Just thought I would post a non-scientific experiment on here for your edification! This past weekend, after talking with TCH777 we were thinking of making a cold air dam for the Tymar set-up and seeing what the difference would be. I used heat reflective insulating material we had as scrap around the powerplant, and made a cold air box around the Tymar and left the front to intake cold air from the grill. I went 150 miles in 90 deg temps, with some 4-5% grades thrown in, and did not notice nay cooler egts temps what so ever. I did notice that my turbo had a harder time spooling down low though. Took 5 seconds to hit 5 lbs boost with 5th wheel in tow. Took the box out for the return trip, same route and hills, and the turbo spooled to 5 lbs in less than 2 seconds, and had the same egts in some spots, and 50-100 cooler in some of the hills. I guess Dale was right when he said it made no difference, and actually hurt performance anytime you try to direct airflow. Read a post about slow operation and hot engine air. Did not pan out for me at all, and did not take any longer to cool down after a hard pull at a rest stop. Sorry for the long post, just thought someone might safe themselves the effort and time trying to do this mod. I will leave it just the way Dale sent it to me. Thanks for listening to the ramblings of a night shift junkie!! Colin
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1997 ECLB F-250 4X4, TAT e4Od,4.10 Open Diffs,Superwinch Manual Hubs, 265/75/16 Force 4 AT's, DP Tuner F-5 5-Position (Stock,Hi-Idle, 40 Tow, 40 High Alt Tow, 80 Econo ),3"DP,4" Exhaust,Tymar Intake,Full gauges. Intercooled. ATS Turbo.
Tom, I did not take pictures of it, and even if I did I stink at computers, so I would not have the foggiest clue how to post them on here. It was made of thin material, like sheet metal, reflective on one side and heat coated on the other. I did notice what a poster did on another thread, and that is I could tell a big difference in the filter temp, the metal was not but barely warm to the tough with the box in place, but did not seem to make a bit of difference to the engine at all. Dale told me all of this, but tinkeritis got the better of me, and I had to try it. By the way, when I had the factory made Green cold air intake, it made no difference in temps either, but the turbo sure spooled much slower with that thing under the hood. Colin
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1997 ECLB F-250 4X4, TAT e4Od,4.10 Open Diffs,Superwinch Manual Hubs, 265/75/16 Force 4 AT's, DP Tuner F-5 5-Position (Stock,Hi-Idle, 40 Tow, 40 High Alt Tow, 80 Econo ),3"DP,4" Exhaust,Tymar Intake,Full gauges. Intercooled. ATS Turbo.
Thanks , finally somebody else decided to back Dale up in his claims. I know Dale was right, nice for teh confirmation. He is right in that our trucks use so much air that it doesn't have time to get heated up, Unlike a carb taht sits on top of an engine, at most times barely suckign in any air at all.
Making a dam to direct underhood air jsut goes to slow it down and reduce teh volume.
Thanks again
Craig
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1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Prescion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, custom Swamp 195cc Hybrid injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, 225,000km,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,Ramsey 15k# winch, BFG/AT 315's, F450 rear springs, home of Craig's Performance Diesel pictures
" lying is a cheap way out of reality, the real cost is the loss of respect and trust"
I have a remote digital air temp gauge to measure intake temp. I have noticed that the intake air temp is pretty hot when it isn't running and sitting in the sun, but going down the road, the temp is close to ambient. I can certainly see where the flashing you used could restrict air flow. I have heard of people using dryer hose to force cool air into the inlet also. I work at a power plant too and have that flashing everywhere.
Aside from sticking the filter out the side of the hood (like 2 1/2 ton trucks) looks like we who have Tymar got about as good as it is gonna get! C'mon - don't get any ideas - that would just be UGLY!
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Member since 11/27/1999 1996 F250/SC/4x4 BTS E4OD/Hayden 679 - 4.10/LS, BFG/ATs, Auto Meter, Tymar, Edge Programmer, DPP "exhaust products", 247K miles, B20 This winter:D66, DPP Reman Stage 2s, TW Chip
I did a mmod to my truck to get a bit more air... I noted about 200 degrees... less EGTs when pulling... this only works when I am towing but that is the only time ya need it... I have posted this is this in the past and get a bunch of hits on the site... hope it helps
can't get url to work but you can cut and paste
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I hope whoever has my next truck is taking care of it....
When I haul it's a 30 ft. Thor filled with 4 Quads, 1 Kayak, 3 bikes and a dog, (about 9K plus the truck)
97 F-350 4x4 Quad cab,Bully Dog w/4 position switch (run @ #4 most of the time), Western Diesel TurboBrake III, Pyrometer preturbo, Autometer Boost gauge, Third tranny cooler and gauge on the piller, Tymar intake, Raven canopy, BD downturn exhaust, Cat ran away, 4:10 rear, Bilstein shocks, Velvet Rides, manual hubs, 295 75R 16 BFG KO A/T's, BB in FPR, Home made ram cold air intake, Eclispe stereo, 203 degree thermostat.
unfortunately it woun't work with an IC in place, great idea though,I always though it may be nice to open up teh inside of the fender and put some duct work in there, but I want a spare fender first!
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1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Prescion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, custom Swamp 195cc Hybrid injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, 225,000km,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,Ramsey 15k# winch, BFG/AT 315's, F450 rear springs, home of Craig's Performance Diesel pictures
" lying is a cheap way out of reality, the real cost is the loss of respect and trust"
Tom didn't you take some temp readings on your heat shield?
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2001 F-250 Crew Cab, short bed, 4x4, 4R100 with VB tuned by Travis's Automatic Trans, Lariat, Snugtop shell, Line-X bedliner, 265/75/R16 GY Silent Armor. DIY open element air filter. DIY 4 inch exhaust, from stock DP back to 45 degree turn down. Quadzilla Recon XZT moniter- EGT, Trans temp, Boost. DP tuner Stock, 40T, 40T high altitude, 80E, Curt MFG Q5 20K slider hitch, P3 brake controller, ATS housing. Blue Bullet
Sold-- Bright RED 1996 F350 XLT, 4X4, CC, 4.10 gears ,E40D, SRW, Rebuilt E40D at 190K with a 3yr/36K mile warrenty, by Travis's Auto Tranny 719-574-8104. Big Red
Proud Member of the NRA, helping to protect our American Rights!
This is really going to sound of the wall, but would it be possible to hook up an extra airco vent and aim it at the filter, have a mechanical valve, so you would only use it when towing hard in hot weather, might take the place of the i/c.
Just of the top of my head.
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94 powerstroke 5 spd, 4x4 xcab longbed,5 spd, 189.000 miles 4.10 gears, tymar style open intake, 3" DPPI downpipe, South Bend clutch, Edge EZ,pyro gauge, 1" front lift, Firestone airbags rear, 285 Toyo a/t tires, BB in fuel regulator http://good-times.webshots.com/album/55769610
Go to my albums.
could never supply enough cfm to make a dent.
we use what about 1000 cubic feet of air per minute at higher boost levels, like 30 psi.
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1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Prescion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, custom Swamp 195cc Hybrid injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, 225,000km,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,Ramsey 15k# winch, BFG/AT 315's, F450 rear springs, home of Craig's Performance Diesel pictures
" lying is a cheap way out of reality, the real cost is the loss of respect and trust"
I did not take any readings from inside the tube only on the outside of the filter. It can get pretty darn warm at the surface of the filter in particular the firewall side of it. My siimple one sided heat shield helps with that.
Tom
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96 F250SC 4X4 AUTO
F-6 live tuned, BTS Transmission, TN BB, Stage One Injectors, Custom electric fuel,
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