Help w/clutch install

[BuckshotRam]

My 95 F-SuperDuty 15kgvw needs a clutch....dmf rattling pretty good hear it chattering quite frequent.

Ive had a Southbend Con O 350hp clutch, pressureplate, flywheel and throwout bearing sitting at my house for 6 months. I have a landscape company and the truck is my dumptruck. Going to have a some rain the next few days so I might as well go ahead and put it in now b4 I start using it more during spring/summer.

Would someone like to walk me through this, any tips tricks ect. I have a couple friends that are going to help and are better mechanics than myself. But im wanting to learn also....Truck is 2wd, ZF5 with a pto for the dumpbed attached. While im at it im going to tackle new up-pipes and gaskets (they leak terrible, sounds like a 460 gas truck w/exhaust leak haha). I also want to change the trans fluid.

What brand/how much fluid is required?

Also from what I understand the park brake is different on the 15k gvw superduty's. Doesn't something on it need to be serviced as well.

Would someone like to start at #1 drain trans fluid, #2 remove shifter, #3 remove driveshaft #4, #5, #6 and so on... many thanks if you can

Any tips on the up pipes would be nice too....im going to put some pics up also of what im dealing with.....when it gets daylight...

[BuckshotRam]

I saw my notes where I had wrote Mercron V for the trans fluid anybody remeber how many quarts?

Here's some pics of what im dealing with

[BuckshotRam]

Im so lucky looks like the pinion seal's leaking too.....

Would anybody have a clue where to look for u-joints for the pto shaft they are pretty loose.

[Patrick Feeley]

Your on the right track with your plan. 2wd are fairly straightforward. Use a tranny jack if you have access to one! Biggest tip for me was to use a couple of the old flywheel bolts (cut the heads off) as dowels to hold the new flywheel up while installing the new bolts (flywheel is hard to hold up with one hand!). Use a synthetic ATF in the trans (Mobil 1 for example), 4 quarts throgh the shifter hole. Cheers!

[Squid63]

PTO joints should be available at your local NAPA or truck supply store. You might need to take the shaft in there to match something up, or take a joint out.

[Snowtow]

Ignore the clutch fork replacement part of this article as it was problematic int he '99 and up PSD. This assumes you're going to a SMFW replacing the DMFW.

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

[96strokerlb]

See if i can get this right....haha i havent had the luxory of doing uppipes yet though...

1 - Remove Plug Drain Fluids
2 - While Draing remove any skid plate parts you might have
3 - Remove Slave Cylinder a crow bar or nice big flat head screwdriver works to pry it off
4 - Remove PTO shaft "never have saw one so i dont know what it takes"
5 - Remove rear driveshaft
6 - Remove 2 nuts from crossmember that hold tranny mount to it 3/4 or 18 or 19mm some where in there
7 - Go up top now remove shifter assembly 2 10mm bolts
8 - Go back under lift tranny some and remove cross member umm 12 bolts/nuts total there... bolts are 15mm i think nuts are....17 or 18 been while since my trans swap
9 - Find a way if it makes you feel safer to support the engine and let trans come down to say a 35' angle
10 - Take the 3...3/4? bolts out of the starter and hang it up out of the way
11 - Now start at the top of the trans and take the 18mm tranny bolts out 6 total i beleive "have transmission supported so it doesnt rest on the input shaft when bolts are out"
12 - If you have a tranny jack "very good idea to rent/borrow" rock the transmission gently from side to side pulling it backwards at same time. and by gently i dont mean baby gently just not like ur shakin the dice at the bar ;>
13 - lower tranny down...slide it towards back of truck to make room for clutch work
14 - Take out pressure plate bolts. heres the key part!!!! DONT DROP IT!!! it hurts ;> take out 1 of the upper bolts last so it doesnt swing around and hit you also ive had both dropping and swing hits it hurts alot...
15 - throw those parts in the trash where ford should have put them
16 - Take out the ...8 flywheel bolts and another on here..dont drop it either
17 - look at your friends ready to ring your neck as its reverse of tear down time and step #1 was wrong.... and in there heads there going this dumb $#@$ didnt get us any beer
18 - run for your life!

well theres everything i can think of hope i didnt miss anything....

Fluid ied order Redline MTL from summit i beleive carrys it alot of people on here swear by it
powerstrokeshop.com might be a good place to look for new parts and good prices

as for uppipe/brake work have to wait for someone more experienced then me to drop in or search the boards some.

