I just joined this site and I too am having a cold start issue. Alternator, batteries,voltage drop, buzz test all good. The manual says test resistance between small posts on relay. 2.4 ohms,connected or unconnected makes no difference.Book says 5-15 is proper. On wait to start, there is voltage on one small post and the battery post and thats it. 60 seconds after initial "key on" there is good voltage on main post and now both small posts. Never voltage on other big post. Bad harness on one bank? Plug it in for a while and it always starts in under 2 seconds and runs smooth as glass. Using a good fuel additive makes the smooth part happen. Any ideas?
I just joined this site and I too am having a cold start issue. Alternator, batteries,voltage drop, buzz test all good. The manual says test resistance between small posts on relay. 2.4 ohms,connected or unconnected makes no difference.Book says 5-15 is proper. On wait to start, there is voltage on one small post and the battery post and thats it. 60 seconds after initial "key on" there is good voltage on main post and now both small posts. Never voltage on other big post. Bad harness on one bank? Plug it in for a while and it always starts in under 2 seconds and runs smooth as glass. Using a good fuel additive makes the smooth part happen. Any ideas?
What the book is telling you to check is the coil resistance in the GPR. Also the reason that you don't have voltage on the second small post with the key on is that the PCM supplies a ground to that post to energize the relay. Now with only voltage to one large post and never to the second one I would say that you have a bad GPR. If you want to check it in the morning just turn the key on and jump the two large post with some jumper cables or a pair of pliers for about 30 seconds and then try and start your truck. Just be ready for some good sparks the glow plugs will pull up wards of 200 amps. If you need a new relay NAPA stocks a GPR 109 for about $35.00 that will work. A lot of the members here have gone with a heavy duty industrial type of relay. It is a Stancor 586-902, just Google it if you decide to go that way and where to buy it on line.
Thanks Bugman, Im guessing you are correct the power port on the drivers side works,but the cig lighter port in the ashtray has been dead for months.I don't use that one so I wasn't worried about changing the fuse.Will take a look at that one tomorrow then hopefully be able to check codes.
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97 F-350 crew cab 4x4, 7.3, swapped from auto to ZF 5speed with Luk single mass flywheel.4inch down pipe, muffler delete,285,000 miles on clock.
May sound obvious,but when was the last time you replaced the starter,mine had same mileage and the starter just turned it over a little to slow,now wih new starter I'm at 318000 miles, you also changed out your cam sensor,they had a recall,most just go completely out(know a guy that rebuilt engine then found out about sensor!),mine was intermittent
Hey Russ,Replaced starter and batteries a little less than 2 years ago.I am going out tomorrow to replace the cig lighter port fuse and check the battery connections.also going to check voltage at GP relay for voltage drop and give the connections another look.I replaced the cps about 6 months ago.
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97 F-350 crew cab 4x4, 7.3, swapped from auto to ZF 5speed with Luk single mass flywheel.4inch down pipe, muffler delete,285,000 miles on clock.
Hey Guys,
Went out today when i got a dry spell (its raining alot here rite now) and replaced the
fuse for the cig lighter port.Tried to pull codes with scanner and found no codes stored.Checked the HPOP res. and found the plug so tight I was afraid to strip out the allen hole.I opted to remove the sensor, which came out much easier with the proper size wrench.Found the oil level about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the lid,which I have read on this site is around the proper level.Upon checking the glow plug relay that I replaced a few months ago, when this problem started and found 12.59 volts at one large terminal with key off.Turned key and watched wait to start light come on.Had my lovely wife turn the key for me while checking with my digital meter and did not here relay click like normal,and found no voltage passing through relay.Disconnected small wires and found proper voltage to relay.Ohmed out relay coil and found it open indicating bad relay.Checkd fuse #22 under hood in case I needed to purchase that while getting new GPR.Found fuse okay,so purchased new relay,and installed it.Hit the key and the truck fired from dead cold condition,on all eight cylinders.So either the bad UVC harnesses and melted gasket/bad glowplugs,fried my new relay,or the relay failed shortly after I put it in.Anyway I want to thank all of you who replied to me ,and gave me all the info.In the end it was your contributions of time and knowledge that fixed my truck.There isn't one member of my family that doesn't love this truck,and I think I,d be lynched if I even talked about selling it.Thanks again to you all.
Randy
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97 F-350 crew cab 4x4, 7.3, swapped from auto to ZF 5speed with Luk single mass flywheel.4inch down pipe, muffler delete,285,000 miles on clock.
Last edited by Bassman4461; 11-22-2009 at 07:45 PM.
Check the cigarette lighter fuse. That fuse powers the OBDII connector and most likely the scanner.
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2010 Ram 3500 Cummins, AT, 4x4, CC, LB, Line-X, B&W Turn Over Ball, RBW Lil Rocker modified to fit B&W, Milemarker hyd. winch. Elkhorn 9VS slide-in, Nomad 24 ft. fifth/w slide, Century topper, old classic Sooner 18' 4 horse stock trailer. StarFlyte by DynaMax 6.8 V10.
Formerly: 97 F-250 SC LB PSD. 4x4, With lots of Goodies. Twas a good truck. If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.
Larry
Hey Larry,
Thanks for the reply,but as I stated in my last post, I replaced the fuse and the scanner worked.There just wasn't any codes stored as if everything was fine.After replacing the defective new glow plug relay,everything seems fine now and truck starts and runs well.Thanks again for everyone's help in resolving my starting issue.
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97 F-350 crew cab 4x4, 7.3, swapped from auto to ZF 5speed with Luk single mass flywheel.4inch down pipe, muffler delete,285,000 miles on clock.
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