Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and AftermarketUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.
I decided to take on the cab mount bushings this past sunday. Not necessarily the best layed out plan, as I learned quickly. After a couple hours of frustration, I figured it was time to do a search here. I found out I needed to make a puller of some sort to get the sleeve/nut out or off. Sunday ended with one sleeve pulled and it was the "easiest" to access. Bad thing is, the sleeve/nut will not be usable again. That is ok though because I bought 1/2inch grade 8's to replace all the bolts since they're rusty anyway.
Today, I gave her hell and accomplished four of the six. However, here is where I need the help. The two front core support body mount bolts were rusted up bad, so I've shot PB Blaster for the past three days. Got the nuts off without breaking the bolts off. However, that is it, the bolts are still in the "sleeve". I think I read there is threads inside the sleeve, but I don't recall. The bolts turn easily enough, but I can't get them out. I have new bolts, so if I have to cut these off, I have no problem, but if they are threaded in the sleeve, where do I cut to get the bolts out?
The good thing about today was it only took 2.5hrs to get three nut/sleeves out, cab jacked, and four bushings replaced. I didn't tighten the bolts up since I haven't got the core supports left to do though.
Would appreciate any input on how to get this two bolts out.
Bret
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97 F250, 4x4, ext. cab., auto, 4:10LS, Turbo back 4" Stainless Diamons Eye exhaust, Autometer Ultra-Lite gauges, TYMAR intake (the real deal), TS Chip, Dual Tensioner mod, Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass with AMS-Oiler (pre-oiler), Amsoil throughout, D60 swap, and 246K miles (still ticking)
Stong supporter of all US Troops, their families, and all waiting for a safe return. Thank you, from a former soldier and his family
No responses? No worries. I took a wack at it this morning before work and cut the heads of the bolts off. Jacked the cab up a bit and pulled them out. Once the rubber bushing was off, I could see what was holding things up; rust, some rusty rust, and some carbonized stone like rust. End result was cutting off the base of the internal nut to get the shank of the bolt out.
Anyone else going after this task, plan ahead and make sure you have fashioned some sort of removal tool to get the base nuts off. Use either a 3in inside diameter pipe (ABS plastic, or metal), a chain looped under a jack screwed into the nut, or torch (not the best option, it may stink up the inside of the cab). Soak the nuts down with PB Blaster or other favorite break-free. Don't be stingy, soak them for two or three days before this project gets rolling to make it easier, really it helps. The core support nuts will be the worst to get off since you can't really get to at them easily. I chose not to remove any of the wheel well splash shield. Instead, I removed the batteries and used two extentions with a universal. Getting to the aft, driver side, cab mount, does not require droping the fuel tank. Remove the skid plate, loosen the retaining straps, remove the nut and bolt from the fwd strap and cargo strap the tank to the driveshaft. It doesn't take much to get it out of the way; you could use rope, bungees, or twine, if you don't have a cargo strap.
For those who can't find sizes of the bolts:
Position 1: Core support bolts are 7/16 by 14 thread and 3-3/4inches long
Position 2: Forward cab mount bolts are 7/16 - 14 and 3-3/4 inches long (4in long replacement bolts will work too if there is enough threads)
Position 3: Aft cab mount bolts, are 7/16 - 14 and about 7 inches long.
The cab mount bolts were 5/8 socket inside the truck and the nut under the truck was 7/8. The core support mount bolts were 15mm and the nut was 18mm.
1/2 inch bolts will fit in all locations, without drilling out the holes, if you choose not to reuse the hardware.
Best of luck to anyone else taking on this job. End result is, the truck body is now about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch higher than before and the cab is no longer rubbing on the down pipe. Cost savings? Not really looking to save the money, I knew I could do the job and I needed to do it for the new exhaust going on next New Diamond Eye stainless sitting in the garage. My wife loves me, she ordered it up for me from Dale Isley.
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97 F250, 4x4, ext. cab., auto, 4:10LS, Turbo back 4" Stainless Diamons Eye exhaust, Autometer Ultra-Lite gauges, TYMAR intake (the real deal), TS Chip, Dual Tensioner mod, Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass with AMS-Oiler (pre-oiler), Amsoil throughout, D60 swap, and 246K miles (still ticking)
Stong supporter of all US Troops, their families, and all waiting for a safe return. Thank you, from a former soldier and his family
I have a rear cab upper bushing that is torn to shreds and needs to be replaced ASAP. Were did you get the bushings to redo all of them. My ford dealer says its $90 just for one upper bushing!!!!! Napa doesn't even show a part number. I was thinking of just replacing the one but replacing all of them sounds better if I could get a reasonably priced kit to do so. Where did you get yours from?
dlb21 - I purchases Energy Suspension, part number 4.4107G (G indicates black, R indicates red). Bought them through Amazon for $67, free shipping. If you have questions about how to replace them, shoot me an PM.
bret
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97 F250, 4x4, ext. cab., auto, 4:10LS, Turbo back 4" Stainless Diamons Eye exhaust, Autometer Ultra-Lite gauges, TYMAR intake (the real deal), TS Chip, Dual Tensioner mod, Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass with AMS-Oiler (pre-oiler), Amsoil throughout, D60 swap, and 246K miles (still ticking)
Stong supporter of all US Troops, their families, and all waiting for a safe return. Thank you, from a former soldier and his family
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New Diamond Eye stainless sitting in the garage. My wife loves me, she ordered it up for me from Dale Isley.
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