I see that ITP has the new stainless steel cross over hose up and on the site. I have been waiting for this to come out. It does not require the rerouting of the drivers side HP hose. I was never all that happy with having to do that as it puts a semi-short bend in the hose. From what I have caught in the 99up threads they have been working out very well. You can take a look here: http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?c...on=show_detail
Tom
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96 F250SC 4X4 AUTO
F-6 live tuned, BTS Transmission, TN BB, Stage One Injectors, Custom electric fuel,
I've been waiting for that too..... Read carefully on weather or not you have to reroute the L hpop to head hose. I looked at the instructions that they hane posted there and realized they are 99 up instructions I think? Reroute or not still a great idea. But I have one question..... How much of the results of adding the HX hose (now line) is cuased by the natural flex or give of the walls of the hose acting as a damper? Yes I know the usual hoses are a high pressure braided stainless, but I'm sure there is some degree of flex in th sidewalls. Just a ????? for thought. I'n going for the KCM hardline.
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Mine: 91 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5spd 7.3IDI 4.10LS 145,000 miles. Banks Sidewinder 92 D60 F axle w 97 brakes and Powerlock. Lift: about 4" over stock 250. 33x12.50x16.5 Pro Comp MTs Magnaflow 12" muffler. Sees dirt everyday. Used to haul hay, wood, feed cows, check fence.
Hers: 96F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS 190,000 miles. Puchased 7/03, Looked for a 5spd CCSB for a year!Dana 60 front axle, at stock F350 height (for now) Energy Poly bushings, Bilsteins, 305/70/16 Pro Comps on 16x10 Weld Outbacks, AFE Pro7,TYMAR 3x3.5x4 downpipe,TYMAR 5" straightpipe, gutted EBV, IH Non EBV pedistal,New Alliant AC Injectors,(stage 1)Cal reg kit, SBC Con O clutch, permenent clutch bushing fix, AC mod with a different twist, AMP Powersteps with custom brackets and wiring(one of 2 OBS trucks with them according to AMP) Line of Fire. Sees dirt everyday.
My Company pickup: 86 F250 6.9 C6 320,000 miles Co trucks 5 89 to 94 IDI's, plus about 50 more diesels.
Diesel Mechanic 28 yrs
I have seen a picture and it looks like it would not interfere with any of that stuff. It comes straight across the motor like a regular HX then has a bend to take it towards the front of the motor towards the port one more forward. The only thing I could see possiblly getting in the way would be some large turbo or something.
i have kind of a choppie idle that i got after the injectors not the pumps and was told by the maker of the stealth pump to try a hx line.he sayed he put one on his truck and it help with that.
The natural flex or give in a hydraulic hose might be very helpful in keeping an even pressure to all the injectors. The flexible hose can swell or contract more easily than a metal line. Both the flexible hose and the metal line will swell and act like an oil accumulator. The main difference between metal line and flexible line is the amount of accumulated oil and the rate that the accumulated oil is delivered to the system.
The metal line would provide very little accumulator effect.
The metal line would deliver it's accumulated oil at a faster rate.
The flexible line would accumulate more oil.
The flexible line would take longer to deliver it's oil to the system.
In my opinion, the flexible line will perform better than a metal line. The metal line will not provide enough accumulated oil. The metal line is too stiff to accumulate enough oil to help stabilize the pressure at the injectors.
Andrew
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Original designer of the 10k mod
Original designer of the EOT mod
Original designer of the HX mod
LarryS and I were co-designers of the MAP simulator and the black box on the ICP
Andrew, I am glad you looked in on this thread. For me I have to say I like the idea of not having to put the extra bend in the drivers side HP hose. I have not had a lick of trouble with it or the HX hose I got from Tymar. I just really do not like that bend in there. I take it you feel that the acumulator effect of the flex line is as beneficial as tying together the HP galleries on the two heads is?
Tom
Tom
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96 F250SC 4X4 AUTO
F-6 live tuned, BTS Transmission, TN BB, Stage One Injectors, Custom electric fuel,
I have acces to the fittings needed to make my own SS line but have held off doing it because I'm a little concerned about vibration and a rigid line. It has been my experience that rigid tubing will break if there is any high frequency vibration. If rigid tubing is the only answer then it must have expansion loops and use special flare fittings with the sleeve that extends through the fitting nut. Ferrule/compression type fittings always break where the ferrule is biting the tubing.
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Was just another Whiny Chevy driver [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Since this is my second Ford in two years I guess I may be convert.
99 PSD CC Long Box 4WD 6spd
Southbend Con-O clutch. DVB Boost regulator, Gutted EBPV, Bilsteins all around, DIY Tymar, ATS housing, muff delete
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Tom S, yes I feel that the accumulator effect is more beneficial but only under certain conditions.
An accumulator can store oil.
An accumulator can supply oil.
The accumulator effect is most beneficial when the instantaneous volume of oil(demand) is greater than the average output volume of oil(supply).
An injector fires for a short period of time. The injector uses it's oil in a small amount of time but the rate that an injector uses oil can be much higher than the average rate of oil delivery. The demand for oil is greater than the supply of oil.
An accumulator can store oil during the period of time when no injectors are firing. The length of time between firings is longer that the length of time the injectors actually fire. This stored oil in a flexible hose can be very helpful in keeping constant pressure to the injectors.
The proof is in the pudding, I'll have to wait and see if the metal lines are as effective as the flexible lines.
Andrew
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Original designer of the 10k mod
Original designer of the EOT mod
Original designer of the HX mod
LarryS and I were co-designers of the MAP simulator and the black box on the ICP
I still don't get why ya need a HX with a Stealth [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img], with all the hoses that are on the pumps they are only feeding the stock head locations? You would think that the Stealth kit would feed the heads in multiple locations [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]...guess I need to look at the Stealth pictures again.
Cary
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95 f250 4x4 xlt Excab Lb. white, BTS Trans, 4.10ls, Dana 60, ORU RS kit DR 4"front 5" reas springs!, Bilsteins, Centerline 18x9", 37" Toyo MT's,H2e, Tapercore IC,3" Billet intakes, Tymar 4" exhaust,intake and HX mod,Beans 2's, Stealth and Fuel system and DI studs, JS's IDM mod, TW 4 pos chip,TSM Rear Disks, 198k miles.
2004 EB 4x4 6.0 X born 05/18/04
white, LS,premier group, tow package, dvd. centerline 18x9" w/ 35" Toyo MT's, Edge 4.5" Lift, V's & custom B codes 37k miles 3rd turbo 6 5150 Specialy valved Bilsteins!
1976 EB Exploration daily driver
1971 EB Hard Core Crawler
2006 Yamaha FJR1300
2005 Suzuki King Quad
I think I may belly up and give this one a try, I had to remove my HX hose from the old engine to the new one and it is leaking at the hose fittings and no amount of tightening has helped.
It seems to me that the stainless hose will still help balance and stabilize the pressure and flow. But maybe not quite as well as the flexible hose of the standard HX mod. But how much diffenece can there be between the 2?
Tim
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2001 F-250 Crew Cab, short bed, 4x4, 4R100 with VB tuned by Travis's Automatic Trans, Lariat, Snugtop shell, Line-X bedliner, 265/75/R16 GY Silent Armor. DIY open element air filter. DIY 4 inch exhaust, from stock DP back to 45 degree turn down. Quadzilla Recon XZT moniter- EGT, Trans temp, Boost. DP tuner Stock, 40T, 40T high altitude, 80E, Curt MFG Q5 20K slider hitch, P3 brake controller, ATS housing. Blue Bullet
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