Hello everybody, new member and 7.3 owner. Wanting to install new downpipe and I'm not sure whether to try to do it myself or not. one muffler shop in town wouldn't touch it and the other wanted $450 bucks JUST to install it! Is it that hard to install a 3 or 4" downpipe on a 95 4x4 psd? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Congratulations on several points.
-Welcome to this site.
-Congrats on the truck.
-You just found several places never to take your truck to again.
The downpipe isn't hard. The old one is easiest to take off in pieces, see pic. BTS cut mine from underneath with a sawzall and a long blade.
They used a piece of exhaust pipe (heavy stainless) to bend the pinch weld back to clear the new pipe. Some other people like to use a porta-power, 2x4, or a scissor car jack.
Probably 1 to 1.5hrs if you're used to working on your own vehicles. Add an hour if not. I would have done mine myself, it was a matter of going there anyway for a chip, and I'm glad I got it done at the same time. I'd hate to know what my EGTs would have been w/ the stock downpipe.
Hey dopper
Welcome to TDS [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img] <font color="green">HERE</font> is a web page that gives you an idea of what's involved in doing a downpipe.
When I did mine I used a 12" bimetallic demolition and rescue blade in the sawzall and made just one cut from up above after detaching the DP from the cat and turbo. Pull the pipe up as far as possible and make the cut as low as you can and the bottom half should drop out the bottom with no problem. I didnt have a porta power so I used a 6' length of #10 rebar and just pushed the firewall back using the head as a fulcrum point. There is a fuel fitting on the rear of the head so be carefull if you pry against the head.
Thanks Rodney. That's a huge help! I appreciate all the info. I still didn't catch what size downpipe to go with. Will a 4" fit or is there much difference as far as making the room with a 3"? Thanks again guys.
A 4" downpipe takes some major firewall modifications to make it fit. Most of the downpipes are 3" and either bell out to 3.5" or 4" toward the lower end of the bottom piece.
Call Dale at tymar and get the 3 into 4 inch model, My 95 didn't require much...very little massaging to get it to fit. Just cut from the bottom up on the cobra head and mine fell right out. 2 12inch sawzall blades and I was good to go. Don't let it intimidate you. You can do it..now get to cuttin.
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95 CCLB 4X4, DP, TYMAR, 5POS CHIP, 4",3 GUAGE POD, 115k, 265/75/16 bfg E, E4OD,4.10s,Putnams hitches front and rear,Air bags rear.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I think I'll go with the 3". I don't think I have the patience to try to beat in a 4"
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If I can do it......anybody can do it.......bruises and all...... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
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Thanks for the advice guys. I think I'll go with the 3". I don't think I have the patience to try to beat in a 4"
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If I can do it......anybody can do it.......bruises and all...... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Dan
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It's do-able but not easy! I struggled for most of a day to get a 3" to fit. A duck bill on the end of a porta-power was still not easy. Be careful - I could actually see the cab go out of square when using the hydraulics to move the firewall. Move it farther than you think or you'll get some grinding as the the truck goes over uneven ground.
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1997 F350 7.3L PSD; LB; SRW; Crew cab; RSK with dual front Bilstein shocks; Banks PowerPack; E40D with BadBoy converter & shift kit; 3" DP with 3.5" back; Airlift air bags; Mag-Hytec diff/trans covers; Power Slot rotors; Flex-a-Lite remote trans cooler; Tymar intake & CCV mod; SPDiesel SSEBTC controller; B&W turn-over ball & Companion 5th wheel hitch.
Homepage: http://community.webshots.com/user/rmrusten1
Just one more question before I order my downpipe-Will the factory exhaust system from the downpipe back be ok or will a 4" exhaust make a huge difference? It has a straight pipe now-that way when I bought the truck. Just trying to decide if to spend the extra $300 for a complete system or put that extra money on guages.Can't do both- Gotta keep the better-half happy [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Im installing my downpipe now and I've bent and pulled for all the space i can get but I still think its going to rub at the bottom of the firewall. Is this ok are does their have to be space between the pipe and firewall/floorpan?
There has to be space or it will drive you nuts....ask me how I know
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Mine: 91 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5spd 7.3IDI 4.10LS 145,000 miles. Banks Sidewinder 92 D60 F axle w 97 brakes and Powerlock. Lift: about 4" over stock 250. 33x12.50x16.5 Pro Comp MTs Magnaflow 12" muffler. Sees dirt everyday. Used to haul hay, wood, feed cows, check fence.
Hers: 96F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS 190,000 miles. Puchased 7/03, Looked for a 5spd CCSB for a year!Dana 60 front axle, at stock F350 height (for now) Energy Poly bushings, Bilsteins, 305/70/16 Pro Comps on 16x10 Weld Outbacks, AFE Pro7,TYMAR 3x3.5x4 downpipe,TYMAR 5" straightpipe, gutted EBV, IH Non EBV pedistal,New Alliant AC Injectors,(stage 1)Cal reg kit, SBC Con O clutch, permenent clutch bushing fix, AC mod with a different twist, AMP Powersteps with custom brackets and wiring(one of 2 OBS trucks with them according to AMP) Line of Fire. Sees dirt everyday.
My Company pickup: 86 F250 6.9 C6 320,000 miles Co trucks 5 89 to 94 IDI's, plus about 50 more diesels.
Diesel Mechanic 28 yrs
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