I can't get that third 5/16 bolt out. What did you guys use? Tried all kinds of u-joints and extensions. I can't get a good hold on it to loosen it. Haen't stripped the haead yet so that is a good thing.
The one on the back I take it? I just used my 3/8" socket with something like a 4-6" extension, got my other hand around there to get it on and it pulled right out. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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- Ryan
<font color="red">7.3 POWERSTROKE DIESEL</font> F-250 Flatbed 4x4 -- full info and pics inside
<font color="black">DOB 6/10/1996</font>
<font color="red">bdp</font> <font color="#8B7162">Stage I injectors and custom programs</font>
<font color="orange">SBC</font> <font color="#8B7162">Con OFE</font>
<font color="green">2002</font> <font color="#8B7162">SD HPOP</font>
285HP
Live in SoCal? Check out SoCAPS! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I know you probably tried this but make sure you soak it in WD-40 or something. One other thing I did was remove my down pipe that gave me some room to manuever around.
ART
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2005 Dodge Durango Limited w/HEMI.
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LT.
Soaked the bolt overnight. I unbolted the downpipe from the muffler, and have pushed it up and over to give more clearance, but I still can't get a straight shot to the bolt. For some reason it feels like the socket isn't sitting all the way down on the bolt, like the socket is hitting the ebpv housing or something.
I ended up using a small end wrench and put a bar against it and hit the bar with a hammer to get mine loose. It was a PITA! Best of luck it will be worth it to get that butterfly removed! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Justin
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98 12V QC, 282,000 +, 5 Speed, with a few power enhancements
SOLD
2000 F-350 XLT CC SRW CC PSD, 249,000+Miles, 6 Speed trans with Luk Con-O-FE clutch, 4" ATS Straight piped, Tymar style intake, Ready to start modding.
Meridian Motorsports Dyno Jet 5/13/2006
219 HP 457 TQ
SOLD:
Lifted 95 F-350 XLT Crew Cab Srw Lwb Psd, 268,000 + miles, 35*12.50*16.5 Trail Cutter Radial RT,4.10's, BABY SWAMPS, Humped HPOP, Homeade Tymar setup with custom 4" intake, Gutted EBPV, Modified turbo pedistal, 1.0 turbine housing, CTI AIC, Auto Meter Lunar gauges, BDP 5 position chip, Complete Alpine sound system, Automatic, Billet torque converter, Tru Cool 28,000 lb external trans cooler, Bully Dog down pipe, 5" twin turnout stacks, 6.0 intercooler with custom built pipes, Optima red top batteries, Wanting more mods!!! My webshots homepage
Bully Dog Dog Days Of Summer Dyno Pull 7/9/2005
347 hp 660 torque
[ QUOTE ]
I ended up using a small end wrench and put a bar against it and hit the bar with a hammer to get mine loose. It was a PITA! Best of luck it will be worth it to get that butterfly removed! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Justin
[/ QUOTE ]
+1
From memory, there were frequent posts about this several years ago. Mine came off easy, using a 5/16" combo wrench- box end on the bolt in question, then as described above, while leaning over the engine, place a piece of pipe (like 1/2" - 1" water pipe, about 1' long or so, but anything will do) over the open end and hit w/ hammer to break it loose. Once started, it's easy. I did the EBPV gutting in less than 30 min, including a reduction in the freeze plug diameter by a few 1000ths so it could be pounded in. Surprised me how quick it went.
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'96 PSD CC XLT DRW E4OD, TYMAR intake, 75HP Diesel Power Chip, 4" exhaust, Joe Servo IDM.
'05 Excursion Limited. Stock (For now).
I found mine was not a 5/16, but a 8mm. I soaked it in liquid wrench, then broke it with a closed in wrench with another wrench(like a 3/4) slipped down over the top for a pry bar. Once it broke, i used a ratchet wrench
On ALL I have ever done, The 5 /16 just fits tighter and has less chance of stripping off the bolt head.
__________________
2006 F250 CrewCab Lariat FX4 6.OH AFE, MBRP SS Cool Duals, Elite SCT, 4 Up the pillar, Bed Rug and Retrax Lockable cover.
1997 F350 CrewCab XLT 4x4. ?hp/?lb-ft Intercooled, BTS Trans, BTS Dual HPOP, Big Full Force Diesel Jectors, Big Turbo, Ford AIC, Rockin S Custom 5 inch Exhaust w/AeroTurbine Muffler, AFE Stage II Intake, Total Diesel Performance 4 Positon Chip, White Face Gauges,
1979 F250 SC Lariat 4X4 5.9 CTD, BTS E40D, Dana 60/Sterling 10.25, SD HydroBoost brakes, 440HP 992lb-ft, Intercooled, BFG All Terrains on Eagle Alloy 102s. Custom Rockin S Dual stack Exhaust system. DDP Stage IV injectors, HTB2 Turbo, Snow Water/Meth injection My Webshots page
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I ended up using a small end wrench and put a bar against it and hit the bar with a hammer to get mine loose. It was a PITA! Best of luck it will be worth it to get that butterfly removed! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Justin
[/ QUOTE ]
+1
From memory, there were frequent posts about this several years ago. Mine came off easy, using a 5/16" combo wrench- box end on the bolt in question, then as described above, while leaning over the engine, place a piece of pipe (like 1/2" - 1" water pipe, about 1' long or so, but anything will do) over the open end and hit w/ hammer to break it loose. Once started, it's easy. I did the EBPV gutting in less than 30 min, including a reduction in the freeze plug diameter by a few 1000ths so it could be pounded in. Surprised me how quick it went.
