just wondering if anyone knows if the eot sensor is bad could it keep the glow plugs energized. my glow plugs would not shut off so i had to disconect them and put them on a spring loaded toggle. i would like to fix this problem asap any help would be great.
thanks aaron [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
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1997 f-250 3 inch dp,3.5 strait exaust, pyro tans fuel and boost gauges 35inch bfg's automatic
Couple of questions....what year truck? What pcm code? Glow plugs not shutting off maybe a relay problem caused by a starter relay installed mistakenly as a glow plug relay....they look identical, parts guys are notorious for this. The reason for the pcm code question is that in late '96 the TDE codes used the oil temp to adjust the length of time of heating the plugs or not cycling them at all....Don't be surprised if the moderators move your thread to the general catagory...even though you have a modded switch for your plugs, I've had threads deleted that make no sense
the truck is a 97 and it is not with me at the moment so i dont have the pcm code. on the relay the little wire that gets voltage when key is turned on never drops voltage it is always hot.
thanks again
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1997 f-250 3 inch dp,3.5 strait exaust, pyro tans fuel and boost gauges 35inch bfg's automatic
I don't have an answer to your problem but can answer this:
[ QUOTE ]
the little wire that gets voltage when key is turned on never drops voltage it is always hot.
[/ QUOTE ]
Those little wires will both be "hot" when measuring from the terminals of the relay to ground when the ignition is on. The PCM controls the relay on time by providing a ground for that "hot" circuit when it wants the relay on. (One is fed when the ignition is turned on and the other will read 12v also because the current flows through the windings of the relay to your voltmeter.)
You can monitor if/when the PCM is dictating relay on time by putting the voltmeter probes between the two small terminals on the relay. When the PCM is telling the relay to come on there will be 12v between the terminals. When the PCM is not calling for g/plugs there will not be a reading between the terminals. (Polarity will matter when checking it this way.)
I should have mentioned this first... is your g/p relay stuck closed? When everything is connected and the ignition is first turned on you should get 12v and both large terminals. One is fed straight from the postive terminal of the battery and the other should only be hot when activated by the PCM. If both large terminals are hot when the little wires are removed, the relay is stuck closed.
Hope that helps! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
God Bless,
TC
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do they stay on just when the key is one, or ALL the time. I am thinking there may be a frayed wire that is grounding the wire that goes to the PCM, thus the GP would stay on. there won't be much current for that peticular circuit, so it wouldn't pop a fuse.
Diesel Rod
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Formerly Diesel Rod.
A '97 F250 with 295K miles, 90 LED's and 5" stacks, among other things....
A '96 F250 Reg cab with 210K miles, Needs to go away. PM me. '86 359 Peterbilt SHORT HOOD. The ongoing "project" it aint pretty but its got a 425 air to air Cat motor .....13 speed Eaton. Corvette Dash, 17 gauges, 8" black stacks, 63" flat top---> 36" sitting here waiting for paint. 1.305 Million Miles.
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