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Limited slip

7K views 37 replies 13 participants last post by  Matt Monmont 
#1 ·
Currently I have axle code 39. 3.55 gears open diff. How difficult is it to put in limited slip on both front and rear? I was thinking tru track I don't have a ton of cash to put towards it.

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#2 ·
Not really difficult, but you need some experience in making sure the ring and pinion gear lash goes back the same as it was. The pinion doesn't have to come out, but you might need a differential case spreader to get the differential bearing preload set correctly. You might also consider investing in a set of bearings that slip on the differential for setup. Otherwise you'll need to pull the bearings back off at least once to get the shims set up correctly. If you don't have experience with differentials, you might want to strongly consider having a shop do it for you.

TruTrac is a good one, but a bit more $$ than some.
 
#3 ·
If I was going to go to the expense of trying to put in a LS diff into a truck I think that I would spend a little bit more and go with a true locker and be done with it.
 
#4 ·
What are you trying to accomplish? What do you need to do that the truck can't right now?
 
#5 ·
I'm looking for more traction when off road a lot of our mountain roads have been demolished by kids and their Toyotas with large ruts. I don't want to get stuck up there. Also for improved traction when its slick in town.

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#6 ·
Then a LSD in the rear should be enough. If you put anything in the front, I'd go with a torque-biasing diff, like the Tru-Trac or TorSen. This thread has brief explanations & links to most types & models of diff.
 
#7 ·
Even a working LS rear end isn't going to help you much in either case.

At best a working LS is not much better than a open rear and not worth the expense and hassle.
 
#9 ·
I'll disagree with this. The factory LS, which does more slipping than limiting, has saved my bacon on many occasions. A low bias LS like the TruTrac is closer to a full locker than it is to an open diff and would definitely make a difference.
 
#8 ·
Somebody say Lincoln locker? Lol

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#13 ·
A locker interferes with steering, so it can be unpredictable. I wouldn't want it in town, or on a narrow mountain road. And a selectable locker is $$$.

Factory LSDs have a poor reputation because they're wearing parts (like the brakes) and most people ignore them. So naturally, they don't have much effect when they're 37 years old with several hundred thousand miles on them.

But the Tru-Trac isn't technically an LSD - it's a torque-biasing diff. An LSD wears every time you turn; the Tru-Trac only wears when you need it, and there are other torque-biasing designs that don't wear. Also: an LSD has a preload that determines its maximum effect; most torque-biasing diffs automatically adjust from 0 (open) to 100% (locked).
 
#14 ·
I appreciate all the info. Sounds like the consensus is that maybe I should leave them the way they are and if I'm concerned about getting stuck maybe a winch could be a better alternative.

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#15 ·
If you have a 4x4 why are you worried about getting stuck? If 4x4 won't get you out a LS rear end isn't going to help.

I have taken my 4x4 into areas that it really should not of been and if 4x4 and just tires isn't enough then I chain it up and go and I have never been stopped, but then I don't try to get stuck either.
 
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#18 ·
Something tells me that your version of four wheeling the OPs are quite different. 4x4 with open diffs is at best 2wd.


Again, a Tru Trac is nothing like a factory or other clutch type limited slip in terms of locking vs slipping. I've had a tire 2' in the air several times and the other on the same axle grabbed and pulled on my Jeep when it had a Tru Trac.


Apples vs oranges comparison.
 
#16 ·
A winch isn't for driving: it won't keep you on the road, or prevent you from getting stuck, or from having a wreck; so that's a whole different issue. Looking back over the thread, only 2 people have said not to get LSD, so that's not the consensus.

Yes, LSDs make a difference, even with 4WD. I've temporarily swapped a stock LSD axle into my Bronco, so I've made a controlled comparison.
 
#17 ·
I'd rather take a LSD over just open diffs.
You can set them up to work well.

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#21 ·
I'm sorry for creating such a debate. I suppose I could always just have bigger tires than the yotas and smoke em out. When I go in the mountains 9 outta 10 times I'm by my self so just looking for some piece of mind.

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#23 ·
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#24 ·
No I'm apparently still learning which hole it goes in.

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#25 ·
The debate is what is fun about these forums.

If all we did was tell you what was wrong and how to fix something it would get boring.
 
#26 ·
All I know is that I miss my truck im spending a lot of money in my head dreaming about the day I get it back. I have big dreams of riding off into the sunset when I get her back. ?

