MeanGreen is getting a new paint job! - Diesel Forum

Jerry Miller · 05-27-2008, 10:31 PM

I've been wanting to do this for a while now. Before I bought my truck it had the passenger side of the bed repainted and the tailgate. The clear has been flaking for 2 years now in small spots. I also have a few minor dings here and there and the raingutters need a little attention to the sealer.Soooo, I am having the job done in June. I wanted to do it myself, but I don't have the time. It is sad when it is easier to find the extra cash then extra time! Especially when the extra cash is hard enough to cough up!
I'm also getting a new Line-X liner. I am peeling my Vortex liner out (about half way done). They didn't even scuff the bed!
This paint job is a top end deal....all of the glass, weatherstripping, trim, everything is being removed for a factory looking paint job. I have been assured I will have no tape lines around anything!

I figure with new trucks at 50,000 stock and only getting crap fuel mileage, that I am ahead just keeping the old girl forever!
So, I am wondering, what have others paid for paint jobs and/or what would others be willing to pay? I'm just wondering if I am insane to spend the dough I am about to spend. I'll let you all know how much it is after I get some feedback.......LOL!
Jerry

**mattski** · 05-28-2008, 12:59 AM

Pretty hard to come up with a number without knowing how much "extra" work the truck needs before it is even ready for paint. Painting is all in the prep of course and that's what takes the time. It also depends on what kind of paint scheme you're going with as well, basic two tone or custom graphics? With some expected rust removal and dent filing I would expect a job of that detail to be anywhere from 80-120 hours of labor. I charge $70/hr shop rate and then materials I would guesstimate to be around $1000-$1500 depending on what products the shop is using. I don't think that would be too much to pay for a good quality job like what you're talking about. But then hey, I'm a painter!

I would like to know how you make out as I am getting ready to paint my truck in sig as well and would also love to see some pics when it's done.

Mattski

Jerry Miller · 05-28-2008, 09:27 AM

Mattski,
Yeap, looking at right at 10K to do the job. I have 3 minor door dings and one small crease in my tailgate, other than that, the truck is straight. I also have a little surface rust starting under the rear doors (it hasn't bubbled, it is literally just where the factory Ford paint just flaked off!) and of course the rain gutters (the body sealant has shrunk just a little, leaving a hairline crack in the paint.....no rust...yet)
As for the paint scheme.....I'm going back stock. My truck is the Dark Tourmaline Green (paint code NA or NB) It has a blue metallic in it, so the truck looks almost black in low light, green in most light and in direct bright sunlight almost appears blue. I wanted to go black, as I love black trucks, but I hate swirl marks and nothing shows them more than Black!
Jerry

johndeerebones · 05-28-2008, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Miller

Mattski,
Yeap, looking at right at 10K to do the job. I have 3 minor door dings and one small crease in my tailgate, other than that, the truck is straight. I also have a little surface rust starting under the rear doors (it hasn't bubbled, it is literally just where the factory Ford paint just flaked off!) and of course the rain gutters (the body sealant has shrunk just a little, leaving a hairline crack in the paint.....no rust...yet)
As for the paint scheme.....I'm going back stock. My truck is the Dark Tourmaline Green (paint code NA or NB) It has a blue metallic in it, so the truck looks almost black in low light, green in most light and in direct bright sunlight almost appears blue. I wanted to go black, as I love black trucks, but I hate swirl marks and nothing shows them more than Black!
Jerry

Thats what I was gonna say, but thought others would call me nuts. I would expect anywhere from 8 to 10k for the kinda of paint job I would want. I expect no less that perfect on a paintjob. Anything less than 5 or 6k and I would run from it, FAST. It is mixed on weather or not I would have it done on the ol girl though. If it got crashed up, ya, paint the hole thing while its there, but just to repaint I don't know. Anything vehicular is a HORRIBLE investment. Just have to decide how much you love your truck.

