Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and AftermarketUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.
well im finally getting around to doing my injectors this friday. i got stage 1s from jim at rosewood and did the machining myself with a set of stock pistions. so i think friday im going to pull my injectors and do them. that brings me to my question (i no its been asked thousands of times but i just dont want any surrises)are there any special things i should know about doing this? should i worry aout the fuel going into the oil if i pull the glow plugs and crank it and contaminating it? if i change it right after i do the swap will it be ok because i know what fuel in the oil can do. thanks
go to Beans' sites and go to his injector sales for 94-97s and he has a spot to read the directions, make sure to pull the one closest to the firewall in each side first. On the passenger side pull the little heater box off (its under the heat wrap) itll make getting the passenger vc off easier. When I purged the oil/fuel out of the cylinders I put the vc back on (no vc gaskets) put 3-4 nuts in and cranked that way all the oil and such doesnt go flying out, wiped em clean and did it again. Dont get worried when it takes a while to fire up, I had 3-4 20-30 second goes trying to start it, then a big cloud of gray smoke some cackling and its been great ever since, just remember to give the starter a break.
Dan
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1997 PSD #34 15.093 @ 88.63mph(on BDPstage1s) Beans electric fuel, H2E FFD 230cc stroked acodes TWildman 6 position Tymar intake, 17*hpop, IDM mod, diamond back 4" turbo back dual exhaust (SD DP), Arp studs, comp valvesprings, 7.3 intercooler, Rough Country 4" lift, 315 Cepeks FC 2 on MT classics, Bdog electrolum gauges (pre/post turbo pyro), E4OD auto, 4.10LS, TC LU w/ ind light, CCV mod, Richter69 TC and accum body, 203* tstat, clear turn signals, toolbox light, ford manual hub conv., ext trim gone.
Highest hp 362, highest tq 723 corrected onstage 1s
future mods: bigoil, 2nd fuelpump
Work truck: 03 7.3 excab lb F250
New Family rig: 2002 7.3 Excursion edge evo II, mbrp 4" tb exhaust, tymar intake Big_Dan97's Photos
I blew mine out that way and my next Blackstone did not show any fuel in the oil sample. I may have been lucky...
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Kurt
SOLD!!
1997 F350 XL PowerStroke 4WD, ZF-5 w/ South Bend Con OFE Clutch
Regular Cab, Long Bed, SRW, 3L55's, Bilstein shocks, Warn premium hubs
3-inch downpipe/4 inch exhaust w/ Magnaflow muffler and cat
Tymar intake
International Water Pump with integrated filter
Wildman Four-Position Chip; Baby Swamps; D66 turbo with 1.00 housing; SD HPOP
Isspro EV Boost and Pyrometer gauges
285/75R16 E-Rated BFG All Terrain KO's
Rear Disc Brakes from Blackbirds Custom Trucks Pictures of it all...
make sure you turn the motor over BY HAND 3x before using teh starter to crank it over. As you are buttoning it up remove teh #9 fuse and crank it every few minutes for 5 seconds, then before start, turn the key on with teh injector relay removed( 2nd one) adn crank it for 3 sec only , to build oil pressure, then power it up adn crank it for 20 sec, then til it starts. You should have a battery charger handy to keep the volts up.
__________________ Sold to JCart , 1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Presicion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, Swamp 140cc injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, ,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,she's well taken care of now pictures
2004 Dodge 3500 twin turbo 525hp rocket
As long as you do a good job getting the stuff out of the cylenders you shouldn't have to worry about cranking it by hand. I usually just jump the terminals on the relay on the pass. side fender well to crank it rather than messing with all the fuses/relays. After I get all the injectors in and oil rail plugs back in other than the forward most one on each side outer rail I'll crank it for 20-30 seconds at a time until I see oil start comming out the plug holes. Then put the plugs back in and crank it some more. I usually crank it for a bit then start putting more back together then crank it again. That way the oil is being purged while I'm working and I don't have to spend a bunch of time at the end cranking getting the starter hot. Once everything is together and I've got 2 or 3 30 second crank cycles on it I crank it over with the key and it usually fires right up after another 20-30 seconds or so.
I'm never that confident that I've gotten everything out. It takes only a minute to turn it over by hand with the glowplugs out. Then I spin it with the starter (GPs out also). Cheers!
If you just bump it over with the starter and it does have a bunch of fluid in one hole it isn't going to hurt anything. Pulling glow plugs can be a pain and is an unneessary step but if you are not confident enough in your work of getting the fluid out by all means take the extra step. It's better to be safe than to be sorry.
I'll have to respectfully disagree here. There is not a lot of volume in the cylinder at TDC and it doesn't take much fluid (even if only in one cylinder) to hydrolock it. There have been numerous folks that have found out the hard way (bent rod, etc.). Especially on hole #8 (where a lot of it drains to). Cheers!
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If you just bump it over with the starter and it does have a bunch of fluid in one hole it isn't going to hurt anything. Pulling glow plugs can be a pain and is an unneessary step but if you are not confident enough in your work of getting the fluid out by all means take the extra step. It's better to be safe than to be sorry.
[/ QUOTE ] As a service guy at a local diesel shop and installer of many set of injectors here recently, I have pulled oil rail plugs and had good results .But in a real every day hurry up world it is way easier to just yank the glow plugs and pull the injectors out and spin her over. At the shop I was at it was policy to check compression.An injector will not fix a truck with a weak hole it just pisses the customer off to have spent money on a squirter when they could have waited or put in a new motor.
