homemade air intake. Which filter to use??

[ohiopsdx17]

Which filters will work that are farely cheap and easy to get.

[ohiopsdx17]

found one. Advance auto parts for 24.95 made by american products. I will give the part number later.

[brahamfireman]

Napa part number 46637 is the one from the tymar kit.

Diesel Rod

[edieedie]

are you useing a 4" pipe?

[ohiopsdx17]

Purolator filter which was 18$. I went to advance auto parts and I opened every big box I could find in the air filter aisle and I found it. If you want the part number I will have to give it to you tomorow and as for the 4" pipe, well the local bus garage for the school district has a huge supply of it and they throw the hole ehaust out when one tiny part gets rusty. It was a 3 1/2" ID but with a little work with a grinder and hammer I got the pipe just small enough that I could force it into the filter to the point where I would have to cut the filter to get it back out. The truck runs awesome now and even gives a little puff of smoke. So far cheapest and best mod I have done.

[Dale I]

Originally Posted by brahamfireman

Napa part number 46637 is the one from the tymar kit.

The NAPA filter is NOT the one we use at Tymar Performance. In correct application these filters are housed in an air box that incorporates a contaminant dam, which will separate out heavy components (specifically water, snow, etc). When using these filters in an open environment you will want to verify that the element is hydrophobic (water resistant) since the ability for water, snow, etc, to impact the element without a contaminant dam is almost a given.

Wix was purchased 8 years ago and then repurchased 5 years ago. They no longer make their own filters in this class of element. In short, you might get a Puroloator, Fram, Baldwin, Donaldson, Fleetgaurd, etc, etc, and you just don't know what will be in the Wix box.

Don't take a chance with your truck and purchase a Donaldson filter. They use a patented polymer filter weave that is hydrophobic to 10"h2o. The last thing you want is to raise restriction by loading your filter element with water (at best) or damage the element (at worst).

As well, you will want to make sure your isolating engine vibration to the filter since you are bridging from the engine to the body. Remember to use constant torque clamps. And make sure you have the proper minimal radial clearance so you receive the low restriction that will actually do something for you.

Nothing against your attempt, but placing the element in the underhood air flow stream like that and using a non-hydrophobic filter is a recipe for trouble. I'll let the the rest of the concerns over this install pass by, except for the zip ties. Since you haven't isolated engine viabration, you don't want to open your hood to find your filter sitting there by itself. Try to form a good mounting system with the filter out of the air flow stream and you will be thanking yourself many times over.

A side note: If it wasn't puffing black smoke before and is now, you have hurt yourself. Black smoke is unburned fuel. If you raised the restriction and are not able to take enough air in, thus reducing your ability to burn the diesel fuel you are giving the engine, you end up with black smoke. Less power.

[ohiopsdx17]

I was planning on moving the battery and making an air box out of sheet metal when school resumes. I don't believe it is restricting because my old filter was wet and completely trashed and it runs much better with the new one. That stock air box pretty much just funneled the water in when I would have to go places that were kinda deep. I also had a few exhaust leaks that I fixed so maybe I just wasn't guiding the smoke right??

[brahamfireman]

Originally Posted by Dale I

The NAPA filter is NOT the one we use at Tymar Performance.

I was misinformed then, I apologize Dale. having personaly delt I wouldn't undermine you on purpose.

what is different about the Tymar one, is it not hydrophobic???

Diesel Rod

[Griz]

Originally Posted by brahamfireman

I was misinformed then, I apologize Dale. having personaly delt I wouldn't undermine you on purpose.

what is different about the Tymar one, is it not hydrophobic???

Diesel Rod

I think what Dale was saying to everyone who wants to DIY is to make sure your filter is hydrophobic. I personally bought Dale's Tymar setup because I knew he had done the R&D and what little I would save wasn't worth the time and money to me.

Griz

[Dale I]

No worries, I didn't feel undermined and I hope I didn't offend either. I just wanted to clear up that, Griz is right, you NEED hydrophobic (water resistant) filters to use an element in an open environment. I use a Donaldson B085011 element because it is rated with hydrophobic capability.

For ohiopsdx17: You might want to consider running an open element instead on enclosing your filter in an air box. Any time you direct air flow, you increase restriction. Any increase in intake restriction reduces turbine efficiency. The goal should be to reduce restriction and increase efficiency.

Most attempts at routing cold air (should be ambient air, there is no such thing as "cold air") usually center on air density. First, a turbocharged diesel is not as susceptible to air density as a gasser motor.

Second, and more importantly, if you think of your turbo as an air densifier (because the more boost pressure you create the more dense the air is compressed), the question isn't can we get more dense air... the question should be are we overcoming the density loss by taking hotter air in with the additional compression we realize from the low restriction supply to the turbo.

In short, you do. By reducing the restriction with an open element, you offset the heat dissipated density and actually gain additional volume you couldn't realize otherwise. I could get into the thermodynamic numbers if you wish, I just thought the post was long enough as it is....

Let me know if you would like additional information.

[Powerstroke2000]

Great to see you keeping everyone in the "know" Dale! Great free information for those who are interested in the proper air-intake solution for our OBS 7.3 Powerstrokes indeed.

Thanks for your input Mr. Tymar!

Dale