I have a 1997 7.3L Power Stroke that I am looking to configure it to pull a 29' Trailer/Camper behind it. What upgrades do people suggest that I do with respect to:
Air Intake/Filter?
Power Chip/Switch?
Transmission Cooler?
Other suggestions?
Also - anyone know where I can buy the brackets that bolt the springs to the frame at the rear of the truck? From what I hear it is common for these to deteriorate and they need to be replaced.
First of all, Welcome to TDS!!! Sounds like you have a great beginning list of mods, but you are missing a good set of gauges. Gauges such as a boost, tranny temp, and most importantly, an EGT gauge can save your truck from disaster! A good intake is a Tymar intake, or do as I and many others have done and make your own! Also, your exhaust definitely needs to be upgraded before any power adder is installed. The factory downpipe was designed for "fit" rather than "flow", so pick up a good round downpipe and that will help the air get out faster! I can't advise you to remove your catalytic converter but mine fell off and I haven't hurried to replace it! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] A good chip is DP Tuner and Jody has some awesome tow tunes, also, I hear Tony Wildman is also a top notch powerstroke tuner! A transmission cooler is definitely in order if you tow often, but I don't have an auto tranny so I can't advise you what else to do there, but I'm sure the other guys will chime in soon about what's best for you! I have used www.itpdiesel.com for all my powerstroke mods, and Dennis (the owner) is a great guy and will help you get what you want and need to make that Powerstroke pull that camper like there is no tomorrow! Again, Welcome to TDS!!!!! If you have any more questions, we will be glad to help!
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...John...
1994.5 powerstroke F-350 Reg. Cab. 5 Speed 2WD DRW 4.10, Oxford White, Cab and Chassis converted to electric over hydraulic dump bed. Diy Aic, switched 10k mod, Diy exhaust brake (great help), Autometer Boost and Pyro gauges. DIY tymar. 3" downpipe. No exhaust after downpipe...hehehe... Dp-tuner F5, No Start, Stock, 40 Tow, 80 Eco
Invest heavily in good torque converter - it'll save you later. Also add shift kit for stronger shifts which reduce temp's. As for tranny cooler, I'm not sure what aftermarket oversized unit I have but it's not enough in AZ. In order for me to install intercooler, I had to move trans coolr behind condensor which makes it 3rd inline for cooling after the intercooler & condensor. Already I'm seeing 220* going down highway unloaded. I'm going to add remote cooler from Flex-a-lite (PN 45951; check <font color="blue">here). </font> I hope this gets my temp under control.
As for other mods, I agree getting the truck to breath better is #1. Start with higher flow exhaust & intake before you add "power" items such as chip, turbo, injectors, etc.
Good luck!
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1997 F350 7.3L PSD; LB; SRW; Crew cab; RSK with dual front Bilstein shocks; Banks PowerPack; E40D with BadBoy converter & shift kit; 3" DP with 3.5" back; Airlift air bags; Mag-Hytec diff/trans covers; Power Slot rotors; Flex-a-Lite remote trans cooler; Tymar intake & CCV mod; SPDiesel SSEBTC controller; B&W turn-over ball & Companion 5th wheel hitch.
Homepage: http://community.webshots.com/user/rmrusten1
The best you can get for your $$ is getting your intake, exhaust, TQ and guages from Dale @ Tymar.. web page and the best man for for your chip is Tony wildman.. web page
Cary
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95 f250 4x4 xlt Excab Lb. white, BTS Trans, 4.10ls, Dana 60, ORU RS kit DR 4"front 5" reas springs!, Bilsteins, Centerline 18x9", 37" Toyo MT's,H2e, Tapercore IC,3" Billet intakes, Tymar 4" exhaust,intake and HX mod,Beans 2's, Stealth and Fuel system and DI studs, JS's IDM mod, TW 4 pos chip,TSM Rear Disks, 198k miles.
2004 EB 4x4 6.0 X born 05/18/04
white, LS,premier group, tow package, dvd. centerline 18x9" w/ 35" Toyo MT's, Edge 4.5" Lift, V's & custom B codes 37k miles 3rd turbo 6 5150 Specialy valved Bilsteins!
1976 EB Exploration daily driver
1971 EB Hard Core Crawler
2006 Yamaha FJR1300
2005 Suzuki King Quad
Here is what I am looking at so far... Any Concerns?
Diamond Eye T-409 S.S. Turbo Back Exhaust (retains factory catalytic converter)
Polished T-304 S.S. Angle Cut Rolled Lip 5" Tip
AFE Stage II Intake Kit with ProGuard 7 Filter
AFE Pre-Filter Sock
(Choice of Yellow, Black or Blue for Pre-Filter)
AFE Cleaning Kit
5 Position DP-Tuner Chip (Anti-Theft / Stock / 40hp Tow / 60hp Tow / 80hp Economy)
(Choice of Green, Red or Blue for Chip Display)
$1249.95 Shipped Ground
Installation of an Exhaust Temperature Gauge HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
"AutoMeter Z-Series DIY Gauge Kit"
The DIY kit will be the pillar pod, gauges, installation hardware
(wiring, connectors, boost parts, etc.) and interior match paint
[Ford color charts only go back to 2002 so we don't have quite the ability to match the interior color
on those as we do on the new ones...but we can get close.]
