Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and AftermarketUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.
Read many post on here recommending the Greenlee hole punch for the cab light install. Not on a OBS!! Unless I'm missing something, there is a double walled shelf in the roof. Anyone else that added cab lights to an OBS what did you use to drill the 7/8 hole? And is there room between the light base and the second panel for the harness to plug into the light, looks really close. Thanks
Read many post on here recommending the Greenlee hole punch for the cab light install. Not on a OBS!! Unless I'm missing something, there is a double walled shelf in the roof. Anyone else that added cab lights to an OBS what did you use to drill the 7/8 hole? And is there room between the light base and the second panel for the harness to plug into the light, looks really close. Thanks
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__________________ 1997 F-250 PSHD 4X4 Off Road CC SB 7.3L --211,000 miles, 3" Down pipe-4" straight exhaust to 6" tip, K&N Air Filter, EDGE-- EVO-3 Stage, Re-built E40D with shift kit (high flow oil line, heavy duty clutch plates)...gauges to come real soon!...other wise bone stock for now:evil
I've purchased cab lights and plan on adding them myself but haven't dropped the overhead liner. Is there some surprise waiting where I can't install these lights myself? Any heads up will be appreciated!
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95 F350, 7.3 PSD, CC, ZF5 speed, 4x4, Dually, Autometer EGT, Boost and Engine Temp Gauges, DP and 4 inch exhaust, Tymar Intake, CPR Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP
85 Ranger, 302, ZF5 speed, Klune-V, Dana 20, Explorer front and rear diffs, 35 inch TSLs, ARBs, Superwinch
No, I didn't find anything I didn't expect. I knew there would be a double panel or a shelf if you will, the shelf starts at the top of the windshield and extends back about 8"s. The shelf is open on the backside which allows the wiring to be run inside, now I'm just trying to figure out how I am going to drill the holes and also to see if there is enough room between the harness and the light to plug it in. I'll keep the post going as I do it of you can send me a private message
I've done this on my current 97 F350CC and a 1989 F250SC. Don't fool with the headliner, it doesn't need to be moved. Get a good industrial hole saw in the correct size and drill the holes. Don't get a cheap hole saw made for wood. Run the wiring between the outer roof and inner down the passenger side. Plenty of room for the wiring/plugs. Tricky part is getting the wiring down your windshiel pillar down to the passenger kick panel.
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1997 F350CC, 4x4, PSD Tipper pro kleenex open filter. Roggen 6" lift kit with 26" ratflex 12" offset tires. Downpipe cut and welded to adapt 3" into a 12" outlet. 12" muffler cut and adapted to 2", then a special turbo manifold from a volkswagon modified to flank out to 3" to the tail pipe. Interior from a Corvair modified by cutting 6" off the padding. Snize and snide 32gallon aux tank mounted in rear seat, rear seat relocated to bed. Bed shortened to 4ft.
__________________ 1997 F-250 PSHD 4X4 Off Road CC SB 7.3L --211,000 miles, 3" Down pipe-4" straight exhaust to 6" tip, K&N Air Filter, EDGE-- EVO-3 Stage, Re-built E40D with shift kit (high flow oil line, heavy duty clutch plates)...gauges to come real soon!...other wise bone stock for now:evil
__________________ 1997 F-250 PSHD 4X4 Off Road CC SB 7.3L --211,000 miles, 3" Down pipe-4" straight exhaust to 6" tip, K&N Air Filter, EDGE-- EVO-3 Stage, Re-built E40D with shift kit (high flow oil line, heavy duty clutch plates)...gauges to come real soon!...other wise bone stock for now:evil
Looks like those instructions are for the newer body style. No need to remove the headliner on our trucks with a CC or SC at least. Regular cab there was talk the headliner must be removed. Also you can buy the lamps, wiring and all mounting hardware through ford. No need for nylocks. Silicon sealer is not needed either. They won't leak.
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1997 F350CC, 4x4, PSD Tipper pro kleenex open filter. Roggen 6" lift kit with 26" ratflex 12" offset tires. Downpipe cut and welded to adapt 3" into a 12" outlet. 12" muffler cut and adapted to 2", then a special turbo manifold from a volkswagon modified to flank out to 3" to the tail pipe. Interior from a Corvair modified by cutting 6" off the padding. Snize and snide 32gallon aux tank mounted in rear seat, rear seat relocated to bed. Bed shortened to 4ft.
Looks like those instructions are for the newer body style. No need to remove the headliner on our trucks with a CC or SC at least. Regular cab there was talk the headliner must be removed. Also you can buy the lamps, wiring and all mounting hardware through ford. No need for nylocks. Silicon sealer is not needed either. They won't leak.
Yes, you can buy the complete kit wire harness, led lights, lenses, etc. as a package I got mine from rencon and absolutely don't need any silicone, $70 for everything, http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?p...99-10&p_cat=28
I don't know what Ford price is? (mine are SD lights too) Yes, the write up is for the newer body style but it almost the exact same on our trucks aside from removing the overhead console on the front of the roof. I think dropping the headliner is the best way to do it, if you don't drop it you will just have metal shavings hanging out in your roof hanging out between the the roof and the additional roof lining reinforcement plate underneath the cab lights, but that is obviously to each his own on. Whatever floats your boat as they say. Plus, IMO its just a whole lot easier to run all the wiring where you want it and get your ground hooked up where you want it as well.
Good luck with the install and I hope that the input helped.
__________________ 1997 F-250 PSHD 4X4 Off Road CC SB 7.3L --211,000 miles, 3" Down pipe-4" straight exhaust to 6" tip, K&N Air Filter, EDGE-- EVO-3 Stage, Re-built E40D with shift kit (high flow oil line, heavy duty clutch plates)...gauges to come real soon!...other wise bone stock for now:evil
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