[/ QUOTE ]
Did mine the same way. Used some P-B Blaster, let it soak for 30 min and used the method above. Another way of doing, is start the truck up, get everything hot then try the above method.
Oh yea, don't get burnt [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ]
I found mine was not a 5/16, but a 8mm. I soaked it in liquid wrench, then broke it with a closed in wrench with another wrench(like a 3/4) slipped down over the top for a pry bar. Once it broke, i used a ratchet wrench
[/ QUOTE ]
Bingo!
Soak and use stubby 8mm boxed end. Use another tool such as larger wrench to add leverage. The stubbys are short but very beefy. If the bolt is frozen, it will be frozen at the bolt head flange, not in the threads.
I use BP Blaster on about everything.
Rick H...
__________________ Omaha Metro Powerstroke Diesel Club
Pres Omaha Metro PSD Club Biodiesel Calculator
HIS
96 F250 4x4 auto super cab.
TS 4 Pos Chip, addaLeaf, Boss 8'-6" plow, , DIY AIC, Tymar DP, gutted EBPV, JS IDM, Tymar Intake, 4" Open exhaust, trio a-pillar gauges + 6 overhead gauges. TruCool 4590 Tran Cooler. On board air with dual horns. 4 corner strobes. AC mod with Twist, ISSPro Turbo Temp Monitor, Power Pedel mod, turbo ped mod, Warn Lock-outs, Swamps 175/173 99 IC & GTS Pipe Kit,Snow Performance Water/Meth inj (NOT hooked up!), chicken to use it!
Garmin GPS,Toughbook Laptop, All Mode Ham Radio.
HERS
97 F250 CC SWB 100% stock and going to stay that way! I lied, Shimmed, Tymar Intake. I lied again, kat dead! More lies.. 3" DP, Gutted EBPV, Turbo Pedistal Mod. Dyno'd 263 hp [color:"RED"] RDRCM#20 [/color]
[ QUOTE ]
I found mine was not a 5/16, but a 8mm. I soaked it in liquid wrench, then broke it with a closed in wrench with another wrench(like a 3/4) slipped down over the top for a pry bar. Once it broke, i used a ratchet wrench
[/ QUOTE ]
Bingo!
Soak and use stubby 8mm boxed end. Use another tool such as larger wrench to add leverage. The stubbys are short but very beefy. If the bolt is frozen, it will be frozen at the bolt head flange, not in the threads.
I use BP Blaster on about everything.
Rick H...
__________________ Omaha Metro Powerstroke Diesel Club
Pres Omaha Metro PSD Club Biodiesel Calculator
HIS
96 F250 4x4 auto super cab.
TS 4 Pos Chip, addaLeaf, Boss 8'-6" plow, , DIY AIC, Tymar DP, gutted EBPV, JS IDM, Tymar Intake, 4" Open exhaust, trio a-pillar gauges + 6 overhead gauges. TruCool 4590 Tran Cooler. On board air with dual horns. 4 corner strobes. AC mod with Twist, ISSPro Turbo Temp Monitor, Power Pedel mod, turbo ped mod, Warn Lock-outs, Swamps 175/173 99 IC & GTS Pipe Kit,Snow Performance Water/Meth inj (NOT hooked up!), chicken to use it!
Garmin GPS,Toughbook Laptop, All Mode Ham Radio.
HERS
97 F250 CC SWB 100% stock and going to stay that way! I lied, Shimmed, Tymar Intake. I lied again, kat dead! More lies.. 3" DP, Gutted EBPV, Turbo Pedistal Mod. Dyno'd 263 hp [color:"RED"] RDRCM#20 [/color]
Using a 20mm freeze plug, it was a hair too big to fit. A ridge even formed at the contact point with the hole in the EBPV. So, holding it like a coin between thumb and middle finger, I applied my Dremel w/ stone at an angle, causing the plug to spin slowly between finger & thumb and allow an even amount to be removed from the outside diameter. Pounded in securely after. Has lasted >30K miles without problems.
Freeze plugs are cheaply pressed from sheet and not always the perfect diameter.
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'96 PSD CC XLT DRW E4OD, TYMAR intake, 75HP Diesel Power Chip, 4" exhaust, Joe Servo IDM.
'05 Excursion Limited. Stock (For now).
I was just curios. I never once had to reduce the size of the Freeze plugs I use.
__________________
2006 F250 CrewCab Lariat FX4 6.OH AFE, MBRP SS Cool Duals, Elite SCT, 4 Up the pillar, Bed Rug and Retrax Lockable cover.
1997 F350 CrewCab XLT 4x4. ?hp/?lb-ft Intercooled, BTS Trans, BTS Dual HPOP, Big Full Force Diesel Jectors, Big Turbo, Ford AIC, Rockin S Custom 5 inch Exhaust w/AeroTurbine Muffler, AFE Stage II Intake, Total Diesel Performance 4 Positon Chip, White Face Gauges,
1979 F250 SC Lariat 4X4 5.9 CTD, BTS E40D, Dana 60/Sterling 10.25, SD HydroBoost brakes, 440HP 992lb-ft, Intercooled, BFG All Terrains on Eagle Alloy 102s. Custom Rockin S Dual stack Exhaust system. DDP Stage IV injectors, HTB2 Turbo, Snow Water/Meth injection My Webshots page
Linear Mode
