I am trying to come up with a plan to install a moderately loud/good sounding system in my truck (with sub(s).Does anybody have ideas,that still allow use of the back seat or have you done it to your truck? just looking for ideas or suggestions, thanks
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'96 F-250 supercab 4WD, 4"exhaust,kitty kitty?, banks downpipe,Tymar 4 pos chip, 3pod "A" pillar, tymar intake,EXH brake, WVO converted, leveler kit, 261K and strong, alloy 16's with 285/75's
Im droping 100 pounds of Raammat, with some ensolite on top, And going with two 12's 1500 watt amp, and not too sure on speakers..
Im planning to put them under the bench seat (x-cab), By lifting it up 5 inchs (only allowing short people to sit three) but i found it was the best way for me..
What did you have in mind ?
__________________ 1996 F250 X-cab SB, zf-5, open element intake, tymar 3-4" DP, 4inch dual DE exhuast,gutted EBPV,MidWest Shortshift kit, DP-tuner chip,Gauges,
sounds, with a bunch of rammat and ensolite in the cab.
1997 f250 longbed xcab,zf-5, 4inch lift with 18 inch wheels and mickey thompsons
Motor all stock for now..
1994 f250 with a custom dump/flatbed heavy duty winch up front, 7.3 idi, None turbo...
I replaced my factory speakers with good ones. I upgraded fronts and rear with a little larger. 6" round in the front and 6x9 in the rear. You need to trim some mettal to get them to fit nice, but it is worth it IMO.
I also bought a center console that is a sub box. This thing is the coolest. It has a 12" mtx which is more than enough for the cab.
I have a polk 4 ch amp. Fronts on one ch rears on two. 3+4 are bridged for the sub. It will not make you deaf, but the sound is very high quality. If I wanted louder I can get a larger amp or bump the gain, but them you get some garbage to the speakers which they do not like.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I have the plan to replace all the speakers in the truck. Now as for bass I don't want to go big nor do I have the room for it. So I plan to buy this. Which I have found in the low 200$ and its depth of under 7" will fit behind my reg cab seats. As far as replacing the factory speakers they are loud enough and the bass they make shakes the mirrors now.
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1997 F-250 PSD, 130k, 4x4, Outlaw E4ODX, Standard Cab, reg bed, 3.55 LS rear, Swamps 225/146 injectors, Autometer Guages Pyro/Boost/Tranny, 3" downpipe, 3.5" adjusted exhaust, ts 6 pos chip, Tonys fun programs, Tru-Cool H7B, 285/75, factory alum rims, Western V-Plow, 6.0 intercooler installed not plumbed
I wish my lawn was Emo, cause then it would cut itself
Racerxautomotive.com for your upgraded E4OD/4R100 needs
The factory speakers are terrible. Maybe someone already replaced them. It isnot that much work to get 6" in the doors. I just used a air hack saw to cut tabs to bend out of the way. You need to use new self tapper screws and everything lines up nice. No modding of door trip at all.
Basically the same on the rear. The magnet of the speaker will touch the metal.
The center console I got from a stereo shop in Bozeman MT. Avitale
They had a special on them that day.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I installed a Pioneer head unit with tuner and single cd player
an adaptor for my Ipod (over 450 songs) an Eclipse 4000 amp
and 4 new Eclipse speakers in all the stock locations, plus a sirius box, etc......its not
a boom-boom system, but crisp as a new dollar bill, I like quality over quantity, and with the windows up on a good rock song I cant stand to turn it up over 45 on a 60 scale...
I dont like hearing others peoples music at intersections, so I dont force my music on them...."most of the time"
think I got about $1200 in the whole thing including install and
warranties...
__________________ #14
1997 F350 CC 4x4 Auto
a little over 400 at the rear wheels
thanks to Wildman, Bean, Cass, Luke and Visa
Do you have 40/20/40 front seat? Ive noticed that there is a lot of unused space under the center section of mine that I have contempated utalizing for something like a sub speaker. I havent poked around enough to see if it would be a mission to take the seat out or not, but its an idea to check out. When I put my head unit in it was obivous that there was no room in the dash for an amp, so if you are def putting in an amp your probably going to be under the seats anyway.
I agree that if your the kind of guy thats not afraid to spend money on your stereo and your speakers sound fine then the odds are really really good that the factory ones have already been replaced. It only takes 10 minutes to pull the door panel. I did it once in the middle of a road trip and it wasn't a toughie. FYI I found that the silly factory speakers were anchored in with torx head screws so I had to nix the idea of upgrading speakers mid trip. If you pull the panel and find that you already have decent speakers you get the opportunity to wipe out the dust caking up the speaker cover that you can not get at from the front.
You can throw a lot of cash at a nice amp but the speakers are always the weakest link.
I think you would be suprised how good a Pioneer 50wattx4 sounds with aftermarket speakers. You may nix the amp idea after you hear it. Most of the Pioneers are mosfet 22watts rms and push real good. In my other car I have a Pioneer head unit powering 2 10in speakers without an external amp and it does just fine.
In my truck I have one of the low cost Jensen DVD head units. Its got 13 watts rms (not mosfet) and is suprisingly clean up to full volume but full volume definatly leaves you wanting more.
I am not looking forward to the hassle of wiring a power amp though and that has kept me from doing it. I am really wishing I had just got a more powerful head unit. That would be my recommendation to you. If I was starting over that is what I would do.
Start with a powerful head unit and if you still want more volume then you are not really adding much work by adding the amp later.
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95 f350 crew cab. 236Kmi 4x4 K+N in chopped up stock box, 3.55 rear, 3" downpipe. Electric fans. No EBCV. 3K miles on 2 tank system heated veggie fuel.
84 mercedes 300sd 4000 miles on veggie blends.
My buddy had a supercab and pulled all the bottom seating bracketry out with the seat, left the back, built a box all the way accross to seat 4 12's and mounted the cushion back on the speaker box, might give your passengers a rattle but it was a sweet looking setup.
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