I should be getting my truck back in a week or 2. I plan to get another spray in bedliner put in, after I let the paint cure for a few months. However, I have seen a handful of trucks where the razor tape they use actually pulls the paint off the truck (at least the clearcoat) when they unmask! I have seen this on my truck when it had the Vortex (CRAP) spray in liner, and my buddy has a Dodge with a Line-x liner that did the same thing. His truck was the factory paint, and mine was a repair.
So, how many of you have had paint damage from getting a liner put in? And how many of you have had no problems, especially with a liner over a repainted bedrail.
Thanks,
Jerry
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1997 F-350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW PSD a.k.a MEAN GREEN. DP-Tuner Chip, DIY Stage 1 injectors, D66 Turbo with 1.0 housing, K&N FIPKwith Amsoil element, 4" exhaust to 5" stacks, Banks intercooler, CCV modded to RDT, 4" Superlift with 35" BFG AT's.
Paint (urethane) usually takes about 30 days to cure completely. as far as geting razor blades close to paint, have them unmask it when its wet. save a bunch of crap...
I just had mine Line-Xed. The paint was was 3-4 weeks old but the interior of the box was original paint (the Line-X guy said it would provide the best adhesion). All the areas that had to be masked was fresh paint, and I was really nervous about the paint pulling with the tape too. It completely depends on how well the prep was done prior to painting and how long the paint has had to cure. I would leave it for at least a month.
I had no issues and am very happy with the result.
Good luck!!
__________________ BigBopper 97 F-350 CC XLT 4X4 PSD, E4OD and a few other goodies...
I use to spray boxliners. We would mask with a wire tape. The fine wire is imbeded into the tape, and that it what's used to 'cut' the clean line at the edges. There are no razors invoved in de-masking.
As for the tape pulling the fresh paint off, yes it can and has happened. The tape is VERY sticky and has to be. The coating comes out of the gun (or is processed) at about 2000#'s and a minimum of 160*F. The product is dry to the touch in about 5 seconds, so de-masking when it is still wet isn't an option. If the masking is not done absolutely perfect, or the wire tape comes off, your looking at a new paint job. NOTHING will take it off except sandpaper or a grinder.
So to make a long story short, wait until your paint is fully cured and hope the paint guys did a good prep job prior to your paint job.
Like I said I used to do this.
+/- $500.00 sell for the job
+/- $300.00 cost for materials if the proper amout of product is used
4-5 hours labour - prep, spray, de-mask
$2-3000 liability for any overspray potential! Not a real money maker in my eyes!!!!!!
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Early 99 F-250 Superduty X/C SB, 6 speed, South Bend Con OFE clutch, 4" turbo back exhaust, Ebpv Brake Mod, DIY Tymar, Hutch Mod, 2" leveling kit, 315/75/16's, DP tuner (stock, 60tow, 80econo, 120race, 140extreme), Warn premium hubs, Autometer pyro, boost and fuel pressure gauges.
76' (updated) E series 24' Motorhome - 89' 7.3IDI w/ATS turbo, ZF 5 speed, LUK clutch, Borg Warner 1356 transfercase, dana 60 front, 3.73 gears, 245/75/16, 4x4.thumbsup:
Thanks guys. For those of you that used to spray these in, I talked to Line-X (corporate) and they said they sometimes put down blue painters tape, and then the wire tape over this. Anyone here think this would be a good idea or bad?
Jerry
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1997 F-350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW PSD a.k.a MEAN GREEN. DP-Tuner Chip, DIY Stage 1 injectors, D66 Turbo with 1.0 housing, K&N FIPKwith Amsoil element, 4" exhaust to 5" stacks, Banks intercooler, CCV modded to RDT, 4" Superlift with 35" BFG AT's.
I don't think it's so much a question of what kind of tape goes on the paint as how long the paint has had to cure and how well the prep was. Depending on what you put in the back of your truck there are some pretty good products out there that you could do yourself for a fraction of the cost of the LINE-X.
If the bed has already been prepped then the hard part is already done. All you need is a Schutz gun ($30 at most paint stores) and a nice sunny weekend. Make sure you go with a catalyzed product though, not a moisture cure. All depends what you are using the back of your truck for.
I think the painters tape would be a good idea. The only downside i could see, would be that the blue tape doesn't stick very well (from my experience) and that spraying somthing at the pressures and volumes that this stuff comes out at, I wouldn't be comfortable myself doing the job.
This is just my opinion, and these liners are sprayed everyday, all over the continent with not too many problems...or they wouldn't be in business.
I own my own business spraying other products as well (polyurethane foam), and I don't like to screw up.
Maybe I'm just a little tooooooo cautious.
If you like the product, tell your local line-x dealer your concerns, and I'm sure they will do their best to make you happy.
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Early 99 F-250 Superduty X/C SB, 6 speed, South Bend Con OFE clutch, 4" turbo back exhaust, Ebpv Brake Mod, DIY Tymar, Hutch Mod, 2" leveling kit, 315/75/16's, DP tuner (stock, 60tow, 80econo, 120race, 140extreme), Warn premium hubs, Autometer pyro, boost and fuel pressure gauges.
76' (updated) E series 24' Motorhome - 89' 7.3IDI w/ATS turbo, ZF 5 speed, LUK clutch, Borg Warner 1356 transfercase, dana 60 front, 3.73 gears, 245/75/16, 4x4.thumbsup:
Thanks guys. For those of you that used to spray these in, I talked to Line-X (corporate) and they said they sometimes put down blue painters tape, and then the wire tape over this. Anyone here think this would be a good idea or bad?
Jerry
That's what they did to address my concerns about the wire tape over my fresh paint. It turned out great, no peeling and a nice clean edge.
__________________ BigBopper 97 F-350 CC XLT 4X4 PSD, E4OD and a few other goodies...
Hi Guy's, I would like to add my .02$ to the post. I have owned and opperated an ArmorThane dealership for the last 4 yrs and I have seen alot! As far as the new paint, I have had some pull second layers of paint or repaints loose. I would definitely wait a month or more for the paint to cure all the way through! The tape is always used for your liner edge, then wire tape to do the triming, but the (blue) painters tape is for household projects, and as stated earlier the liner product is coming out hot due to the chemical reaction to each other. I had to use the blue tape to finish out a job on a sunday and found out that the heat will make the tape adhere almost beyond removal. We have always used 3M 233+ body masking tape and have had no problems in over 5000 liners! There are alot of DIY systems out there for the guy who does not want to spend $500, but you get what you payfor. In my honest opinion, and what I am doing today, I would use the truck the way you want to, use a rubber liner if you are abusive, and have it sprayed a few weeks before trade in or a sale, but please use a good urethane liner when you do have it done. Chad
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97' F250HD, X-cab, Long box, 4:10's, Auto, No cat, No muff, Shimmed, Open element, otherwise stock.
From what I've seen in repaints even if you wait a year the paint is fragile to say the least. Of course I'm only 47 years old, and have a limited exposure to these things, but I've seen many a crappy repaint, and rarely a repaint that looks right initially let alone a few years (months, weeks), down the road. So if it was me really I wouldn't worry about tape, because if tape removes the paint, it will all remove itself in short order anyway.
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Ron Hansen, 1997 F350CC, 4x4, PSD 110,000 miles all stock with stupid auto transmission unfortunately. 1993 Ford E350 Club Wagon 7.5L 11,000 miles, 1978 Kawasaki KZ650 motorcycle with 167,000 miles!
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