harnesses unhooked and do a series of cranking the engine over and that would fill the oil and fuel rails. I don't know??
Thanks WRECKMASTER
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95 F250 MBRP 4" exhaust 3" dowpipe and DIY cold air intake.... More to come someday...........
cross the starter solenoid on the pass side fender well or take out the pcm fuse wait for oil to start spouting out in short quick bursts from the injectors. also i did DIY stage 1s and when i put the injectors back in the copper gasket on the tip of the injector slipped off and wedged between the injector and injector cup wall.... this 1 gasket caused a complete no start.
and it ran like total hell also didnt help i found loose ummm whatever that single bolt is that holds to metal square to the oil valve came loose but the biggest issue was the 1 gasket.
this should help fill the oil galleys and purge most of the air out of the system
i beleive that is the procedure someone will chime in if im wrong its been a year cant remember exactly how its done
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96 F250 Crew Cab LBox 5sp MBRP 3" DP no ear muff , 3pod pillar egt/Water/boost digital read outs, DIY Stage 1's, Gutted EBPV, Shimmed FPR, in bed 5th wheel screw in ball & plate, ADJ 10k mod. E-Fuel and ZF5 Swap Completed
97GTStang 5.4L - Traded and replaced with 04 Lincoln LS8
08 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i (3k winch only extra)
Thanks for all the help everyone. I got it running yesterday the HPOP had dropped from when I fisrt checked it. Kept rolling it over and adding oil and then I finally got it to run. After that it was starting hard so I tested the GP relay and that turned out to be bad as well. Threw in a new one tonight and it runs like a champ.
Do you guys suck the oil out of the HPOP when doing an oil change or does it drain out with the other oil? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
WRECKMASTER
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95 F250 MBRP 4" exhaust 3" dowpipe and DIY cold air intake.... More to come someday...........
The oil that's in the HPOP resrvoir and rails will not drain out when you drain the oil. It's not worth it (IMO) to suck it out as the oil in the HP system will drain back to the pan and get filtered when the engine is running. There's enough new oil going in on an oil cil/filter change that it will not make much difference. Cheers!
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