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#27 · (Edited)
I didn't need a spreader when I re-geared my 10.25 axle. (from 4.10 to 3.55). Pry bar to pull the diff, and BFH to re-install. You will need a dial indicator and some sort of mount to measure the backlash with old diff, and then shim the new one 'til it is the same. While I was re-gearing, I went from the factory LSD (whatever the marketing people call it) to an ARB air locker. The air locker came with a shim system that has heavy telescoping parts that the thin shims fit between. This makes it easy to avoid damaging shims when you are trying them out. It isn't a lot of fun wresting the diff in and out under the truck...but the cluttered state of my garage didn't leave enough room to work on the axle indoors, and it was safer from theft still bolted to the truck!

A working friction type LSD is a hazard on icy roads, IMO. Yes it will get you moving, but both rear tires will tend to lose traction at the same time when on ice. This can cause loss of control when cornering braking, or accelerating...pretty much anything other than coasting in a straight line. The effect is very pronounced in a pickup with an empty bed. Weight in the back helps, and it gets better as the friction plates in the diff wear out. (making it closer to an open diff) Running in 4x4 helps also, as it helps keep the rear axle turning the same speed as the front, so you are less likely to spin or lock the rear axle.

This was the main reason I went with the ARB: Traction when needed, predictability of an open diff otherwise.

The ABS/speedometer tone ring wouldn't fit the ARB diff. as supplied, so I had to machine a step and cut a keyway on the ring gear mounting flange of the ARB. That is something to look into with any replacement diff.

I also regeared my D50 TTB front axle. (but stayed with open diff) For this I improvised a spreader using the frame of my 12 ton shop press a couple large turnbuckles, and plates I fabricated to attach to sides of the axle housing and engage the dowel pin holes. Shimming the front was a pain, because IIRC, the shims go under the inner races, and it is hard to pull the bearings for another try without destroying the shims. After a couple tries, I honed out the old bearings to a tight slip fit, and used those to find the right fit, then swapped in the new bearings at the end. Same deal with the pinion, but you needn't mess with that if keeping your old gears.

If you want more traction up front, the options for a D50 are limited. The ARB is available, as well as a couple of "hard" lockers. It may be possible to install D44 diff in the D50 housing, using D50 gears, which gives you more options, such as the Truetrac. See here: TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com That link is missing pictures and so is tough to follow. It was based on a solid (not TTB) D50, but I know that the TTB and solid D50 use the same diff and gears.

Edit: Here is another thread from the archives where I guessed at how much labor to change gearing. Changing just the diffs would be a little less time, as no need to shim the pinions and check contact patch: http://www.thedieselstop.com/archiv...64&page=13&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm

Edit: Found a better link for article on how to install D44 diff into D50 case:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Front Diferential Limited Slip
 
#28 ·
I have a LS rear in my 99 CC and I feel it helps a lot. If it won't lock up just apply the emergency brake a bit and than it will lock. My dodge has open diff front and rear and can get stuck pretty easy on ice.
DENNY
 
#29 ·
I plan to go with an on demand locker (like an ARB or electric) when i get around to it on my 97. The way i figure is it will handle fine when disengaged but when i need it i know im putting power down on all 4 corners. Its more expensive but it is full proof in my mind. and yes i believe locking the differential makes a significant difference. As demonstrated with the my following experience in our 2012 6.7.
We missed a turn and had turn around in a shallow ditch with at least 12k of tractor behind us. The ditch was to deep for the trailer and the back end grounded out on the asphalt good both axles were hanging free wheeling in the air, the truck is off in some ones yard (low traction). We put it in 4 high and the truck spins, uh oh stuck. Shift it down into 4 low and lock the differential(electric locking differential is worth every penny) the truck walks off like the Budweiser Clydesdale horses in a parade. We look back and a 6'x3' piece of asphalt had actually been ripped up by the tail end of the trailer being drug off of it. Only damage was a slightly bent receiver hitch and that guys yard needed to be re-sodded.
 
#30 ·
So I know this thread has been down a while but I've found that my local jy has several 4.10ls axles available for under $350. Is this a viable option in assuming they are 100% bolt in as they are 97s and mine is a 96. I've actually found a few dana 60s under a grand that are also 4.10. Currently I have 3.55 open. Are there any draw backs to going to the 4.10ls?

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#31 ·
lower fuel millage and higher RPMs , something like 2-3mpg and 200-400rpms
 
#33 ·
I'm not sure what you mean by "bayou meto", but I was born on the bayou - Lake Chuck. I hate wheeling in mud, though, so I don't plan to ever go back. I might get as far down as Sicily Island or Ruston to visit a friend one of these days.
 
#35 ·
Where? Put your location in your profile so it appears under your username in the Left bar.
 
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