You can get a 6.0 tranny cooler for about the cheepest and it work great. many people run these and have great luck. I have one and havent seen over 180* on the tranny gauge
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1995 F-350, Auto (stock), 4x4, Crewcab, Longbed, 4" superlift, 35" BFG's All Terrains, E12000 Milemarker Winch, 5" miter stacks, 160cc Injectors, Shimmed FPR, Tymar Intake, Tyamr HPX, 7.3L Intercooler , 6.0L Tranny Cooler(Thanks Jon), ISSPRO Guages Trany/Boost/Pyro, Built tranny in garage being built.
I've watched Ebay for several months now and haven't seen one go for less than $200. I made bookmarks Ebay search #1, and Ebay search #2 that I used to do quick searches.
The pans really don't cool the fluid, they just make it take longer to heat up. For most people driving 1-2 hours, this makes it look on the gauge like the pan is cooling the fluid. But if you drive for 8-10 hours, you'll see that it still heats up just as much. More fluid takes more heat to reach the same temperature.
Like the difference between heating a cup of tea Vs. a full teakettle. Both have the same fluid, and both have the same heat source. But one has more fluid and a larger container. Which one takes longer to heat up? The tea kettle. But if you watch the temperatures side by side, it looks like the tea kettle is cooling the water.
I'm researching the Transmission Cooler and found info about this one (True-Cool 4590). Anyone have any thoughts good or bad on this compared to the Ford Powerstroke 6.0 L EGR cooler kit?
As you probably know the Ford Powerstroke 6.0 L EGR cooler kit is not a cheap purchase, especially compared to the True Cool 4590.
Description: Long 4590, True Cool Transmission Oil Cooler is a stacked plate design (like a radiator) instead of a tube/fin style.* Tube/fin coolers are horribly inefficient. With a stacked plate cooler you will get 40% more efficiency for the same size. You also need to be a little careful when comparing coolers. GVWR ratings are kind of misleading and you are better off comparing BTU ratings since that is the actual heat transfer that takes place. Another way is to compare similar coolers*by size as long as they are the same type. The Tru-Cool 4590 is 11" x 11" x 1.5" and is rated at 24,000 BTU (28K GVWR).
Tymar Performance: $74.75 (Prefer not to buy from EBay)
On EBAY: Buy It Now - US $74.95
This is a brand NEW "Long True Cool Transmission Oil Cooler." This is a high quality cooler that is made to OEM specs. This cooler is 11" x 11" x 1-1/2" in size and is for up to a 28,000 lb. vehicle. This is a stacked type cooler plate cooler that is a Low Pressure Drop design unit. This give a better flow, less restrictive than other brands.
This kit comes with the cooler, hoses, and mounting hardware. (11/32" hose barb)
I installed the Tru Cool 4590 on my '97 PSD after hitting temps. of 225F with the stock cooler while pulling a fairly small load. I chose to remove the stock cooler, but some guys run them in series. Since installing the Tru Cool, I haven't topped 200F even in mountainous terrain towing 8Klbs. I'm very pleased with it.
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1997 F-250 XLT, 7.3 PSD, 4WD, Super Cab, LWB, Warn manual hubs, 203 thermostat, 4.10 LSD, Jasper remanufactured E40D at 138,000, Factory Tech valve body, Stage II injectors, AFE intake, Bilsteins, Bully Dog 4-Position chip, 3" downpipe, 4" MagnaFlow exhaust, AutoMeter guages, 265's on stock wheels, Tru-Cool 4590.
Unless you like the "bling" why goe with a AFE and the Diamond Eye exhaust [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] Tymar intake and exhaust is much cheaper and cleans the air better. Why keep the Cat???
Still would recommend the TW chip [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Cary
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95 f250 4x4 xlt Excab Lb. white, BTS Trans, 4.10ls, Dana 60, ORU RS kit DR 4"front 5" reas springs!, Bilsteins, Centerline 18x9", 37" Toyo MT's,H2e, Tapercore IC,3" Billet intakes, Tymar 4" exhaust,intake and HX mod,Beans 2's, Stealth and Fuel system and DI studs, JS's IDM mod, TW 4 pos chip,TSM Rear Disks, 198k miles.
2004 EB 4x4 6.0 X born 05/18/04
white, LS,premier group, tow package, dvd. centerline 18x9" w/ 35" Toyo MT's, Edge 4.5" Lift, V's & custom B codes 37k miles 3rd turbo 6 5150 Specialy valved Bilsteins!
1976 EB Exploration daily driver
1971 EB Hard Core Crawler
2006 Yamaha FJR1300
2005 Suzuki King Quad