Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and AftermarketUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.
just dont look at your electric meter when that is on-----!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
Is there something wrong with your stock block heater?
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
Is there something wrong with your stock block heater?
No, it works perfect but in the "cold country" like -20 to -50 below it is way insufficient.
It only heats the one bank pretty good and the other OK, in normal conditions. In this cold weather it is not nearly enough.
My entire engine and engine compartment will be warm at -50 below.
The oil pump to the injectors is very important to get plenty of heat too as are both heads and the oil.
I'm putting synthetic 5 -40 oil in the motor and synthetic transmission fluid in the automatic transmission and synthetic rear end grease in the differential and then and putting a magnet heater on both the tranny and motor oil pans.
I'm trying to keep this thing alive while it sits outside in the cold.
I will also idle a lot with the RPM's raised several hundred RPM's with a prop between the gas peddle and seat to do this.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
-20 to -50? I knew i lived in the south for a reason...i think that's it...
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
2006 F350 CC LWB Dually XLT Oxford white manual 4x4 6.0 PSD 6 speed. 4.10 LS front and rear, Built May05. 4" turbo back, 55 gal aux fuel tank. A real pig from a stop, give me 15' and she'll slowly come to life, then watch out!
165K miles, 12 injectors, EGR cooler, Fuel pump, 8 glow plugs, GPCM, FICM rebuilt FoMoCo engine at 150K under 7/200 warranty.
A 2000V heater is something to brag about alright. Where did you find a 2000V outlet to power it?
Watts I guess that is, sorry about that.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
I'll know more in the morning but I think this is going to heat everything "except" the radiator. I was told to make sure to unplug it before I start it for that very reason.
That is a little secret everybody should know about there 7.3 block heater. Unplug it before you start the motor or the cold water hitting the element will eventually or even quickly ruin it.
I'm very concerned about the ice cold water hitting my engine and ruining it. A very real concern. -- Once and you got nothing.
Survival is this cold country is at play here.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
Last edited by midwestconnection; 11-11-2009 at 07:37 AM.
I know that i am comparing apples to oranges here, but bare with me. Think of NASCAR for a second. When the cars are lined up in their starting position on pit road, just prior to the green rag, the teams circulate the oil through portable heaters and back into the engine. For different reasons of course. Key word..circulate. Maybe that method would apply in your case. Just a thought.
Have you thought of using your stock block heater in conjuction with your aftermarket heater?
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
Several years ago I worked for powerline construction equipment company. We had a tech that stayed on site for a large customer somewhere north where temps stay below 0. He had a setup on his service truck with heater hoses running to the service bed with heater cores he put in the tool compartments. He had block heaters and maybe hose? heaters hooked with some kind of low volumn pump that kept the coolant circulated through the whole heater system and service bed. Made his tools somewhat easier to handle (if only temporary till they were outside a few minutes) but also made his service manuals easier to handle. I never got to see it, he always flew home for short periods w/o the truck. But it sounded like the cat's meow. We were in Louisiana, so we've never seen cold like that.
Deceased--1990 F350 2wd DRW Super Cab E4OD 7.3l IDI
Gooseneck hitch, Flowmaster (single inlet/dual out), 60 gal tank/toolbox/bedrails/headache rack (custom built, welded together as 1 unit), 3 gauge pillar pod w/glowshift gauges, oil, water temp, trans temp
Never ask "What else can go wrong?" cause something will.
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