Re: How hard would it be to change gears in a Dana 60?
Well you start by:
-Removing the tires
-Take the hubs apart
-Hang the brake caliper away
-Take the hub and disc off
-Seperate the spindle from the knuckle
-Remove steering rods away from front of D60 cover
-Open the D60 cover and drain the fluid
-Slide the axles out
-Take the carrier bearing caps off
-Take the carrier/ring gear out
-Remove the front drive shaft
-Remove the Pinion nut
-Knock the pinion shaft in
Now you have a stripped D60 housing. Don't loose any of the shims. There is set of shims on the pinion shaft and another set behind the inner pinion race.
Now comes the fun part. Do you install new axles, new seals, new bearings/races, locker/limited slip, etc. Change ball joints (your already there, whether you need to or not, they'll probably go when you put everything back together) Only your $$$$ flow will decide that. I would definitely install new seals. Dana/Spicer came out with new axle seals, awesome looking, the sealing surface is approximately 1.5" wide and double sealing area in the housing.
And when you assembling everything that could be exposed to the weather- ANTI-SIEZE
'97 Black F250HD,XLT, SC, LB, 4x4, D66, Punisher Trans with Precision Converter, Dana 60, 3.55LS, built 12/97, 3"-4" DP, Bilstein 5125s, VDO EGT, Trans Temp, and Boost gauges, Hellwig rear swaybar, CA fuel regulator, 4" Exhaust-Straight piped,FORD AIC, welded EBPV, B&M Transpan,, Joe Servo IDM, MAP sensor mod, RSK w/ "V" & "F" code SD springs, Hydroboost conversion, replacement 38 gal rear tank, Swamp's Baby Hybrids, Jonathan Jones Tunes, CJC Traction blocks, 227K