Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and AftermarketUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.
Hi all,
Well my truck, a few times, not will not start because what I believe is the switch on the Clutch. If I skake it enough it has started. I have bought a new switch but it was like 40 bucks. I don't need this safety feature. Is there a way to trick the system so I can take this over-priced switch back? Thanks
I am very interested in this, too. I am holding mine together with a small c-clamp, which means no cruise control. I know this has been done before, but I couldn't find a schematic in my search.
__________________
Kurt
SOLD!!
1997 F350 XL PowerStroke 4WD, ZF-5 w/ South Bend Con OFE Clutch
Regular Cab, Long Bed, SRW, 3L55's, Bilstein shocks, Warn premium hubs
3-inch downpipe/4 inch exhaust w/ Magnaflow muffler and cat
Tymar intake
International Water Pump with integrated filter
Wildman Four-Position Chip; Baby Swamps; D66 turbo with 1.00 housing; SD HPOP
Isspro EV Boost and Pyrometer gauges
285/75R16 E-Rated BFG All Terrain KO's
Rear Disc Brakes from Blackbirds Custom Trucks Pictures of it all...
if u unhook it wouldnt that make it think the clutch is still relased
__________________ my photos
95 f-250 444e e4od 4X4 ex cab long bed 3.55ls White Knight Reverse Lights, AIC, FORD seatcovers, AFE STAGE2 INTAKE, 3" downpipe 4" exhuast, EDGE Evolution 100hp setting, auto meter ultra lite pyro, tranny and boost gauges, .177bb in FPR, amsoil atf in transmission & tcase, amsoil syn gear lube in rear diff, bilstien shocks, fog lights, 1000cca batteries
************future mods*******************
intercooler, smaller turbo housing, window tinting
***************************************
03 vw jetta tdi stock for now
An automatic has a jumper installed in the plug for the wiring harness, I do not know if this will also disable the cruise cutout when you release the clutch though.
You should be able to get the jumper at a salvage yard.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive, 3.55 gears, 286,000 miles, Edge Evolution CTS (LINK TO MY REVIEW), LUK clutch, homemade REAR BUMPER, open element AIR FILTER, 36" ARE contractor cap. With tools, full of fuel and me on board (300 lbs) steer 3620, drive 3860 total 7480.
You can do exactly this. Behind the right pedal there is a grop of wires that go into a plug. It is on one side or the other at the extreme end. One of the wires is white with a pink tracer. The other wire is right next to it.
I used a blue spade connector. I drilled out the side that stops the wire so it would fit over both wires at once. Clamped it tight and never looked back.
__________________
1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Believer45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">An automatic has a jumper installed in the plug for the wiring harness, I do not know if this will also disable the cruise cutout when you release the clutch though.
</div></div>
Has anyone with a stick gone this route, and does it cancel the cruise?
Let me get this right, Dave - the wiring harness that plugs into the clutch safety switch has a jumper that is included with the auto trucks to bypass the clutch safety switch feature. Does anyone have a PN for this thing? It is hard for me to get to a JY, and this might be quicker.
Mark - did jumpering those wires let you use your cruise control?
__________________
Kurt
SOLD!!
1997 F350 XL PowerStroke 4WD, ZF-5 w/ South Bend Con OFE Clutch
Regular Cab, Long Bed, SRW, 3L55's, Bilstein shocks, Warn premium hubs
3-inch downpipe/4 inch exhaust w/ Magnaflow muffler and cat
Tymar intake
International Water Pump with integrated filter
Wildman Four-Position Chip; Baby Swamps; D66 turbo with 1.00 housing; SD HPOP
Isspro EV Boost and Pyrometer gauges
285/75R16 E-Rated BFG All Terrain KO's
Rear Disc Brakes from Blackbirds Custom Trucks Pictures of it all...
__________________
1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I went to a dealer to find out the wires. A tech was able to tell me.
Even then I tested them before I started splicing together.
__________________
1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
To answer the cruise question clearly:
the start safety switch is separate from the cruise cancel switch - yes, it is in the same switch assembly but these two use separate wires.
So if you bypass the starter safety switch, your cruise control will still function correctly, just leave the black plastic cylindrical swith on the clutch rod, do not remove it.
Lou
__________________
1994.5 F350 5-sp 4WD CC LB 4.10, RanchHand bumpers, 35" BFG's;
VV 6.0L turbo, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, el. fuel system, open element intake, onboard air with 30" Grovers, el. fans, SD Intercooler ... (+ 20 other mods)
Also, consider where the bushing is in the pushrod, if it had metal to metal wear (when the bushing went out) this will make a difference in starting. I know this firsthand and dealt with it for months before replacing the whole master cylinder. That could be the starting problem, as it was for me.
I cut that off when I replaced all of my hydraulics and replaced with the heim joint. Much more consistent pedal now.
__________________
Kurt
SOLD!!
1997 F350 XL PowerStroke 4WD, ZF-5 w/ South Bend Con OFE Clutch
Regular Cab, Long Bed, SRW, 3L55's, Bilstein shocks, Warn premium hubs
3-inch downpipe/4 inch exhaust w/ Magnaflow muffler and cat
Tymar intake
International Water Pump with integrated filter
Wildman Four-Position Chip; Baby Swamps; D66 turbo with 1.00 housing; SD HPOP
Isspro EV Boost and Pyrometer gauges
285/75R16 E-Rated BFG All Terrain KO's
Rear Disc Brakes from Blackbirds Custom Trucks Pictures of it all...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ironcwb1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also, consider where the bushing is in the pushrod, if it had metal to metal wear (when the bushing went out) this will make a difference in starting. I know this firsthand and dealt with it for months before replacing the whole master cylinder. That could be the starting problem, as it was for me. </div></div>
Iron what kind of problems did this give you? I cut the two white wire(with tracers) and spliced together. It did not work. So I put my new switch I still have the same problem some time it does not want to start. Radio and A/C go off when I have turn the key but it acts just like the clutch is not depressed. Please help on this. I am not out of ideas and 40 bucks.
Thanks
Clint
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