[BuckshotRam]

THANKS THANKS THANKS EVERYBODY

Somebody talk me into or out of replacing the rear main seal, ive heard that they don't give to much truble in these trucks and mines not leaking....leave well enough alone or go ahead while ive got everything out. Trucks got 156k on it but with 5:13 gear its seen some rpms in its day....Local ford place wanted $76 for a rear main and they have to order it. What's yall's thoughts on that? Money kinda tight right now but.....

[BuckshotRam]

Had to do some cleaning at a friends shop just to get the truck in but once its on the lift you can't beat it. Going to order a rear main and pinion seal tomorrow and try to get trans removed and up-pipes put in. Then friday rear main, clutch, and put trans back in, might tackle the pinion seal too.

[96strokerlb]

if you go to powerstrokehelp.com the guy who runs it is a long time stroker mechanic and he claims that the strokers rear main almost never go bad...ied spend that 76 bucks on some extra beer or take the wifey/gf and well nowa days maybe even the BF out for some fine dining ;> gota be politicaly correct yaknow... and just to be an ass i mean comon its 4am but in your sig...its coolant ;> haha

[BuckshotRam]

Originally Posted by 96strokerlb

if you go to powerstrokehelp.com the guy who runs it is a long time stroker mechanic and he claims that the strokers rear main almost never go bad...ied spend that 76 bucks on some extra beer or take the wifey/gf and well nowa days maybe even the BF out for some fine dining ;> gota be politicaly correct yaknow... and just to be an ass i mean comon its 4am but in your sig...its coolant ;> haha

Haha I don't spelt no good....yeah I spent a whole night a few weeks ago watching all his video's...he knows his stuff about the rear mains hardly ever goin out and just leaks from the valley. I found one in stock for $60 at another dealer picked it up a lil bit ago. The guy's shop I'm using had his 97 psd leak at the rear main and said he would help me so I guess we are about to fix something till it breaks. I travel across alot of nice driveways doin landscape work and I can't be leakin any oil. Thanks for all the help I'm gonna keep this updated with the progress.
Anybody changed a pinion seal on a Dana 80 HD 10 lug truck before?

[Patrick Feeley]

If it wasn't mentioned: It's much easier to get the tranny input shaft clear of the clutch and lowered if you remove the shifter stub from the tranny (4 bolts on the cover from inside the cab after removing the trim and boot). Just don't drop the white rectangular shifter pivot bushings into the tranny. Also, take a look at your clutch release lever for wear (they weren't a problem on our trucks as mentioned) since they are only $20 or so to replace. Do the uppipes/donuts with the tranny out of the way!!!! They are straightforward to replace (just a pain). Cheers!

[BuckshotRam]

Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley

If it wasn't mentioned: It's much easier to get the tranny input shaft clear of the clutch and lowered if you remove the shifter stub from the tranny (4 bolts on the cover from inside the cab after removing the trim and boot). Just don't drop the white rectangular shifter pivot bushings into the tranny. Also, take a look at your clutch release lever for wear (they weren't a problem on our trucks as mentioned) since they are only $20 or so to replace. Do the uppipes/donuts with the tranny out of the way!!!! They are straightforward to replace (just a pain). Cheers!

Now Im told about the bolts, had to put cross member back in and take off trans jack to let back down to the ground. Im going to check the clutch release lever too.

My observations.....Fluid was dirty dirty smelled a little burnt, 5 of the 6 springs in the flexplate were broken, guess that could explan the rattling. It was in pretty bad shape. Rear main wasn't leaking but did have some seepage, could of made it a while longer, its off now. One up pipe is leaking and one has a small slice in it where it looks like the previous owner did some grinding to make way for the 3"down pipe.

Here's some pic's I took thisevening

[BuckshotRam]

Got rear main out, 1/2 the up-pipe bolts loose, hit the other's with more wd-40 hopefully they will come out without the torch. Still got a little more cleaning to do around the rear main, (how clean does it need to be?) It came with the same "IH/Ford the toughest silicone I have ever seen".

I need to get locktight, new bolts 4 the up pipes, pto u-joints (they are on a square 1" size shaft looks like tractor supply should have them)

I also need to do something about fluid....I dont think I can get redline local I can wait a few day's to get it, Its a heavy 9100# dump truck that is either pulling a 6000ish pound trailor or hauling dirt, mulch ect. What would be the best for my aplication.

MTL says its a 80w90w manual trans oil, I thought ZF5 needed Merc V??

[patrick_97]

Please keep us posted with the update after installation. very interesting thread.