Hi gang
I was in the middle of gutting the ebpv
And was grinding down the bottom bushing (so it would be flush inside) and it cracked in half!
Do I need it as a heat sink so the freeze plug wont melt? Or can I just tap the freeze plug in and forget about it?
I would think that a freeze plug might melt at that much heat??
Thanks for your help guys.
Cratos
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97 F-250HD Super Cab 4X4
Jasper E4OD, 3.55 gears
Auto Meter Dash Mounted: Trans temp, Boost, EGT, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure.Water temp. Gauges. http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...t=1&thecat=500
Homemade Open Air Filter, 3 in SS DP, SD, 03 Intercooler. GTS kit. Modified Pedestal, ITP SS HX, CCV Mod, BABY SWAMPS & SWAMPS 6 POS Chip, 17 Deg HPOP, Gutted EPBV, Jasper Stage 1
249,000 Miles, and still going Strong.
TSM Disk Rear Brakes
I think just the freeze plug will be fine. I cut the shaft on mine down to size and welded it in... you can also just use a large enough carriage bolt (I'd personally rather have a bolt in there than just a freeze plug). [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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- Ryan
<font color="red">7.3 POWERSTROKE DIESEL</font> F-250 Flatbed 4x4 -- full info and pics inside
<font color="black">DOB 6/10/1996</font>
<font color="red">bdp</font> <font color="#8B7162">Stage I injectors and custom programs</font>
<font color="orange">SBC</font> <font color="#8B7162">Con OFE</font>
<font color="green">2002</font> <font color="#8B7162">SD HPOP</font>
285HP
Live in SoCal? Check out SoCAPS! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I just did my EBPV the day before yesterday-- I followed Baz's instructions to the T. No problems.
Are you grinding the bushing that is below the freeze plug that is already in the casting? I ground that one down also. If it cracked, you may want to get any loose fracture out and it shouldn't be an issue. On the other bushing with the open hole, I pressed it out as the 20mm plug wouldn't fit with it in there.
I bought 2 plugs in case I messed one up; the first one went in 'OK' (slightly ****eyed) but to be sure, I pressed it in about 2/3rds down the hole and pressed the other in on top of it. The 2nd one went in perfect.
Be sure to put Never Seize on the (3) 12 points when you reinstall the EBPV on the turbo.
I'm glad I did went to the trouble of gutting it; The whistle sounds sweet, just like a big rig!
Mike
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94 F250 SC, 4x4, 5spd, 4.10ls, LuK, Toyo Country AT 285/16s, 190K, edge evo, shimmed FPR, Bilsteins, Add-a-leaf, 3"DP/4" exh, new ACs, ISSPRO, Term. 17* HPOP, pedestal mod, Tymar Intake and HPX, IDM and CCV mods
I pressed the bushing out and was griding it down when it broke. I put the snap ring in behind it so it cant blow out.
I put blue loctight on it to.
and will put it on the bolts as it looks like what it had on it.
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
__________________
97 F-250HD Super Cab 4X4
Jasper E4OD, 3.55 gears
Auto Meter Dash Mounted: Trans temp, Boost, EGT, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure.Water temp. Gauges. http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...t=1&thecat=500
Homemade Open Air Filter, 3 in SS DP, SD, 03 Intercooler. GTS kit. Modified Pedestal, ITP SS HX, CCV Mod, BABY SWAMPS & SWAMPS 6 POS Chip, 17 Deg HPOP, Gutted EPBV, Jasper Stage 1
249,000 Miles, and still going Strong.
TSM Disk Rear Brakes
racesidner,
Nope, turbo stays where it's at. Just soak the three bolts, many different times, that hold the housing to the turbo with a good penetrating oil long before you start to try break 'em loose. make sure that you use a quality non worn socket, (think it's a twelve point), you wont have any problems.
when i done mine instead of welding i used carrige bolts which have round heads, put the round heads on inside and flat washer and self locking nut on outside
for a self locking nut use one that DOSE NOT USE PLASTIC for lock
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1997 F 350 4X4, twildeman 6 pos., mod idm, bean` s stage 2` s and turbo, intercooler, 4" no muffler or cat and stack, fuel pressure mod and trans from brians ruck shop rear disk brakes, and a stecher stage 1 hpop
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