I followed advice and bought the reseal kit as I figured the ipr may be dirty or have crappy o-rings. My only question is where is it? I read it is behind the hpop res tank in valley, and know you need to take the 3/4 nut off to take sol out then use the 1 1/8 deep socket to take out the ipr. I have all the stuff and a welder to weld up flat iron on the deep socket, but cannot find the ipr. I read it it leaves the harness where the wires for the icp leave, but the wire that leaves there goes to back side of hpop res and appears to be a temp sensor or something. any pics or halp would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again guys - you are great, saves some big ching with your suggestion regarding wiring harness.
__________________
94 cc 350 longbed 5 spd man- fpr shim, home made intake, kitty with no guts,gutted ebpv, fuel heater disconnected, edge evolution programmer, egt guage, redline 80w-140 r. axle, new water pump 11/21/04 Replaced gp on 12/27/04 switched to rotella syn oil on 1/04/05 . replaced uvch and gasket 8/18/05. When in doubt, kill them all and let God sort em out later [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Look at the link below you will see some pictures, when I changed my IPR O-rings, be sure and scroll down the page and read the description under the picture of the IPR in the mirror,
__________________
1995 F250 XLT Powerstroke, Supercab, E40D tranny, 3.55 limited slip diff. (with all the bells and whistles) bucket seats and console, electric windows and door locks,intermitnent wipers, tilt wheel, cruse control, overdrive and turbo my IDI has none of these.
1985 Ford F-250 6.9L Std.cab,C-6 tranny, 3.55 Diff. DEEZEE Running boards, added factory Tach with existing circuit board, heater water bypass valve.
I found it, thanks. I cannot see how you can get a 3/4" wrench in there without taking of fpr or fuel bowl, but I will give it a try in early morning before it gets ove 100 here .
__________________
94 cc 350 longbed 5 spd man- fpr shim, home made intake, kitty with no guts,gutted ebpv, fuel heater disconnected, edge evolution programmer, egt guage, redline 80w-140 r. axle, new water pump 11/21/04 Replaced gp on 12/27/04 switched to rotella syn oil on 1/04/05 . replaced uvch and gasket 8/18/05. When in doubt, kill them all and let God sort em out later [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Whoever said you can do ipr without taking off fuel bowl must be a magician as I could not even get the deep socket over the head of the ipr once the sol was removed. I loosened the fpr ( could not get it all the way out as the hose on the bottom of fpr has once of those metal clamps that you need a special tool to put on)and got it mostly out of way, but the deep 1 1/8" socket does not even come close to fitting over the ipr as it hits the fuel bowl without even having the bar welded on or a socket wrench attatched to it. I tried to loosen bowl enough to get clearance but the two bolts under bowl came off but the main line to bottom of bowl does not have enough play in it to move the bowl at all. What is the real trick from someone who has done this? Engine still lacks power after doing the under v cover harness where it was burnt, and I suspect the ipr is sticking. Thanks again.
__________________
94 cc 350 longbed 5 spd man- fpr shim, home made intake, kitty with no guts,gutted ebpv, fuel heater disconnected, edge evolution programmer, egt guage, redline 80w-140 r. axle, new water pump 11/21/04 Replaced gp on 12/27/04 switched to rotella syn oil on 1/04/05 . replaced uvch and gasket 8/18/05. When in doubt, kill them all and let God sort em out later [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Secondly forget the socket...use a box end wrench.
Exerpt from the above thread on how to put the bowl back in:
<font color="red">Those of you interested the easiest way to get that fuel bowl re-connected and back in right is to connect the IPR connector first, then the front drain line, then the rear fuel pump connectors (bottom first) then the FPR line, then the two bolts, then the fromt fuel hoses, then the multi connector and FPR connector.
The mistake in the past someone made in abandoning the front drain hose connection is what allowed diesel to lay in the valley of death and eat up those wires in that loom under the fuel bowl.</font>
Those cheap factory squeeze clamps can be replaced with regular hose clamps.
[ QUOTE ]
Whoever said you can do ipr without taking off fuel bowl must be a magician as I could not even get the deep socket over the head of the ipr once the sol was removed. I loosened the fpr ( could not get it all the way out as the hose on the bottom of fpr has once of those metal clamps that you need a special tool to put on)and got it mostly out of way, but the deep 1 1/8" socket does not even come close to fitting over the ipr as it hits the fuel bowl without even having the bar welded on or a socket wrench attatched to it. I tried to loosen bowl enough to get clearance but the two bolts under bowl came off but the main line to bottom of bowl does not have enough play in it to move the bowl at all. What is the real trick from someone who has done this? Engine still lacks power after doing the under v cover harness where it was burnt, and I suspect the ipr is sticking. Thanks again.
[/ QUOTE ]
__________________
1996 F-250 PSD CREW Cab 4x4 short box
1992 F-350 7.3 CREW Cab Dually Long Box
If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.
-- Samuel Adams, speech at the Philadelphia State House, August 1, 1776.
Took bowl out and it was pudding to get the ipr off from there. while I was at it, I did replace the cracked hoses going from fuel pump to bowl - I could not believe how crappy they were. I also dumped fuel into bowl while it was loose and flushed it out - you would not believe how much grit and black crap came out from under the plate at bottom. I could do it again in an hour or so - things always easier when you know how. Oh, do siphon out the hpop res oil as it makes it a lot easier to clean the valley - use simply green for that. Not sure if I solved all the truck problems, but it def runs better now. I strongly suspect o-rings on injectors, but do not have the will power to take off the covers again in 108 degree heat. Will see how it runs for a bit [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
__________________
94 cc 350 longbed 5 spd man- fpr shim, home made intake, kitty with no guts,gutted ebpv, fuel heater disconnected, edge evolution programmer, egt guage, redline 80w-140 r. axle, new water pump 11/21/04 Replaced gp on 12/27/04 switched to rotella syn oil on 1/04/05 . replaced uvch and gasket 8/18/05. When in doubt, kill them all and let God sort em out later [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Don't ya just love it when a plan comes together? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
Kris
__________________
1996 F-250 PSD CREW Cab 4x4 short box
1992 F-350 7.3 CREW Cab Dually Long Box
If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.
-- Samuel Adams, speech at the Philadelphia State House, August 1, 1776.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.