IMO just get a Tymar..its really not worth the few $$ you save trying to do it yourself, your time has got to be worth something. If you want to do it ..many posts ..search DIY Tymar.
Chip...only one best... thats Tony Wildman..and when you decide to mod further...never a reburn charge!
Cary
__________________
95 f250 4x4 xlt Excab Lb. white, BTS Trans, 4.10ls, Dana 60, ORU RS kit DR 4"front 5" reas springs!, Bilsteins, Centerline 18x9", 37" Toyo MT's,H2e, Tapercore IC,3" Billet intakes, Tymar 4" exhaust,intake and HX mod,Beans 2's, Stealth and Fuel system and DI studs, JS's IDM mod, TW 4 pos chip,TSM Rear Disks, 198k miles.
2004 EB 4x4 6.0 X born 05/18/04
white, LS,premier group, tow package, dvd. centerline 18x9" w/ 35" Toyo MT's, Edge 4.5" Lift, V's & custom B codes 37k miles 3rd turbo 6 5150 Specialy valved Bilsteins!
1976 EB Exploration daily driver
1971 EB Hard Core Crawler
2006 Yamaha FJR1300
2005 Suzuki King Quad
does the tymar just replace the stock air filter or get clamped on right at the turbo? also i heard dptuner was the best for the powerstroke, ive never heard of tony wildman.
Click the AIR FILTER link in my signature to see what I did and a picture of the finished product. If you look at the comments it will tell you what I used. Been there going on 7 years with no issues so far.
If you want to see what happened when I did mine on an otherwise stock engine, click THIS LINK to go to the archived thread I did when testing mine.
I also would opt for the TYMAR, the original and still best in my opinion. For the difference the installation is more professional looking.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
what about this 10k mod ive heard about ive seen it posted on this site before but know nothing about it or how to hook it up.
Quick directions for the basic 10k mod that I got online somewhere long ago, not sure where so I cannot credit.
Quote:
10k resistor mod – First, remove the black cover in the center of the engine that say's "Turbo Diesel". Next, identify the fuel filter bowl. Then the regulator on the right of the fuel bowl. On the regulator is the Shraeder valve, that looks like a tire valve stem. About 3 inches from the valve, is the IPC sensor, on the front of the driver's side cylinder head. It has three wires going into it. You will then unplug that connector, find which wire has 5 volts (mine was 4.97 according to my multimeter) and put the resistor so it connects between the other two wires. You are not cutting any of the wires! You are just using the resistor as a "jumper" of sorts.
Toptuner did a modified version described below and posted in a thread here long ago (long since archived), cut and pasted from that thread. I did this one and put a switch in the cab to turn it on and off. I saw some difference on an otherwise stock engine but have not flipped the switch on in a couple years so that tells you my temperment with regard to go fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toptuner
OK, I've finally come up with a sensor-safe modification of my modified 10K mod.
The problem with the original clamp circuit, a 470ohm resistor and
three diodes in series connected from the ICP sensor output to ground, was potential damage to the sensor due to overloading when it senses
maximum pressure when backing down from full throttle at high RPM. Without access to the sensor specs I thought it better to err on the safe side than take any chance of turning your Ford into F.O.R.D.
I'm basing this redesign on the fact that lots of guys have run the 10K mod probably for years, some with even lower value resistors, and, to my knowledge, no one has reported a sensor problem. The new circuit
actually produces less sensor load than the 10K mod.
The bad news is that we have to cut the wire from the sensor to insert
the series resistor which protects the sensor. The good news is that
sensor-safe clamp (#2) works just as good at idle, not affecting it at all, and measurably better (9.9s) in my 0-60 tests. (9.9s is the same time my SCMT ran on +70 HP). Note that programmers and chips can also change automatic transmission shift schedules, my circuit can't.
Parts list, as available at Radio Shack:
1 5.6K 1/2W resistor # 271-1125, (could be 1/4W)
1 1.0K 1/4W resistor # 271-1321
3 1N4001 diodes # 276-1101
1 pkg heat-shrink tubing # 278-1627
I recommend all connections be done by soldering and heat-shrink tubing be used on all exposed wires. Connect the 1K resistor and the three diodes in series with the banded ends of the diodes in the same direction. (If you made the 470ohm version, replace the 470 with the 1K.)
------ 1K -------->|-------->|-------->|--------
Locate the ICP sensor "output to PCM" wire, it's either BLU/GRN or
BLU/RED.
(If you unlatch the connector from the sensor and look at the
connector, it will be the center pin.) This is the wire you'll be cutting, so I recommend untaping the plastic conduit and pulling the wires out for more working room. If you're neat about it you can make the cut under the conduit for a "who me?" hiding job. Cut the wire and connect the 5.6K resistor in series.
(The resistor does nothing by itself so it can stay in permanently even if you remove the rest of the circuit later.)
Connect the 1K end of the 1K/diodes circuit to the PCM end (not the ICP sensor end) of the 5.6K resistor. Solder.
The banded end of the third diode connects to ground. If you connect it at the sensor, use the GRY/RED wire. (You will not be connecting to the BRN/WHT (5volt) wire.) You may also add a Clamp/Stock switch instead. If so, attach a length of wire to the end diode and run it thru the firewall to an SPST switch in the cab. (I've seen "customer use" wires dead-ended under the dash and hood that could be used.) Connect the other switch terminal to a frame ground under the dash. To find out which position of the switch is ON or OFF, push that pedal under your right foot down and flip the switch.
You'll know!
The installation on this circuit a little more complex, but I guarantee it'll put a smile on your face and keep your ICP sensor happy too!
toptuner
I hope this helps out.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
this forum has been alot more helpful so far compared to diesel power mag.
Glad to be of service.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
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