You are going to need to cut and massage the pinch weld on the firewall. Depending on the size and type of downpipe will determine how much. Some engines are mounted more forward then others and that helps some.
ART
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2005 Dodge Durango Limited w/HEMI.
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LT.
I tried using a big bar, a 2X4 and ended up borrowing a porta-power. Couldn't get the right angle on things by prying. Ended up rubbing the floorboards so went with the porta-power and worked great.
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'00 F350 CC 4X4 longbed, wht, Lariet pkg. She's pretty! Open element intake, 4" exhaust, A-pillar pod w/ Isspro gauges, TW 4 pos. chip, leveling kit, 315-70-17 BFG AT's on black alloy rims, and...
SOLD '95 F350 CC 4X4 (ex-slope truck) flatbed. Open element intake, 3-4" dp, 4" straight pipe through bumper, shimmed FPR, IDM mod, TW 4 pos. chip, DIY RSK/shackle flip, 315-70-17 BFG AT's, H2 rims, 4.10's, rebuilt E40D, 3 guage a-piller pod w/ Isspro guages, DIY rear disks, SD front bumper, Warn 8000# winch, Explorer power buckets, Dodge center console/seat...
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I tried using a big bar, a 2X4 and ended up borrowing a porta-power. Couldn't get the right angle on things by prying. Ended up rubbing the floorboards so went with the porta-power and worked great.
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This was the easiest and most professional way i found to get the job done too. Cut the wall seam about 3/4 of an inch deep every inch or so. Just stop before you cut past the spot welds. Put a block of wood on the engine side to spread the load and protect the transmission dipstick. Used a porta power spreader to flatten the seam.
Joat was able to get his in by looseing the cab mounts somehow. I don't like to cut stuff myself, but in this case the seam is just bigger than it needs to be.
__________________ TheRacer XBuilt E4OD THAT CAN Video. 1997 F-350 7.3 Twin Turboed Power Stroke Diesel. Fueled with 473 + cc's of Dieseland nitrous!
Family owned & sponsored by : FloridaNorth
Cut the pinch weld and fold it flat, then use a spud bar or similar tool to bend in the firewall/floorpan as needed. One other possibility is to loosen the 6 cab mounting bolts from below (if they aren't firmly rusted in place like mine were) and shove the cab aft, no closer than 3/4" or 7/8" from the bed. When I replaced my cab mounts last summer I picked up a good 1/2" of clearance at the downpipe by doing so.
Josh
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'96 F350 XLT CC 4x4 PSD auto LWB 4.10 open, white, open intake, Tymar HX, 3"DPP downpipe, 315 Toyo A/T (2nd set - got 55k from first set) on factory Alcoas, big front bumper w/4 really bright lights; F add-a-leaf, new alt x3, fuel pump, water pump, t-stat, fuel heater, vac pump x 3, PS pump x2, SD starter, rebuilt seats, total poly bushing kit, serious noise reduction, new tan interior and vinyl floor, Bilsteins, Bean's Stage 1s, Tony Wildman 4-pos chip (wow), etc ad infinitum, black Lab in backseat, locally rebuilt tranny & new TC @ 211k, complete body 'makeover' and repaint @ 213k, 222k and counting...
i used the pry bar and a 2x4 and got it the seam and the fire wall pushed bakc fairly easy it took maybe 20 mins of course i wanted to get the dp in, in a hurry and i was pumped to get it in, good luck
o yea i used and air chisel to do some fine tuning around the tranny
chris
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blue 96 4x4 xlt fpr shim, tymar intake, tymar downpipe, black cloud diesel stack kit 5inch turn outs and gauges
I AM BEANED stage 2s, garrett BB turbo , and a nice 6.0 IC
I just put the same flo pro pipe in, no sweat. The biggest thing was getting up the courage to really hit the firewall! I only had to massage mine about 3/4" to make it work, and cut the seam and bend it up.
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'97 Crew Cab short box, 4X4, auto, built 12/97, purchased 1/06 with 82,000 on it.
Mods 3-3.5" Down Pipe and
Tymar intake
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