got the injecters in. hand cranked engine with glow plugs out. put the GP's back in and quit for the night(wasnt easy). can someone help me with two questions? 1 whats the best way to add oil back to the heads? the plugs on top of the oil rail dont look very easy to add oil to. 2 how do you know when you have fuel to the injecters? dont want to damage a nozzle. thanks, kevin
__________________
<span style="color: #000099"> 96 F-250 CREWCAB POWERSTROKE... Stage 1 injectors... 6 position Tony Wildman chip: stock, economy, daily, tow, hot tow, & Luke Cline Extreme... Superduty IDM mod... Tymar intake... Tymar 3"X4" down pipe... Tymar 4" exhaust... Tymar high pressure oil crossover... 6.0 intercooler-PIPES thanks to GTS... CCV mod... V10 transmission cooler... 203* thermostat... shimmed FPR... gutted EBPV... Monster Box trans... 4.10s... Dana 60 front... LS rear w/ extra qt and a half diff cover... three gauge pod full of Autometer's... AIC... Turbo pedestal mod by Rick96F250 and a 3/8inch shorter bolt on the rear passenger side of the pedestal... Nippondenso starter... THINGS TO DO: get a big turbo, big oil, and big fuel... RSK with SD springs.</span>
Kevin, clean up a squeeze bottle like dish washing liquid comes in and run to one of the auto chain stores and get a small funnel with the small opening.....both will help you control the mess....pick the two plugs that have the eaziest access and go @ it slow...don't be concerned about the fuel, it will be there before the hp oil pressure is up enough to fire the injectors... remember the crank cycles, 20-30 second cranks 3-5 minute starter cool...recheck the oil level in the hpop and at least one rail during the first couple of cooling periods...have a battery charger available, your gonna think it ain't never gonna start but it will...once it does it's going to be ragged for a while....before you put the covers on look over the oil spouts and see if your getting oil from all of them, there may not be the same amount due to the air still trapped but some flow from each is a good sign..put her back together and check for leaks and extra parts [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img] ease it around for a few miles and when you are confident you did a good job.....FLOGG THAT BITZH!! and watch that black stuff ROLL!! need about 20 miles of a hard run to get the air out of the system......enjoy the perma-grin........
[ QUOTE ] 1 whats the best way to add oil back to the heads? the plugs on top of the oil rail dont look very easy to add oil to.
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know if this is the correct way but I unplugged the injectors left the oil plugs out of the heads and turned the engine over with a remote starter switch until oil run out of the plug holes.
[ QUOTE ] 2 how do you know when you have fuel to the injecters? dont want to damage a nozzle. thanks, kevin
[/ QUOTE ]
Fill the fuel bowl up with fuel but not to much to squish out when you put the filter in. then I turned the engine over for awhile with the injectors unplugged then I plugged the injectors in and tryed to start. You will have air in the circuit no matter what but these engines are real good about purging themselves. You know you have fuel when it starts.
Again I don't know if this is right but this is the way I did it.
__________________
<span style="color: #000099"> 96 F-250 CREWCAB POWERSTROKE... Stage 1 injectors... 6 position Tony Wildman chip: stock, economy, daily, tow, hot tow, & Luke Cline Extreme... Superduty IDM mod... Tymar intake... Tymar 3"X4" down pipe... Tymar 4" exhaust... Tymar high pressure oil crossover... 6.0 intercooler-PIPES thanks to GTS... CCV mod... V10 transmission cooler... 203* thermostat... shimmed FPR... gutted EBPV... Monster Box trans... 4.10s... Dana 60 front... LS rear w/ extra qt and a half diff cover... three gauge pod full of Autometer's... AIC... Turbo pedestal mod by Rick96F250 and a 3/8inch shorter bolt on the rear passenger side of the pedestal... Nippondenso starter... THINGS TO DO: get a big turbo, big oil, and big fuel... RSK with SD springs.</span>
OR Fill HPOP manually.
Unplug the injectors, do a series of cranks to get fuel to the injectors. Maybe 6 or 8 crank sessions at abotu 10 seconds each. let the starter cool off between cranks. Then plug em back up and do crank sessions again until it starts.
HPOP will fill oil rail up fast cranking can see over 2500 psi.
Rick H...
__________________ Omaha Metro Powerstroke Diesel Club
Pres Omaha Metro PSD Club Biodiesel Calculator
HIS
96 F250 4x4 auto super cab.
TS 4 Pos Chip, addaLeaf, Boss 8'-6" plow, , DIY AIC, Tymar DP, gutted EBPV, JS IDM, Tymar Intake, 4" Open exhaust, trio a-pillar gauges + 6 overhead gauges. TruCool 4590 Tran Cooler. On board air with dual horns. 4 corner strobes. AC mod with Twist, ISSPro Turbo Temp Monitor, Power Pedel mod, turbo ped mod, Warn Lock-outs, Swamps 175/173 99 IC & GTS Pipe Kit,Snow Performance Water/Meth inj (NOT hooked up!), chicken to use it!
Garmin GPS,Toughbook Laptop, All Mode Ham Radio.
HERS
97 F250 CC SWB 100% stock and going to stay that way! I lied, Shimmed, Tymar Intake. I lied again, kat dead! More lies.. 3" DP, Gutted EBPV, Turbo Pedistal Mod. Dyno'd 263 hp [color:"RED"] RDRCM#20 [/color]
When I swapped injectors the last time, I just left the glow plugs out, had the HP oil system buttoned up, and spun it with the starter till the pressure built up. I had AE hooked up monitoring ICP, and watched it build. But even without that you can tell when it pressurizes, because the starter grunts a little bit from the HPOP load. Then we put the GP's in and it fired right off. Took maybe 2 minutes of cranking, and without compression, there's really no load on the starter to have to worry about overheating it.
We didn't even bother topping off the HPOP reservoir or the oil rails.
Worked slick as a whistle. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
I button her up, fill HPOP reservoir and pull the cam sensor plug. Crank for about 2 minutes, plug cam sensor back in, and then Voila', she starts right up. That 2 minutes is with breaks in between, so kind of a bunch of little ones.
ART
__________________
2005 Dodge Durango Limited w/HEMI.
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LT.
great I have plenty of Ideas. I am going to get some oil this morning and then I will jump back on it. I cant wait for the perma grin! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]
__________________
<span style="color: #000099"> 96 F-250 CREWCAB POWERSTROKE... Stage 1 injectors... 6 position Tony Wildman chip: stock, economy, daily, tow, hot tow, & Luke Cline Extreme... Superduty IDM mod... Tymar intake... Tymar 3"X4" down pipe... Tymar 4" exhaust... Tymar high pressure oil crossover... 6.0 intercooler-PIPES thanks to GTS... CCV mod... V10 transmission cooler... 203* thermostat... shimmed FPR... gutted EBPV... Monster Box trans... 4.10s... Dana 60 front... LS rear w/ extra qt and a half diff cover... three gauge pod full of Autometer's... AIC... Turbo pedestal mod by Rick96F250 and a 3/8inch shorter bolt on the rear passenger side of the pedestal... Nippondenso starter... THINGS TO DO: get a big turbo, big oil, and big fuel... RSK with SD springs.</span>
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.