Jerry Miller · 05-28-2008, 09:06 PM

Well, I was all ready to drop the truck off next week, and then I started thinking. This same shop has done pretty good work for me in the past, but has left certain loose ends that I had to go back and fix. Even at 10K, it's gonna be the same people working on it that did my other paint work, and it wasn't 100%. So, since I have the tools and the experience (couple of show Jeeps and a handful of other paint jobs) I am slowly going to take care of the problem areas myself and save the extra cash for fuel!
Jerry

**mattski** · 05-30-2008, 01:06 AM

Ah yes , painting is the most thankless job in the world!!

NO paint job out there is 100%. I know that 10k seems like alot of money to spend on a paint job, but guys spend 3-4 times that on small coupes and hot rods, half the vehicle we're talking about here. I'm not saying you should get those guys to do it if you're not satisfied with their work, I just think it's a fair price for the job you were describing. Anybody that is going to go to the detail they were (removing all the glass and seals etc) seems to me like they know what a quality job requires. Don't get me wrong though, I'd much rather see pics of YOUR truck that YOU painted, especially if you have the know-how, tools, and place to do it. Either or, it still beats paying $50-$60K for a new fuel guzzling one to replace it. What product line are you going to use if you do it yourself? Yep, vehicles are just big money pits, but it sure beats riding a bike or walking.

Mattski

Jerry Miller · 07-09-2008, 05:05 PM

Mattski,
I realize no paint job is 100%, but 80 grit sanding marks should not show through on a fender, and silicone sealant shouldn't be painted over. With that being said.......I am actually dropping the truck off at the same shop probably next week!
I started to do the work myself, and 3 weeks later, I'm basically nowhere. I just don't have the time I used to have. It kills me to let someone else do it, but at least it will be done. I have spoke with the owner of the shop....we are on the same page and he knows about my earlier concerns.
I found a rusted crossmember in the bed which I am replacing this week, and then it gets dropped off. I have decided to take most of the glass and trim off myself, but I did find one little rust hole on the right side of the bed, that I am going to let them fix. It was caused by a previous repair......slide hammer screw holes that were not sealed up on the back side.

As for material, I was going to use PPG products......DP90LF, K38, DBC, and 2021 clear(I think that's the right clear number). The shop is a PPG certified shop, but he has been using Sherwin-Williams products with better results and durability. I don't know how I feel about this, but since I haven't painted squat for over 10-12 years, I figure he probably knows more than I do about this!

Jerry

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattski

Ah yes , painting is the most thankless job in the world!!

NO paint job out there is 100%. I know that 10k seems like alot of money to spend on a paint job, but guys spend 3-4 times that on small coupes and hot rods, half the vehicle we're talking about here. I'm not saying you should get those guys to do it if you're not satisfied with their work, I just think it's a fair price for the job you were describing. Anybody that is going to go to the detail they were (removing all the glass and seals etc) seems to me like they know what a quality job requires. Don't get me wrong though, I'd much rather see pics of YOUR truck that YOU painted, especially if you have the know-how, tools, and place to do it. Either or, it still beats paying $50-$60K for a new fuel guzzling one to replace it. What product line are you going to use if you do it yourself? Yep, vehicles are just big money pits, but it sure beats riding a bike or walking.

Mattski

RonKZ650 · 07-09-2008, 07:27 PM

I hope it works out for you. Even "quality" repaints never look right to me. All the emblems and trim are originally attached with quality double sided adhesive. Do they do this or goop glue on to reattach? The time I made the mistake, they gooped glue, glue all turned yellow and nasty. You'd about have to buy all new trim and emblems to make it right.

Jerry Miller · 07-10-2008, 09:56 AM

Ron,
I'm putting on new F-350 logos as well as the PowerStroke logos. I am doing a little bit of the prep work......I'm removing all the exterior trim, weatherstripping, mirrors, locks, windows (except windshield...I see no reason to mess with it since the paint under the trim is perfect), door panels, so all I really need to worry about is putting it back together without messing up the new paint!!!
Jerry

BigBopper · 07-11-2008, 11:43 AM

I'm just in the process of reassembly after a complete color change to black. It started with the repair of a minor dent in the box, to a complete dissassembly and paint. A daunting job on a CC LB but should be awesome when it's done!! I did all the disassembly right down to a bare cab sitting on the frame. While the interior was out, I sprayed QuietTruck soundproofing on all the interior surfaces of the doors and cab (saved some paint as it's black)
I could only imagine the cost if I had to pay for it. My buddy is an ace painter and done all my paint work for years so I was completely comfortable with him doing the work. He's already got countless hours into repairing factory defects, blocking, wet sanding and polishing.
Best part of the deal is that he has a 96 F350 CC that he wants to do a complete color change and mechanical upgrades (injectors, lift etc) , so in trade for his paintwork, I will do all the disasembly and mechanical on his truck when mine is finished.
I'll try to upload some progress pics to my Webshots account.

