My new to me engine - Diesel Forum

tates97 · 03-23-2006, 09:19 AM

Since i'm lucky enough to be getting a new rebuilt motor(haha)I have been re-reading Baz's info on breaking in and fluids. WHile its out it seems now would be a good time to install a bigger exhaust. What else should I look at as far as 1.Checking out to see if its in good working order. 2. possible upgrades 3.The absolute best way to start this motor up (oils or anything else)? I don't have endless cash so question 1 and 3 are most important question 2 is just some thing to ponder. It is a short block from International. Do my mods screw w/my warranty? if so yank them for a year? Thanks Tate

DIESELMIESTER · 03-24-2006, 02:41 AM

Run <font color="red">NON SYNTHETIC </font>oil for at least 500mi, Dont redline or beat the hell out of it @ first or anything, I wouldnt pull anythin heavy right away. If your looking at breakin procedures ya should be fine, this is all obvious stuff off the top a my head. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]

tates97 · 03-24-2006, 08:46 AM

Thanks. Do you recommend synthetic after that? Tate

lukecline · 03-24-2006, 10:22 AM

im gonna run dino in mine for 1000 miles and no towing for 1000 then back to amsoil and beating the heck out of it.

radarman · 03-24-2006, 10:39 AM

Just remember that the rings will not seat without cylinder pressure. You have to put a load on the engine soon after starting it to seat the rings.

Break in proceedures are usually something like this: start it up.. run for about 20 minutes at 1500 or so RPM checking for leaks. Shut down, change oil. Go for a ride and go smoothly through the gears with light throttle a couple of times. Then stop, and run it through the gears at about half throttle, running up to about 2500 or so. Do this several times stopping in between. Last I would take it on the freeway, get up to speed, and drop it into a gear where you can build about 10-15 lbs boost and run the engie up to about 26-2900, back off, slow down, do the same thing several times. Go home and change oil and filter again.

Presto, broken in engine. Be carefull about two things. Do not redline the engine for a 100 miles or so, and do not BABY IT either!

You have to work the engine to break it in!

Since you will be changing the oil several times in the first week, run the cheapest CC oil you can find. After the flury of oil changes are done (you should do it 3 times) with the cheap stuff, run some good CC rated oil (delo 400 or similar) in it for the next 1 or 2 oil changes. NOW you can run some synthetic. The synthetic oil does not allow the rings to seat nearly as well due to its higher lubricosity (sp?).

tates97 · 03-24-2006, 10:51 AM

I am having this engine installed by a mech. He's pretty cool but I kinda want to supply the fluids and do the break in. With that in mind I sorta want to know how to go about it with hin w/o looking like a jerk(taking over his job)SO any of he Dino oils Baz's site has listed will be fine?
I just need to see what his plans are for it once he's got it all back together as far as startup.Anything else ?Thanks Tate

radarman · 03-24-2006, 11:18 AM

On any of the engines I have rebuilt.. (all gassers I have to admit) I have always put in the cheapest oil I can find at the auto parts store for the first few changes. I even put in single weight and skip the multi-vis stuff. Heck, the oil is not even in the engine for more than an hour or so each time anyway..

richmondfarms · 03-24-2006, 11:19 AM

Sorry to hear about the busted piston. I would definately change the downpipe while the engine is out, much easier.

F250Jockey · 03-24-2006, 11:37 AM

Tate,

I'm running Chevron Delo 15w-40 (17 quarts on initial fill). You can get it at Walmart for about $8 - $9 a gallon. You also have to fill up the HPOP Res, and the galleys in the heads will be empty the first fill up, so it will take a couple quarts more than normal.

If your antifreeze is fairly new, you can use a catch can and salvage some of it, before you remove the old engine.

It's a PITA, but if I were you, I'd lap the valves in the heads with a good lapping compound (It's a cheap valve job, and you should, since you're putting a new shortblock in).

Everybody you talk to, will tell you something different on break-in procedures. I'm gonna put 500 miles on mine, then change the oil & filter. Change the filters again at 1500 miles, then change everything again at 3000.

Just don't redline it for about 1000 miles, but don't necessarily baby it. You do need to work the engine some to get those rings to seat good. I pull a light trailer with mine about once a week. That will put a good load on it, and get your cylinders good and hot, which is what you want. Just don't pull anything heavy for a while, or get your EGT's real high.

As far as mods, I'm sure they would void your warranty, but what IH doesn't know, won't hurt them, and don't Mod it before 1500 miles! If something does happen to break, take them off before you take it back! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

I put new hoses and a new belt on mine, plus a new fuel pump, ICP sensor, and CPS sensor. Got the fuel pump, ICP, and CPS all on Ebay for about $60 each.

How much is the guy charging you for the install?

Send me a PM if you have any questions. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

Andy C.

tates97 · 03-24-2006, 02:16 PM

The labor is 1320. He has a decent shop and his guys all look like they can at least can read. Madison is a relatively small town so you don't screw folks too many times w/o it getting around. I have written all this down and will try to buddy up w/the tech. The mech.mentioned "doing the heads" Can you explain this I guess he meant something similar to "turning"(my words not his) to clean them up?
The small things I done should be ok Just don't do anything bigger before 1500 miles.Is that what you mean? Thanks for all your help Tate

F250Jockey · 03-25-2006, 02:53 PM

When the Tech was talking about doing the heads, he probably was talking about doing a valve job. If they do that, I would imagine it would cost between $500 to $1500, depending on the cost of parts and machining.

I just lapped the valves in my heads, and installed new valve stem seals. You need to look at the valve seats good to know for sure if you need to do any head work. To lap the valves, you need a valve spring compresser tool.

The difference with a valve job and lapping the valves, is when you do a valve job, you take them to a machine shop where they remove all the valves from the heads, grind the seats in a valve grinding machine, and install new guides and valves.

Lapping the valves, you just pull off the springs, and put a suction cup tool on the each valve, and lapping compound on the seat, and just spin them by hand to get them to seal better. It basically knocks the carbon off the seats, and any knicks, etc, that may be on there. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]