Won't Start

[Excavator]

I ment did you ever have truck scanned.
As far as IDM, you can take it off and shake it to listen for water
They can get water in them and short out.
Again if you can get TRUCK scanned we will know better
Also as I said check the connections on IPR and harness
Also check the tin nut on IPR

[IPFreely]

[quote=bmzero;1564939]Yeah, when it did start, it started on about the first real rotation of the engine and then ran perfectly. But when it doesn't start, like now, it never hits at all.

I'm working on replacing the CPS now. I have the bolt out, but the dern CPS just won't come out. I'm about to get a bigger hammer. ;-)


..................You need a long screw driver ; there is an o'ring that makes for a snug fit . So , slowly wedge the end of the driver between the edge of the cps and the block , then slowly pry it out by using the edge of the harmonic balancer as a pivot point . It's easy once you visualize what i'm saying . , ipf

[bmzero]

Ok, so I stopped by another parts store and picked up a different scanner. It too has a "communication error" and will not read the code. I also checked the "wait to start" light and it does not come on.

So, based on that, could there be a problem in the PCM? Supposedly the previous owner put a bully dog chip in it. The knob is still there, but I don't see the module under the hood like I had on my previous 7.3. I'm going to trace the wire from the switch and see where it ends up now. If it's there, I'm going to remove it and give it another shot.


.b

[STurbo90]

The cheap scanners will not work on the psd. It needs to be a scanner with Ford enhanced programming.

If may still read basic codes, and if it is saying "error", I think the only other possibility is the #16 fuse in the fuse panel may be blown, of there is no power to the diagnostic connector, you can check for voltage on the #16 pin, should be a light/blue with white wire,

I see you checked the fuses earlier, but no "WTS" light the first thing to check is the #9 & 22 fuse in the underhood distribution box.

If the pcm has a chip and it is loose if can also cause no wts light. You should be able to just look behind the e-brake bracket and see if it is there. If you remove/reinstall the chip, make sure the key is OFF. Connecting/disconnecting a chip with power to the pcm will burn it up.

[bmzero]

Problem solved, maybe. I pulled the ECM and removed the chip. I didn't realize they were actually connected to the board on the ECM. My last few PSD's were 6.0's, so their chipping process is a little different. Anyway, I tried to read the code with the chip removed and as soon as I turned the key, the WTS light came on. I was thrilled. The CEL also went off on it's own. Then, I hooked up the scanner. It connected fine and said there were no codes, which is far better than a "no link" error.

I tried to crank it and nothing. I was floored, but decided to put the ECM back into it's slot (it was loose before) in hopes that it needed a chassis ground or something.

Well, I don't know if that was the reason or not, but after putting it back in its slot she fired right up and has been running for about 10 minutes with no problems. I'm going to take her for a spin. If you don't hear from me for a few hours, I didn't make it back. ;-)


.b

[bmzero]

Well, I made it back and it ran great during the 20 minute test drive. I even turned it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes at the half way mark. She fired right up and ran perfectly on the way home.

I'm going to send the chip back to Bully Dog to see if they can confirm that was the problem. The last Bully Dog chip I had (on '00 7.3L) was great. I thought something was up with this one since I couldn't tell any power difference regardless of which position the selector knob was in. It's out now and has just as much power as it ever did, except it actually runs now. ;-)

To all who helped diagnose the problem, thank you very much. You saved me literally hundreds of dollars, especially since I would have had to get a rollback to come out and pick it up to take it to a mechanic.

Thanks again.


.b

[dsltek]

wow man u gotta a whole slue of stuff gonin on first we gotta crank no start, vehicle cranks but will not start.....where to start. ok now u gotta get a code most likey its the cmp(cam position sensor) but we dont wanna start throwing parts when it cld be sumthin else. there has to be a fuse blown some where. usually it is on the cig. liter circuit and will blow due to a shorted out thingy that goes in there or cell ph. charger will surge. that i usually see if u cant communticate. and no there is no other way to retrieve it. also leave ur batt connected. isnt gonna reset nothin. cuz u can do that with the code scanner. get that solved get code and go from there. hope it is cmp cheap and easy to fix.

[bmzero]

I appreciate the advice, but the problem was fixed. Please see the two posts prior to your post.


.b

[markrhayward]

I had a similar problem and it took a long time to figure it out because it was so sporadic. Turned out the ICP harnes had a bad connector. Replaced it and it started right up. You might try it, It's located at the right front as your facing the truck. It's a sensor that screws into the head near the filter bowl, has a 3 prong connector.