Electrical fuel conversion insall

[JoeDown]

Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. I decided there was three things on my to do list. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. Here is the list of parts I used and the costs.

Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 (thedieselstore.com) $74.64
Secondary Filter Base - (WIX): 24770 (Fleetfilter.com) $26.00
Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 (Fleetfilter.com) $9.00
Fuel Pump - (ebay.com) $114
Fuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100
Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 (amazon.com) $28.00
Fuel pressure switch - (local) $25.00
Fuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 (ebay.com) $133
Fuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00
Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00
Fuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00
Brass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00
Fittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00
Fittings - Parker (local) $37.33
Wire - (local) $5.00
Fuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00
Misc stuff - (local) $9.00
Total - $600

The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks.

I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. I did not need to cut them to make them fit.

I fabbed a bracket out of stainless steel to mount the pressure regulator to the bracket on top of the HPOP reservoir. I reused the existing flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads into the fuel regulator.

The wire for the fuel filter restriction was plugged into the fuel pressure sensor to light the dash light if fuel pressure drops below 20lbs.

I went to the wrecking yard and got a fuse box from an F150 so that I could add another relay and fuse to my fuse box. I added the relay in the upper left corner and the large size 30amp fuse furthest to the right. All wiring was run in existing looms where possible. I wanted this whole setup to look as factory as possible.

[JoeDown]

For the fuel filters I fabbed a couple brackets from stainless and mounted the filters as high up as I could. They are not visible unless you get under the truck. This is only possible on an F350. My F250 doesn't have the depth under the cab in front of the front fuel tank.

I mounted the fuel pump using a bracket from a Ford car that holds the fuel filter. It was just the right size and worked perfect. It might have been easier to just use a SD pump but that would have cost me more.

The oil pressure sensor was installed in the rear oil cooler header. I used a rubber boot from a BMW at the wrecking yard. I was surprised how well it fit.

I also added a fuel safety shutoff switch from another Ford car. I spent quite some time looking in the engine compartment until I realized they were located in the trunk.

Finished it up last night and took it for a spin. All I can say is I've never felt anything like it before! I just wonder how long my tranny is going to last now. I have a TW chip with the street race position but it hasn't been programed for the new Stage 1s I put in. Anyhow all I can say is this is a different truck.

[7.3psd]

Looks like you thought it through and did a nice job. There are a couple things I'd have done different but I applaud you on your keeping the wiring tidy and useing the factory fuse block etc. 99% of guys on here just run wires all over the place and make it look like crap! You did a nice job.

One thing I'd be careful on though is the fuel line going to the heads. The stock supply line is a suction and you have a piece of hose just clamped on there. You need to use some sort of push lock fittings or something that has a more positive hold. Or you could blow the fuel line off of there and have some major spillage issues.

[Cratos]

what was the part # for the parker fitting to go from 6AN to 5/16 hose barb 90 degree???

[dansk]

I think a lot of us would be interested in the wiring setup. I.E., if there is an accident, would the fuel pump shut off? Could you write a detailed info on your wiring and relays? My fuel system is below.
Dann

[JoeDown]

Originally Posted by dansk

I think a lot of us would be interested in the wiring setup. I.E., if there is an accident, would the fuel pump shut off? Could you write a detailed info on your wiring and relays? My fuel system is below.
Dann

Here is a quick diagram of how I wired the system. I made the connections for the power, ground, and ignition on directly in the fuse box. The only connection not available in the fuse box was the one for the key in the start position. I tapped into the wire going into the firewall.



Since this setup was built and installed by myself using whatever parts I could get, I cannot guarantee the functionality or safety of this setup. I'm sure there are more sophisticated safety methods to do this. I've heard that a lot of people don't like oil pressure switches because of failure but I haven't heard of a replacement that provides the same type of functionality.

Ideally what we want to see is intelligent control of the fuel pump. Turn the key to the on or start position and the pump runs for a few seconds and shuts off if the vehicle is not started. Pump only runs when the vehicle is running. Power to the fuel pump with just key on is a bad idea as far as safety goes.

[JoeDown]

Originally Posted by 7.3psd

One thing I'd be careful on though is the fuel line going to the heads. The stock supply line is a suction and you have a piece of hose just clamped on there. You need to use some sort of push lock fittings or something that has a more positive hold. Or you could blow the fuel line off of there and have some major spillage issues.

This is the one area where I was unable to really get a nice factory looking connection. I didn't want to cut the stock line and loose the barb on the end so it is in almost direct contact with the barb coming out of the threeway. It would be physically impossible for the hose to come off unless it split or the fittings on the stainless steel lines came undone. If that happened then hopefully that would cause the engine to die from lack of fuel and the oil pressure switch would kill the pump.

[dansk]

Thanks for the diagram, very informative. What is the "C" connection on the ignition switch? Cranking, Starting? If so, then what runs the fuel pump when switch is in On or run position. Sorry, might be a stupid question.
Dann

[JoeDown]

Originally Posted by dansk

Thanks for the diagram, very informative. What is the "C" connection on the ignition switch? Cranking, Starting? If so, then what runs the fuel pump when switch is in On or run position. Sorry, might be a stupid question.
Dann

I forgot to label the diagram of the oil pressure switch. The C terminal on the oil pressure switch is what activates the relay to run the pump depending on whether the truck is being started or is already running.

[dansk]

Ok, think I got it. So when cranking in start mode, power goes to the C terminal and when started the oil pressure builds up and the power then comes from the ignition on terminal. After oil pressure builds, the Normally Open terminal becomes closed and makes contact. Seems to me there are only 2 leads going to our oil pressure units. Are you using a different sending unit?
Thanks, Dann

[drford]

Originally Posted by dansk

Ok, think I got it. So when cranking in start mode, power goes to the C terminal and when started the oil pressure builds up and the power then comes from the ignition on terminal. After oil pressure builds, the Normally Open terminal becomes closed and makes contact. Seems to me there are only 2 leads going to our oil pressure units. Are you using a different sending unit?
Thanks, Dann

yes he is using a different unit it supplies power to pump while chranking only then when engine is running the switch becomes NC and keeps the pump going so if you lose oil psi the pump will shut off

[samduket]

just wanna keep this thread around for myself. is there a better way to do that than this stupid response?

[95powerstroke95]

just wondering how this set up will work with duel tanks and the selector valve. as far as the fitlers, what micron is recomended befor fuel pump on suction side and same for after the pump on the pressure side. Does anyone know what the superduty pumps are rated at, psi and gph?

[fastg60]

What PSI are you running the fuel at?