Add-a-leaf, bushings and alignment - Diesel Forum

94strokerace · 03-06-2006, 09:06 PM

My buddy and I are sore but I'm glad we did the add-a-leaf install and replaced the spring eye bushings (that was fun) Sat. Sun I replaced the the draglink, inner tie rod, both outer tie rod ends and installed dual steering stabilizers, followed by an alignment and two new BFGs in the front today. I like the new stance it has now and the ride has certainly improved. The steering is much better as well. I recommend the add-a-leaf to anyone experiencing the "saggy front end" appearance, you wont be sorry (unless your looking for a dramatic lift) and you dont compromise the ride quality doing it. Just stock up on the muscle ache relief cream of you choice the night before, you will need it.

PSDfreak · 03-06-2006, 09:10 PM

any pics of the dual stabalizer setup?

94strokerace · 03-06-2006, 09:14 PM

No pics, dont have the toys to do so. Sorry. I can share w/ you where I purchased it and some particulars if you wish.

Groves · 03-06-2006, 10:55 PM

I think we'd all love the blow-by-blow account of what you did, what was hard, and where the muscles got sore. What equipment you had to borrow. What you wish you had if you did it all over again. What you didn't need that you thought you would, etc.

All details are great for us about to take the plunge.

PSDfreak · 03-06-2006, 11:45 PM

I have done the front bushings (all of them) what a PITA with that TTB axle...I still have all the rears to do and I think the concensus is to use a bumper jack to lift the truck off of the springs....Dont have one...need to find one unless you or someone else has another idea...

-Casey

1994F350PSD4x4CC · 03-07-2006, 08:23 AM

Usa a hi lift tractor jack if they lify our deeres they'll lift your truck

94strokerace · 03-07-2006, 08:27 AM

Will have time for greater detail this afternoon/evening, didnt want to bore anyone unless requested. Stay tuned.

Groves · 03-07-2006, 09:45 AM

Waiting with baited breath and Advil on the ready!

94strokerace · 03-07-2006, 09:46 PM

OK, as requested and promised. If at all possible, use a vehicle lift. That would make this job 10 times easier and would probably eliminate any sore joints, but, back to the real world, most home mechanics can only dream of that, so the next best thing is a willing buddy. What I found fatiguing was the repeated get up, lay down, roll around and so on, not to mention the nuts that you have to break free have been on for 12 years. Surprisingly I had all the tools, and you probably do too, that I needed to get the job done but did wish I had a press to get out the spring eye bushings (the hardest part for me) The instructions supplied w/ the kits work, readable and make sense, follow them and you will claim success. Also, start soaking the u-bolt nuts, spring eye bushing bolts and shackle bolts w/ a good penetrating oil a couple times a day for a couple of days before you begin.

You will need a floor jack, and jack stands. Jack up the frame just behind the front tire and support w/ the stands. I had to use a couple pieces of spare wood to build up height because the stands are too short. On to the front of the truck, support the front axle either to the right or left of the u-bolts, w/ the floor jack. You can use a bottle jack at this point..I chose a floor jack 'cause it collapses more than my bottle, creating more work room in the wheel well. Keep in mind that the closer you place the jack to the u-bolts the tougher you make it on yourself when you fight the u-bolt nuts. With a 1/2 drive pull handle and deep 13/16 socket and a 2' piece of pipe, break loose the u-bolt nuts, spring eye bolts. Once broke, finish up w/ a ratchet. You can leave the shock and the shock mount plate alone, its not in the way. Adjust the floor jack until the springs are straight, less tension to fight at the straight position. Remove all bolts, u-bolts. You really need a buddy here, to get out the bolts you need to support a heavy, cumbersome spring pack and be able to twist all kinds of ways to drive them out. Watching the brake line, drag out the spring pack and place on a suitable, sturdy table or floor. Now w/ a 15/16 socket and pull bar (pipe and all) remove the forward shackle. On the leaf pack, I had to grind off the rivet that holds a piece off plate, twisted loosely around the springs on the forward end. Me thinks this keeps the springs together. On the eyes, I drilled thru holes, many holes around the sleeve then drive out the sleeve, finish by grabbing the remaining rubber w/ needle nose vice grips, leaving another sleeve that we cut w/ a reciprocating saw (sawz all) then drive a screwdriver in between the eye and the sleeve splitting the sleeve. Follow the directions w/ the poly bushing install. The rest is straight forward, pretty much reverse. The new 7/16 bolt supplied w/ the leaf kit(this bolt goes thru the center of all springs) uses a nut that wont fit in the axle hole nor the shock plate hole. We ground the nut down to fit and used vice grips to turn till tight while the c-clamp had all the springs drawn down tight together.

Upon reinstall, watch the hole in the axle to be sure you line up the spring alignment stud. We found it easy to install loosely the forward shackle on the spring then align the shackle to the truck. On the back use a bottle jack directly under the spring to align w/ the rear shackle. The new bushings w/ the grease provided slip into place easily. The right side was a little more challenging because the front drive shaft made the axle rigid making it difficult to realign the axle to the spring, a long pry bar made quick work of that.

The new spring caused my camber (or caster, I get them confused) to go out 3*, an immediate alignment is in order.

I hope this helps, like I say the directions supplied do work. This was my experience and is not to be considered the "best way" but it worked for me.

BTW, outside of ordinary hand tools, I used an angle grinder, sawz all, 1/2 drill motor, c-clamp, bench grinder w/ a wire wheel (to clean up the threads on the u-bolts and spring eye bolts), a long piece of pipe, heavy hammer, anti-sieze and scrap wood.

Its not hard, just physically demanding. Good luck!

ryanPSD · 03-07-2006, 11:44 PM

Wow, that is awesome. Thank you for the time on writing that up!

When I fix my D50 I am looking at doing add-a-leafs, and all poly bushings on the front end at the same time. I'll keep everyone posted!

mikel · 03-08-2006, 10:14 AM

This sounds like something that my truck could use, where did you pick up the new spring?

Thanks,
Mike

94strokerace · 03-08-2006, 06:04 PM

Purchased the spring kit from JCW (Tuff Country brand) and the bushings from Energy Suspension.

Rick Thielmann · 03-08-2006, 07:33 PM

Get a small steel wedge like they use to split rocks, or a welder uses to align things. Tap wedge into the spring eye where it loops back onto the flat part of the spring, The Wedge will spread the eye enough that the bushing and its sleeve will slide out.

94strokerace · 03-08-2006, 09:29 PM

I see how that would work, it'll all come out in one piece. Good idea Rick. Wished I knew that before I tackled this job or had access to a press. Those bushings were the hardest part of the whole deal.

F250Jockey · 03-08-2006, 11:05 PM

I just changed the shackle bushings and put an Add-a-Leaf kit in my truck today. You're right, removing those old bushings is a major PITA!

Those U-Bolts will wear you out also!

I noticed on that on the back half of my leaf springs, there is a U-channel type clamp that has a bolt through the top, and a pin through the bottom.

Anyway, that thing won't work with the Add-a-Leaf kit, or it doesn't have a hole in it.

Has anyone else ran into this?

Do I really need that U-channel clamp, or can I toss it?

Thanks! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]