ive been looking at throwin an i/c in my 95, on that install, do you use the stock pipes or are after markets reuquired? thanx for the info
__________________
1995 F250 Xcab 5spd 4x4. TYMAR, 5" Mitre Cut STACKS, Skyjacker lift, 35" Mud terrains, powered by Home made Bio Diesel, Cobalt C2 gauges, DIY INJECTORS by www.DIY-Injectors.com , 6 position chip by Fat Kid Performance Diesel(sn: house22), intercooler on the way within the next few weeks...
Combination of the two (Best of Both) by Yours Truly [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] : Click Here
Hope that helps!
God Bless,
TC
__________________
97 F350 XLT, 4x4, Toreador Red, CC, PSD, MLE0, ZF5, 3.55 l/s, LUK clutch,Velvet Rides, ISSPRO gauges, v/cover vented to tailpipe, DPPI downpipe - modded to 4" right below firewall seam, open element intake using Duralite filter, coolant filter mounted between washer fluid bottle and jack, gutted EBPV, 99+ I/C installed using early 99 Y-pipe and custom pipes, 4-pos chip, BigBopper Seat Mod, Bilsteins, 130cc injectors, homegrown 4" exhaust, uses 36" Magnaflow muffler (Model #12773 body is a full 30" long - nice and quiet!) Custom Fuel System using Carter electric pump, Aeromotive regulator and frame-mounted filters...
2003 Tahoe MS27TT (27' Lite travel trailer), Prodigy Brake Controller.
1991 5.0 LX, runs 12.57 @ 109 mph
My Intercooler/Fuel System Install Webpage (section on CCV Mod too): http://members.localnet.com/~boys3/
wow....that is awesome...looks like i'll try to purchase it and get started.
__________________
1995 F250 Xcab 5spd 4x4. TYMAR, 5" Mitre Cut STACKS, Skyjacker lift, 35" Mud terrains, powered by Home made Bio Diesel, Cobalt C2 gauges, DIY INJECTORS by www.DIY-Injectors.com , 6 position chip by Fat Kid Performance Diesel(sn: house22), intercooler on the way within the next few weeks...
I took my time so I could do things right (or as right as I knew [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] ) so it took one weekend to do the install of the i/c core. I painted up the fresh cut metal with Rustoleum (black) so the openings in the radiator support wouldn't rust. Then I painted up all the brackets I fabbed up too. I also took the time to get all the sheet metal and bumper lined up nice and even too.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
It took the better part of another weekend to fabricate the pipes. Welding the retaining rings on the ends of the pipe sections was time consuming, as was grinding all the welds. I struggled with burn through a number of times on the first welded connection, getting the MIG set and establishing a welding pattern that worked, SO... I ended up doing some grinding of that weld inside the pipe where I filled holes! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] All seems to have paid off. I have yet to blow a coupler off, even since upgrading injectors!
I haven't updated my webpage but I reconstructed the last section of the cold-side pipe to accommodate the Souper Dooty oil fill extention pipe on the valve cover.
I found that even with the hottest burns on the chip, with stock injectors I never saw much more than 1,050 degrees pre-turbo with the i/c installed, so I don't know that the i/c was absolutely necessary with stockers. (Hated to admit that to Dale I.... cuz he told me so!) I'm not sure how guys are getting by with modded injectors and no i/c, unless they don't tow... Our 350 is for hauling the travel trailer so we do work it hard and load it good!
I didn't look at your sig., but if you are considering modded injectors and you tow, the i/c would certainly be worth it.
Yes, towing is why i am going to the IC side. I had my truck camper (2,245lbs) for the first time a few months back and the EGTs got up to high and had to back out of it. My next trip will be with the truck camper and my rock crawler on a 18' trailer (about 6000lbs). I know I will need it for sure just with my chip. When I go with the injectors, definitely.
Jeff, I noticed your truck is 4x2. If you use a 6.0 intercooler you will have to first drop your sway bar 4" and use that to determine the mounting location for the intercooler. Check out the pics in my sig-I also built my own brackets and pipes out of some 6.0 pipes and a L.side SD pipe. I used an early '99 y-pipe.
The early '99 y-pipe is a real quick bolt on part. If you think about it, though, a y-pipe is easy to build if you have the stock y and some leftover pieces of tubing. I actually built one for a fellow member, no word yet on how it worked. A chop saw and small mig welder is cheaper than an intercooler install kit, plus you get to keep the tools!!
Just looked at your pics, nice fab work and routing on the pipes! It looks like having the sections of 6.0 pipe allowed you to do the cold side with much fewer splices that I did!
I have never seen a 6.0 cooler in person... did you cut off vertical ears off of the top mounts? I thought the mounting was the same on
both versions of the cooler...
Thanks, oh and again, nice work!
Jeff - Looks like you have plenty of examples to work from... and you'll probably do your just a little different from everyone else!
I have never seen a 6.0 cooler in person... did you cut off vertical ears off of the top mounts? I thought the mounting was the same on
both versions of the cooler...
Thanks, oh and again, nice work!
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, the vertical ears were the same, but they were in my way for how I needed the ic to fit in my truck. Those rubber bushings are shock absorber bushings, I used nylock nuts so I didn't have to tighten them too much. I also ended up using those through-radiator style zip ties to attach the trans cooler to the ic. All in all it was a fairly easy job-but I wish I would have done the sway bar brackets first.
[ QUOTE ]
Jeff, I noticed your truck is 4x2. If you use a 6.0 intercooler you will have to first drop your sway bar 4" and use that to determine the mounting location for the intercooler. Check out the pics in my sig-I also built my own brackets and pipes out of some 6.0 pipes and a L.side SD pipe. I used an early '99 y-pipe.
[/ QUOTE ]
Sniperonhigh are you say that the 7.3L IC is a little smaller and you don't have to drop the sway bar down?
__________________
Thanks
Todd
AKA Toad
1995 Ford F250 7.3L, auto stock 390,000mi, filler neck Mod, 3" DP with test pipe (no cat!), Fumoto oil drain valve, BDP Stage I Injectors, Tymar Intake, DB Electrical High Torque Starter
1965 Ford Mustang Fastback 289 4bbl 75,000mi
1988 Honda CRX Si 1.6L stock
1988 Honda CRX 1.5L stock
1990 Honda CRX 1.5L stock
1991 Honda CRX 1.5L stock
1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic
1981 Honda GL500
1995 F350 7.3L Parts Truck