Getting things ready to install stronger valve springs

[Mick]

The valve springs showed up so I decided I needed to make something to pressurize the cylinder so I don't drop a valve into the cylinder. A glow plug was purchased and sacrificed. I also have the valve squeeze tool. Hopefully, I'll get some time when I wake up to see if this all works or not...
http://www.angelfire.com/pa5/97powerstroke/

Anyone else install stronger springs that can clue me if I'm in for any surpises?

[ytee]

Mick,
Let us know how the install goes. It looks like you have a good plan, I hope it works for you. I am interested in doing this and head studs at the same time if it works out.


Chris

[Nit]

nice job on teh air fitting to plug, but, I have a snap-on compression tester and it has a simple GP replacement with flex line to a std air fitting. Thansk for the Comp-cams number now I know what to use.
Craig

[ole_blu]

Just wondering what lead you to use the 940-16 spring? I believe that luke cline and sun hester had the 26120-16 spring installed on their trucks. I know the 26120 is a beehive spring (whatever that means). summits website lists the 940-16 as rated 239lbs. and the 26120-16 as only 130lbs.

Which spring is better? Stronger? what advatages does one have over the other?

thanks,
thomas

[Mick]

I added some more pictures to the spring installation.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa5/97powerstroke/
This is not a fun job. I wish I would have done the head studs, then the springs right after each other. The AC condensor cover will need to be removed again for the passenger rear springs. I didn't even get to the driver side yet. So far only three cylinders done.

The modified glow plug works pretty good so far - didn't drop a valve onto the piston yet. I started off being anal and bringing the cylinder to Top Dead Center and holding the engine from turning over from the air pressure with a block of wood on a jack against the torque convertor. I ended up not touching that after the first cylinder. Three down and 5 more to go. This job is a lot of work too.

As far as the different springs, I went with Swamps recommendation if keeping the stock rotators. It looks like the larger spring may barely touch the injector metal clamp on the exhaust side though. I am concerned. If I have to do this again I'll probably go with the Beehives. The smaller top will ensure plenty of clearance with the injector. The Beehive has a lot less mass, smaller retainer, therefore get away with a lot less seat pressure, but should be changed out more frequently... supposedly... I honestly don't know, just going by what I read about them. With that being said, I stayed old school for now, as I did with my race car. The Powerstroke push rods are quite heavy and I'm not sure the reduction in Beehive mass will acccount for all the other weight still present with this valve train.

Time for bed again. More tomorrow night...

[Nit]

yes I did this years ago on a V6 Ford Capri motor, it did not tatke that long, but after being under our VC on a reg basis I feel your pain, best advise is to get comfortable while you work, get a tall work bench or some plywood to lay on etc. 10 mins doing that saves hours of frustrations.

[Moremph]

you can also rotate the motor over and use the piston to hold the valves up That is how i did it.

Travis

[Mick]

Jonathan did mention you could rotate the engine to TDC and hold the valves up. The air was pretty easy after a while. I got a rythm going and the driver side only took a few hours. No cab tilting or holes required - whew! All springs are installed and the truck is running again. I added a couple more pictures, nothing fancy though.

Now the supporting mods are done - head studs and valve springs, time for the fun mods. A fuel system is next on the list, then a HPOP! Eventually, the turbo off of the turboMustang will make it's way onto the truck.