Looks like my hubs are gone. They are locking in when making a sharp turn, left or right. I have 247,000 on this truck. I had them replaced with factory hubs at around 50,000, they were doing the same thing. So my question is should I replace with the auto's? Or, should I replace with Manual?
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97 250 HD 4x4 Crew Cab, SB, K&N, Superchip,Auto, 4.10, Shell, Winter Toy Hauler, Don't drive faster then your Angels can fly!!!
I've never had any luck with auto hubs. In my opinion a set of Warn premium hubs cant be beat. Do you have auto's now? If you do there is a conversion kit that you would also need to buy. I believe the part numbers are the same for the 3/4 ton, if so its warn # 38826. You can get them off ebay for about $185.
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'96 F-350XLT 4x4, 7.3L, 175K, 3.55, E4OD, Western Pro Plow, AutoMeter Phantom II's, Tymar intake, 3" DPPI D.P. and 3.5" cat delete, 4" single stack kit from Black Cloud, 5"x36" mitre cut S.S. stack from MBRP, Gutted EBPV, Cali FPR, Stancor GPR, 215 Amp Alternator,Custom Battery Cables, SD starter, TS 6 Pos Chip Truck Pics
IMO, go with the manuals. They're cheaper and more reliable. I put Warn hubs on mine last year. Very happy to know for sure that they are locked, and not have to guess if they are working. You'll have to get a kit to change to wheel bearing locknuts to the "old style", unless you can get them from a wrecker (Dana 50 or 60) or have them lying around like I did.
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05 F-350 Crewcab 4x4, 6.0, Auto, Dually, My new Tow Rig
95 F-350 Crewcab 4x4, 7.3, Auto, Awesome Tow Rig
80 F-250 4X4, 429, 4 Speed, Lifted, Solid Axles, Boggers, 450,000km and going strong
90 Bronco, Work in Progress
manuals for sure, got some at a salvage yard for $40 bucks with the "guts" and all. heres a good pic of what my autos looked like. Im real good about unlocking them and the 2nd winter after buying the truck thats what they looked like- I never checked em to begin with but there it is.
Dan
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1997 PSD #34 15.093 @ 88.63mph(on BDPstage1s) Beans electric fuel, FFD 230cc stroked acodes TWildman 6 position Tymar intake, 17*hpop, IDM mod, diamond back 4" turbo back dual exhaust (3" DP), Arp studs, comp valvesprings, 7.3 intercooler, Rough Country 4" lift, 315 Cepeks FC 2 on MT classics, Bdog electrolum gauges (pre turbo pyro), E4OD auto, 4.10LS, TC ind light, DIY EBPV brake w/ ind lights, CCV mod, Richter69 TC and accum body, 203* tstat, clear turn signals, toolbox with light, ford manual hub conv., ext trim gone.
Highest hp 362, highest tq 723 corrected onstage 1s
future mods: bigoil, 2nd fuelpump, H2E
Work truck: 03 7.3 excab lb F250
New Family rig: 2002 7.3 Excursion edge evo II, mbrp 4" tb exhaust, tymar intake Big_Dan97's Photos
After using the autos, I will never get anything but Warn Premiums. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Even regular manual hubs (pretty much any brand) will be stronger and more reliable and work a hundred times better than the stock autos, though I wheel enough I wanted the strength of the Premiums though.
p.s. I have one (one hub, not set) I am trying to get rid of in case anyone blows one up. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
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- Ryan
<font color="red">7.3 POWERSTROKE DIESEL</font> F-250 Flatbed 4x4 -- full info and pics inside
<font color="black">DOB 6/10/1996</font>
<font color="red">bdp</font> <font color="#8B7162">Stage I injectors and custom programs</font>
<font color="orange">SBC</font> <font color="#8B7162">Con OFE</font>
<font color="green">2002</font> <font color="#8B7162">SD HPOP</font>
285HP
Live in SoCal? Check out SoCAPS! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
autos are getting hard to come by! You can't find em in the junkyards around here and the stealership wants $500 each for them. Can't just buy parts anymore either ford will only sell you a complete hub now.
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