1997 F 350 4X4, idm mod, wide open performance GQSSB turbo, stage 2` s by bean` s, intercooler, 4" no muffler, stack, trans from brians truck shop rear, disk brakes, and a stecher stage 1 hpop 6 position chip with bean` s programs crane valae springs, air dog lift pump and electric fuel pump and regulatorand water methonal injection
I replaced mine with one from Napa and it broke again in just a couple weeks. I got one from Ford, which really wasn't that much more than the Napa one and that held up a lot better. Then I started having some issues that I had to yank on the handle a little extra to open the door so I figured the cable was getting stretched out, which was probably the entire problem to begin with, so I got that kit from Ford too because I couldn't find anyone else that offered the complete kit more than just the cable. You have to tear the whole assembly out of the door anyway so I was happy to replace the whole thing.
Those are nice looking. My only problem with building something that is stronger than the stock equipment is that you will eventually break the next weak link in the system. It turns into a domino effect until you get to the end of the loop.
96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
Looks positively Amish.... (and that's meant as a compliment; they're remarkable craftspeople....)
A stronger handle in this application is like a higher-capacity fuse to replace a blown one. Suppresses the symptoms temporarily, masks the cause. And as mentioned above, may just lead to more damage down the road.
If you have to pull hard enough to damage even a plastic handle, there's a problem elsewhere. The cable is stretched, the metal on the mounting/hinge point is fatigued, the latch and striker aren't aligned properly and are creating too much resistance, something like that.
I had to take door panel off to put new speakers in so I oiled everything up and door is working even better now. I will probably make two more door handles for the passenger side of the truck to match.
I replaced mine with another plastic handle and when that broke, I went to the chrome handle. Got it from a local parts store. They are from the 90-92 trucks. I also keep the linkage lubed to keep me from having to use more force than needed on the door handle.
1997 California F250HD 4x4 CC Short Bed, BTS E4OD, 4:10, Rickard Bumpers, 45 Gal Transferflow, Filler Neck Mod, DPS 3" Downpipe, 285/75/16 BFG KO, Warn XD9000 Winch, Garvin Roof Rack, PIAA Lights, Pullpal, Truck Cover USA Toolbox and Cover, Garmin GPS, 3 Pillar pod/gauges, 363k miles
I have replaced mine 3 times in 6 years, the last time the sheet metal was torn and broken as well. I used the liquid metal playdo stuff to rebuild the area and haven't had trouble since and that was 7 years ago
97 F250 X-CAB, LONGBED 4X4 w/ 38R and 5" SD Exhaust,DIY Tymar intake, hx hose, 203 stat, stage3 injectors, Beans Fuel system, Arp headstuds D60 w/Sky's rsk and shackle flip plus 4" lift springs, other mods include 5.13 gears arb front and detroit rear plus purple cranium products diff covers and gaurds, ATS s5 trans, bushwacker cutout flares and more to come.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.