What is the proper prodecure for priming the engine since it has a crank driven oil pump. I dont like the idea of turning the engine over until it fills the heads up with oil. I was thinking maybe tapping into an oil galley line and pumping oil into the engine with an oil pump out of a sbf stuck into a bucket with oil in it and spinning it with a drill, pumping the oil into the engine. What has everybody else done? Thanx
I started mine by turning it over till it pumped up. Everyone else I remember doing it did the same. Haven't ben around in awhile so things may have changed. I'm sure you could fill the pump reservoir and the heads. Try it.
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96 F-350 4x4 CC LB, International block and heads from Mcandless IH in Denver, <span style="color: red">Baby Swamps </span>, Luk Cerametallic Clutch, 5" straight exhaust,5 speed ZF, 4.10's, Evolution programmer, Banks brake, non-EBPV IH turbopedestal, AFE Magnum force, CA reg. kit, 12,000 lb. Milemarker on reciever mount, 215amp ambulance alt., 33" muds on factory aluminum, Class 5 bumper hitch, hidden gooseneck, pillar gauges, fosgate amp, 12" sub.
Colorado National Gaurd.
"Firearms stand next in importance to the constitution itself. They are the American people's liberty, teeth and keystone under independece. When Firearms go, all go's. We need them every hour!"
President GEORGE WASHINGTON
Thats what I've always been taught is to prime the pump before you start the engine. One thing I've done in the past is to take apart the oil pump and pack it with some vasoline which helps with the priming.
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'95 Ford F-350, CC,4x4, 7.3 Powerstroke,RDS Stage 1's,Tony Wildman 6 position chip,3.55LS,modded IDM(Thanks Dan),3" downpipe-5" mitre cuts,ebpv gutted, 6" tip,Napa 6637 air filter,Autometer ultra lite triple pillar gauges,Dana 60,Rancho RS 5000 schocks,E40D junk trans,,Aluminum tool box with 7 LED's, headache rack,bed protectors,Hayden Trans. Cooler,Custom Homemade SD Stainless Steel Nerf Bars,285/75/16 BFG All Terrains on Factory Alcoa's,'02 SD Intercooler with homemade IC pipes,Gooseneck hitch
Haven't done any powerstrokes yet, but at work on large engines we assemble them with assembly grease. Its a white kinda slimy stuff that comes in a tube, thinner than chassis grease, but thicker than engine oil.
For assembly you have to use a anti scuffing assembly lubricant of some kind but I dont like the idea of turning an engine over until it has oil pressure. The lube you are refering to is lubriplate white assembly grease, For asembly I like to use redline molly bearing lube and torco MPZ assembly lube.
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Haven't done any powerstrokes yet, but at work on large engines we assemble them with assembly grease. Its a white kinda slimy stuff that comes in a tube, thinner than chassis grease, but thicker than engine oil.
-Michael
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I'm pretty sure you dont want that on your injectors.
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96 F-350 4x4 CC LB, International block and heads from Mcandless IH in Denver, <span style="color: red">Baby Swamps </span>, Luk Cerametallic Clutch, 5" straight exhaust,5 speed ZF, 4.10's, Evolution programmer, Banks brake, non-EBPV IH turbopedestal, AFE Magnum force, CA reg. kit, 12,000 lb. Milemarker on reciever mount, 215amp ambulance alt., 33" muds on factory aluminum, Class 5 bumper hitch, hidden gooseneck, pillar gauges, fosgate amp, 12" sub.
Colorado National Gaurd.
"Firearms stand next in importance to the constitution itself. They are the American people's liberty, teeth and keystone under independece. When Firearms go, all go's. We need them every hour!"
President GEORGE WASHINGTON
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How long does it usually take to fill the heads up with oil? do you disable the injectors so they wont fire? Thanx
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I do recall in the instructions from Swamp that you pull a fuse and turn the engine over to prime the injectors with oil. Something about them dry firing and damaging the nozzles. It's been a couple years now. Swamp used to have the instructions for R&R of injectors on his site.
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96 F-350 4x4 CC LB, International block and heads from Mcandless IH in Denver, <span style="color: red">Baby Swamps </span>, Luk Cerametallic Clutch, 5" straight exhaust,5 speed ZF, 4.10's, Evolution programmer, Banks brake, non-EBPV IH turbopedestal, AFE Magnum force, CA reg. kit, 12,000 lb. Milemarker on reciever mount, 215amp ambulance alt., 33" muds on factory aluminum, Class 5 bumper hitch, hidden gooseneck, pillar gauges, fosgate amp, 12" sub.
Colorado National Gaurd.
"Firearms stand next in importance to the constitution itself. They are the American people's liberty, teeth and keystone under independece. When Firearms go, all go's. We need them every hour!"
President GEORGE WASHINGTON
I don't think Mickey is so much concerned with filling the HPOP and injectors as starting a newly build motor dry. Mickey I think you have the right idea of using some sort of pump tied into the oil pressure plug down by the oil filter in the oil cooler housing would be a good idea. then once you have good lube oil flow you can top off the HPOP reservior and then start cranking. It may be a good idea to just unplug the cam sensor to get the engine cranking good and all the oil galley's, and oil pickup tube full before you actually fire the engine.
__________________ 1997 F-350 CC LB 4x4 Auto, AD's, Chip, IC, 4Wh. Disk Brakes, and other stuff
Every motor I have ever seen (psd) has been started up with no problems.
You keep asking about the heads, that is no worry. The heads only need filled for the injectors to fire. They won't even try to fire until they see 500 PSI from the HPOP.
As for the rotating assembly, I guess you could go ahead and prime it the way you said.......anyone I have ever known that does these prefills the front cover through the top and cranks it over.....Mione took about 2- 3 min to fire of. And dont be scared of the popcorn sound coming out the valve covers when they actually do see oil pressure.
The lower end of these blocks get lubes pretty fast from the LPOP
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"If your talkin' bout me.....your leavin' somebody else alone.
I just know that on our race engines we wont fire them until we see oil come out of every pushrod and that takes a decent amount of priming. I see how much oil is held in the HPOP resevoir and in the rails in the heads and i just dont want to scuff a set of bearings trying to get them filled with oil.
My own .02 is that when you assembled the engine, there should have been assembly grease on the bearings and oil of some kind around the pistions. If I was to do it (I haven't done a PSD) I would fill the HPOP,and leave out the glowplugs so there is very little load until I saw oil into the heads. Then install GP's and try to fire!
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97 PSD , Blue, Four tires!? 3" downpipe, I hate cats.
Tymar Intake 217K
Baja Trails, 3.55's
Resistor chip and new FPS.
Averaging 17 MPG this summer - I like that!!!
Replaced so far, CPS, lift pump, Amsoil every where.
Removed the stock engine fan with an electric fan from a Mercury Villager-much quieter and no problems so far.
I fill oil pumps with a 50-50 mix of Clevite bearing guard and white lithium grease. Then crank with the glowplugs out and injectors disconnected to prime the oil galleys with the crank under no load from compression...when there is oil everywhere light it off.
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