Just my .02 cents
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97 F-250 H/D 4 door 4X4 6'bed.Broke block building new engine! Oh well it ran14.96 at 89mph at Baytown!
Kenworth T-600 aerodyne 3406c CAT, with 18* "B" modle injection pump(was a freakin peak yuk),10 over trans,4.10 rears,Dual 150 gal. fuel tanks,Budwieser inspired custom hot rod flames.Going to work real soon Leasing to Landstar yeah!
89 mustang coupe single turbo 302 ,built c-4,running little rubber.
I hate Dodges, straight piped common rail cummings sound like crap!
aljay, If shop policy is to do a comp test then by all means you already have the glow plugs out so spin 'er over!
Patric, I've done several sets of injectors and if you have the right tools to get the job done then I guess it isn't an issue. I can't think of one truck that I had to pull a glow plug out of to spin over. If you just rip on it then yeah you could bend a rod if there is still a lot of fluid left in the cylender. That's why I said to bump it over. If you just bump the starter either with the key or a starter button hooked to the solenoid or just jump the terminals on the solenoid with a screw driver the engine isn't going to have enough momentum to dammage anything. Just bump it a few times until you get at least two revolutions out of it and if it all spins over fine then you're good to go. Obviously draining the rails at the inner drain plugs helps get most of the oil out before you pull the injectors.
speeddiesel, if you just spin it with the starter you are takign a very big chance taht you will tweak a rod. I have replace many sets of injectors and a couple of motors as well, you must spin it by hand you take a huge risk, the motor is a vee if oil is on top of the piston then it will hit the head as they are flat. I studied thsi extensively after the last motor broke 2 rods.
__________________ Sold to JCart , 1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Presicion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, Swamp 140cc injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, ,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,she's well taken care of now pictures
2004 Dodge 3500 twin turbo 525hp rocket
Well like I said if you just let 'er rip then yeah. If you bump it SLOWLY you have nothing to wory about. I have a small steel tube I use and attach it to a power brake bleeder and it gets pretty much everything but the last bit of film out. Even if you don't get it all out and just bump the engine over very slowly it will NOT hurt anything. It will come up on that cylender and not turn. What bends rods is the momentum of the engine spinning over before it comes up on that cylender. The starter doesn't have enough torque to actually bend a rod by itself.
BTW Nit I don't see that you are a site sponsor under your name but I see you are advertizing your business in your sig. How is it you get away with that while others get banned for it?
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...But in a real every day hurry up world it is way easier to just yank the glow plugs and pull the injectors out and spin her over.
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Aljay, you know that in a hurry up world it's not a good idea to spin it over without any injectors in it, right? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
Speed,
Nit doesn't actually link to any business that he's trying to promote. He's done a lot of work to his truck and can call himself whatever he wants.
It's like if I built a set of twin turbos, or I don't know, triple turbos, for my truck, I could say "Home of Jim's Turbo Shop."
I don't have a turbo shop, or even want to build or sell turbos for people.
It just doesn't mean anything.
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Also, on topic, it's not always the easiest thing to get old glowplugs out of their holes. And I'm one to use the starter to 'ease' the crank to turn over and push the fluid out of the valves when they open. That's after vacuuming out the cylinders as best I can.
At least till it burns me! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]
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Black, '96, F-350, 4x4, Day Cab.
Black/Silver, '97, F-350, 4x4, CC Short Bed. DzlJim.com for some redneck engineered projects.
I just installed a nylon tube in my shop vac and sucked the fluids off the pistons.I then waited about thirty minutes and did it again.No problems other than the usual long crank times.I bought a rubber cork to fit my shop vac hose,drilled a hole in it for the nylon hose and it worked like a charm.For peace of mind you could turn it over by hand but I didn't.Good luck with it,Calvin
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1996 F-250 2wd, ext.cab,short bed,auto trans.,3:55 ratio,3 inch DPP down pipe,4 inch stainless Magnaflow exhaust,"Baby Swamps",TS performance 4 position chip,Tymar air filter, coolant filter, and HPX hose.Autometer gauges(pyro.,trans.temp.,and boost),California FPR kit,gutted and plugged EBPV,ported hood & bug shield,203 Dieselsite thermostat, Extreme spray in bed liner,Wade bed caps,UAW black diamond plate under rail tool box,4R100 trans.pan & filter,LARGE Hayden trans.cooler,Diamond headlights,park lights and side marker lights,Mustang GT hood scoop,Clarion CD player,Kenwood speakers.Billet Torque converter,Extreme duty trans.build with Transgo "Tugger" kit,Banks Technicooler,CCV Mod..
well the next tiem you take a head off teh motor have a look at treh pistons, what you vacuum out is the oil in teh dish you can not get to the top of the piston and it has almost 0" clearance to teh head which is flat. I have a vacuum suction pot that I use, it si very powerful but still can not get to thsi area, so really your jsut fooling yourself, others adn taking risks.
PS CPD is part of another company I run and have yet to have anyone from thsi board as a customer of it, hell I only have 15 customers in total, most are my friends.
__________________ Sold to JCart , 1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Presicion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, Swamp 140cc injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, ,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,she's well taken care of now pictures
2004 Dodge 3500 twin turbo 525hp rocket
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