So, this is a really long story, but I'll try to give you guys just the highlights. It started with leaving me stranded occasionally and a fuel leak. So, after a diagnosis at the dealer, I replaced the fuel pump. Then I couldn't get it started. I had it towed back to the dealer. They replaced the GPR and the GPs (another long story). The mechanic was still confused as to why it wasn't getting fuel, so he pulled an injector. They had me come down to look at it because it was so bad and believe me, it was bad. I'll try to attach a pic. This is the result of 30K+ of veggie miles. Oh well. Anyway, I had it towed back to my place and I yanked the injectors and sent them up to Jim Rosewood(DzlJim). Not surprisingly, he said they were trash, so I bit the bullet and ordered stage 1s from him. So, now they're in after cleaning everything up as best as I could. It's running but running pretty badly(missing). I have the valve covers off and I was pulling the injector wires while it was running. When I pulled 1,3,5, and 7, it made it run even worse which means they're working. The same thing happened with #8. When I pulled 2, 4,and 6 it didn't seem to make a huge difference in the already poor idling. Jim suggested that they may not be seated right which is entirely possible since those were the first three I put in. I put a straight edge across the top of them and they looked pretty even. I'm wondering if them not being seated right would cause it to run like that. It's basically not driveable. And if they aren't seated right, what do I need to do? Just give them another whack or two with the rubber mallet or do I have to start all over with those injectors?
All the fuses are all right. The fuel filter is basically new. The FPR screen is clean. I don't know the fuel pressure but I know I need to probably get that.
Jim has been good about getting back to me, but I thought I would just put it out to a bunch of people smarter than I.
Thanks for any ideas you might have.
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97 F250 PSD, 4x4, SC, long bed, 4.10 rear, Tymar intake, Tru-cool 4590, DPPI dp, Autometer pyro & tranny guages, 125K
Alpine CD player, Infinity Reference speakers all the way around.
Converted to run on straight vegetable oil at 96,395 miles--I'll keep ya updated.
I'm new at this myself but I don't know how anybody can get to the bottom of these problems without a code reader OBO 11 or whatever there called. The dealer only gives you bits and pieces and bleeds you to death.-- The new model 6 comes out next week. $379 with the Ford Enhacment or whatever it is.So just under $400, you know what these shops cost and they will sell you the moon and pet you all the way there and take every dime you have to your name. And you are at there mercy. They even keep junk parts around and tell you they are yours.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
Last edited by midwestconnection; 11-11-2009 at 09:24 PM.
When you removed the old injectors, are you sure the copper washers came out too?
Its possible you cut o-rings while going in with the new injectors. With the truck running, v/c's off, watch for oil bubbling up around the affected injectors.
Did you give the injectors time to work out all the air from the oil and fuel?
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
Copper washers came out.
I suppose it's possible I cut the o-rings. I severely doubt it but at this point I would definitely say nothing is impossible!
Since my post, I have switched uvc harnesses twice and the whole valve cover gasket, so as I see it, the only thing left is the wiring on the outside of the valve cover. I started to unwrap those wires and didn't find anything initially. I sure hope my only choice is to buy that whole mess of wires to replace them! Anyway, that's where I'm at at this point. It's running, but running badly.
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97 F250 PSD, 4x4, SC, long bed, 4.10 rear, Tymar intake, Tru-cool 4590, DPPI dp, Autometer pyro & tranny guages, 125K
Alpine CD player, Infinity Reference speakers all the way around.
Converted to run on straight vegetable oil at 96,395 miles--I'll keep ya updated.
I would seriously consider trying another IDM module before replacing the wiring harnesses. If you know anyone with another OBS or up to 03 superduty with the 7.3 then you could ask to try their IDM in your truck and see if it starts. If so then a new IDM is only 200 versus probably a grand for a new harness from Ford.
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97 F-350 XLT CCLB 4X4,PSD
Gauges(boost/pyro) on triple pillar pod
CAI
IDM mod
4" DE turbo back catless exhaust
TS 6 pos. Chip
3" PA Body lift
ES body and suspension bushings/mounts
Extreme duty trans w/billet triple disc converter
B&M deep pan
Hayden "DAWG" trans cooler
Adrenaline HPOP
stage II's, D66, then custom tunes.
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