Ive been reading the gauge descriptions and still cant figure out why a boost gauge costs 60 bucks and another will cost 120? whats the diff between a cobalt $60 boost gauge and a cobalt $120 boost gauge? They obviously dont do the same thing, but kind of, they do? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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1997 PSD #34 15.093 @ 88.63mph(on BDPstage1s) Beans electric fuel, FFD 230cc stroked acodes TWildman 6 position Tymar intake, 17*hpop, IDM mod, diamond back 4" turbo back dual exhaust (3" DP), Arp studs, comp valvesprings, 7.3 intercooler, Rough Country 4" lift, 315 Cepeks FC 2 on MT classics, Bdog electrolum gauges (pre turbo pyro), E4OD auto, 4.10LS, TC ind light, DIY EBPV brake w/ ind lights, CCV mod, Richter69 TC and accum body, 203* tstat, clear turn signals, toolbox with light, ford manual hub conv., ext trim gone.
Highest hp 362, highest tq 723 corrected onstage 1s
future mods: bigoil, 2nd fuelpump, H2E
Work truck: 03 7.3 excab lb F250
New Family rig: 2002 7.3 Excursion edge evo II, mbrp 4" tb exhaust, tymar intake Big_Dan97's Photos
[ QUOTE ]
Ive been reading the gauge descriptions and still cant figure out why a boost gauge costs 60 bucks and another will cost 120? whats the diff between a cobalt $60 boost gauge and a cobalt $120 boost gauge? They obviously dont do the same thing, but kind of, they do? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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Actually both gauges do the same thing, but electric full sweep gauges (like the Cobalt boost gauge) are expensive because of two things:
1) the more intricate range requires a different sender than a short sweep electric gauge.
2) the movement is quite a bit more costly manufacturer than for a mechanical gauge or short sweep electric gauge.
Some people swear by mechanical gauges, with good reason, but modern electric gauges, especially the full sweep ones, are just as accurate, and have the advantage of not having to run tubing into the cab. Full sweep electric gauge are more expensive though, definitely.
Whether you choose electric or mechanical, the Auto Meter Cobalt's were really slow catching on, we can barely keep them on the shelf.
__________________
Good luck with your mods,
Paul Kollek eShocks.com - eGauges.com
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I think I have a better understanding of it now thanks! Im waiting on some new bullydog electroluminescent gauges, theyve been on backorder for almost 4 weeks [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img] So I told the company Ill only wait until next thursday, problem is I already have the morphing switch off ebay so if I cancel the order Im stuck with a morphing switch that does me no good. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
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1997 PSD #34 15.093 @ 88.63mph(on BDPstage1s) Beans electric fuel, FFD 230cc stroked acodes TWildman 6 position Tymar intake, 17*hpop, IDM mod, diamond back 4" turbo back dual exhaust (3" DP), Arp studs, comp valvesprings, 7.3 intercooler, Rough Country 4" lift, 315 Cepeks FC 2 on MT classics, Bdog electrolum gauges (pre turbo pyro), E4OD auto, 4.10LS, TC ind light, DIY EBPV brake w/ ind lights, CCV mod, Richter69 TC and accum body, 203* tstat, clear turn signals, toolbox with light, ford manual hub conv., ext trim gone.
Highest hp 362, highest tq 723 corrected onstage 1s
future mods: bigoil, 2nd fuelpump, H2E
Work truck: 03 7.3 excab lb F250
New Family rig: 2002 7.3 Excursion edge evo II, mbrp 4" tb exhaust, tymar intake Big_Dan97's Photos
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