Here's a link to pics:

97 F350 paint/upgrades pictures from rides photos on webshots

RonKZ650 · 07-11-2008, 11:45 PM

Looking good. My question always on repaints is will they last? The reason I have my 97 Diesel is my 89 Ford Diesel had freight damage to the front fender and roof, strictly paint, minor, but the damage was enough that these parts were repainted prior to me buying it new. By 1997 I had all I could take as the roof and fender that was repainted was so damn ugly I couldn't stand it for another day when the rest of the truck was darn near new looking so trade in time as I figured I've seen repaint, why would I do another?

bosefes · 07-12-2008, 01:51 AM

If done correctly they will outlast the original paint by far, a quality paint job is all in the prep work and a knowledgeable person doing the job.

Dave

Jerry Miller · 07-14-2008, 02:57 PM

Big Bopper,
I have toyed with a color change.......to black. My truck is that Dark Green, called Dark Toumaline. I really like it, but I like black too. Guess, I better decide quick! I see you painted the frame. I wanted to do mine, but I'm out of tiime (goes in tomorrow) but eventually I will remove the bed again and protect the cab and then blast the frame and paint. For now it is getting a good cleaning and wire brush and then some Eastwood Heavy Duty Black AntiRust. This stuff is a waxy coating that is similar to the wax that was on the frame from the factory. It actually soaks into surface rust and slows it way down......I'd rather have paint though.
As for the body, I am leaning toward keeping the green, but I am having my door handles, winshield trim, and anything else that is chromed, powdercoated black. I'm even blacking out my aluminum wheels, and I think my stacks are going to get the black treatment as well.
So lets take a poll. Green or Black????
Jerry

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBopper

I'm just in the process of reassembly after a complete color change to black. It started with the repair of a minor dent in the box, to a complete dissassembly and paint. A daunting job on a CC LB but should be awesome when it's done!! I did all the disassembly right down to a bare cab sitting on the frame. While the interior was out, I sprayed QuietTruck soundproofing on all the interior surfaces of the doors and cab (saved some paint as it's black)
I could only imagine the cost if I had to pay for it. My buddy is an ace painter and done all my paint work for years so I was completely comfortable with him doing the work. He's already got countless hours into repairing factory defects, blocking, wet sanding and polishing.
Best part of the deal is that he has a 96 F350 CC that he wants to do a complete color change and mechanical upgrades (injectors, lift etc) , so in trade for his paintwork, I will do all the disasembly and mechanical on his truck when mine is finished.
I'll try to upload some progress pics to my Webshots account.

Here's a link to pics:

97 F350 paint/upgrades pictures from rides photos on webshots

**mattski** · 07-15-2008, 12:09 AM

My vote would be for the green, if the powdercoating you are doing is gloss black. Will make for nice accent pieces that way. If your powdercoating is flat black then go with black for your paint. You'll still get a subtle accent that way. Just my 2 cents worth. Can't wait to see it done.

Mattski

Jerry Miller · 07-15-2008, 09:35 PM

If I stay green, then the plan was for gloss black trim. The stacks would probably be a matte black (ceramic coated) although I'm told that high temp powder coat (about 500 degrees) is able to live on stacks....then they would be gloss black as well.
Decisions, decisions!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattski

My vote would be for the green, if the powdercoating you are doing is gloss black. Will make for nice accent pieces that way. If your powdercoating is flat black then go with black for your paint. You'll still get a subtle accent that way. Just my 2 cents worth. Can't wait to see it done.

Mattski