I replaced my rear tank about 5 years ago due to rust through.
Guess what? The dumb thing is leaking again.
I am going to go bronco tank this time, but my question is if they make a plastic tank that I can afford?
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
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2003, F250, Super Duty, Super Cab, 7.3, Auto, 4X4 Silver, 2" lift in front only, 46 gal fuel tank, Billet Grill, 285X75X16 BFG MT, Bilsteins, Firestone Air Rear, B&W Gooseneck, We call it the "Silver Knocker"
I will use the stock skid plate. I am not sure how this one rusted? Last one rusted outside in where a pebble was wedged between the skid plate and the tank.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Did you spray the last one with a good layer of undercoating? I've found that helps to stop rust pretty well. It might help with pebbles too. I replaced my forward tank last spring and all I could find was a bunch of pebbles in the rubber boot that goes over the front of it. I used a lot of undercoat so I'm hoping it will work.
Mark, a few years ago, I did some "upgrading" to my fuel system, and went with one 33 gallon plastic Bronco tank (from the Bronco Graveyard mentioned above), a couple of fuel filters in between the tank & the fuel pump, the Aeromotive regulator deal & all that. I bought a used Bronco skid plate at a wrecking yard for around $25 that I used for that plastic tank.
The Bronco skid plate was about 2 or 3 inches to short to bolt solidly up to the frame, even though the bolt pattern was fairly close. I initially used 3/8" all thread to take up the room between the skid plate & the frame, like another member here had done back years ago.
After the tank had been on for at least a year or two, and been over some rough roads all over Oregon, I was driving to work one morning, bounced across an intersection with a full tank, and the all thread broke!!! I was dragging my tank, on the skid plate, by my pickup & return lines....
I fabbed up some wonderful steel brackets from mild steel flat bar with my newly purchased mig welder, to go between the frame & skid plate, and never looked back. Mostly 'cause my tank stayed up where it's supposed to be....... A guy sure appreciates little things like that....
The big tank in back means some work & "concessions" on your part. I had to lengthen & modify my fuel pickup tube quite a bit, and engineer up/lengthen my fuel sender float, get it adjusted (that took a couple of tries to get where I liked it- reading empty with around 4 gallons of fuel left), and then making a bracket for the spare tire to ride in the bed.
If you've already addressed this kinda stuff, forgive me. I just want a person to be aware of all the stuff that either needs to be done, should be done better than how I did it, and that it probably ain't a simple bolt-on kinda deal, if you want any sorta longevity of the components....
I have the in bed tire carrier already. I figure modifying the sender and pick-up should not be that hard to do.
It will not happen until June or later so I have time to look around and gather parts.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
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A guy sure appreciates little things like that....
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