Hello all,
Finally getting around to my IDM mod. Got the resistors from Madvan about 5 weeks ago. Anyhow I have it opened up and the question is, the layer of silicone or whatever--does it need scraped off before hitting it with the soldering iron or just go after it. It is quite small isnt it. Alot smaller in size than the one that Madvan sent out to me. By the way. The lid came off pretty easy. Scraped off the excess w/ a boxknife and used 2 small screwdrivers to gradually move around the cover. About 7 minutes was all.
Thanks for your help in advance.
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97 F250 CC SB 4WD. Tymar intake, IDM mod, shimmed FPR, CCV mod, 203 t-stat, coolant filter mod., MBRP 3-4" sraight through, HPXover, and for the tranny some Schaffers, Tru-cool cooler, sonnex and springs.
i just did mine the other day,and used a screwdiver to scrape off the old res. and it left the two little pads for a drop of solder,i would disturb as little as possible-george
I go right after it with the gun. If your using the correct super fine tip on the gun, it will melt thru the covering pretty easily.
I usually hit once side, then the other and back and forth until it comes free. They like to glue the resistors down to the circuit board, so sometimes they dont come off easy.
Just be careful with those pads, as that is what the new resistor will be soldered too, and if you screw those up, your in a world of hurt.
Also be careful about using too much solder. Its possible to form an accidental solder bridge to some of the other components close by.
Oh, the usual. Faster injector response, miniscule timing advance, overall better performance from the injector solenoid.
Even Ford thinks so, hence the reason they went from a 100 volt IDM on the early trucks, to a 120 volt unit on the later trucks.
We are just bumping it up to around 130-140 volts depending on what model of IDM you mod. The earlier ones you can jack a little higher than the 120's.
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