Just finished changing my oil and filter. Went to synthetic rotella t 5-40. not cheap at 17 bucks a gallon, but far less than the well known synthetics.
I used an oil evacuator and sucked out the hpop resevoir, and both injection oil rails. After I've run it to bleed the rails of air at first notice it seems to idle smoother and run a little better, BUT the dino oil had 5k on it too, it was rotella 10-30. Im gonna run a blackstone oa at 5k, and change the filter, maybe oil too if the oa says so. Im sure they will be horrible the first couple oa, as it cleans out the system. The internals of my engine were clean as a pin last time I was in it, but is a diesel with 120k, so Im sure the syn oil will clean alot of junk out of it, we will see what comes up...
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
I tried it a couple of months ago and could not tell a difference and could not justify the cost. I put about 5,500 on it and changed back to Shell 15-40 last week. Maybe if it got below 0* I would see more improvements, so I will stick with Shell 15-40 dino not to mention I have 15 gallons of it that was given to me by a friend who is a captain on a boat, the Detroit mechanic told him to use the Detroit brand of oil .
Frank
__________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/dieseldutton
1997 F-250 H.D 4X4 CREW CAB SHORT BED, MBRP 4" TURBO BACK, 16K REESE, 3:55, Auto Meter Sport Comp gauges, tri pillar, 11\16\05 BDP STAGE 1 INJECTORS, TS 6 POSITION CHIP, TYMAR INTAKE 3/27/06 B.T.S. , SIRIUS RADIO, BDP IDM, 4" 350 BLOCKS,160,000 SP Exhaust Brake, 7/4/07 6.0 Intercooler, 7/29/07 Blackbirds Customs rear disc 9/11/07 King Pin Dana 60, SKY 3" RSK, V code 5200 lbs SD springs, 10/17/07 Pro Comp Xtreme's 315x75x16 on Pro Comp 1059's 8"x16" 1/27/08 DIY Fuel System, Running on DSE since March 2008
2004 Pitbull Motorsports rigid chopper
121 TP 130rwh 250 avon
04 CRF250 mine
02 CR80 sons
03 XR100 daughters
425 Polaris magnum
500 Polaris sportsman and 300 lakota everyones
1998 27.5 Wilderness 5th wheel
I tried it a couple of months ago and could not tell a difference and could not justify the cost. I put about 5,500 on it and changed back to Shell 15-40 last week. Maybe if it got below 0* I would see more improvements, so I will stick with Shell 15-40 dino not to mention I have 15 gallons of it that was given to me by a friend who is a captain on a boat, the Detroit mechanic told him to use the Detroit brand of oil .
Frank
Did you do an analysis? I am doing it for potentially better engine protection. This winter I changed to 10-30 and it was MILES better for cold starts, if that was my only reason to change I would just stick to 10-30. We'll see what blackstone says in a few thousand miles.
Its pricey sure enough, but if I can extend the changes, and just change the filter every now and again, it won't cost me any more out of pocket.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
No, I didnt send it to Blackstone, but after a 2,774 mile trip I didnt like the way the engine was running at idle and it seemed to be a little louder at cruise and the oil was very black at 5,500. I never had a problem starting in the winter with 15\40 dino, but like I said it didnt get that cold this winter. Thanks
Frank
__________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/dieseldutton
1997 F-250 H.D 4X4 CREW CAB SHORT BED, MBRP 4" TURBO BACK, 16K REESE, 3:55, Auto Meter Sport Comp gauges, tri pillar, 11\16\05 BDP STAGE 1 INJECTORS, TS 6 POSITION CHIP, TYMAR INTAKE 3/27/06 B.T.S. , SIRIUS RADIO, BDP IDM, 4" 350 BLOCKS,160,000 SP Exhaust Brake, 7/4/07 6.0 Intercooler, 7/29/07 Blackbirds Customs rear disc 9/11/07 King Pin Dana 60, SKY 3" RSK, V code 5200 lbs SD springs, 10/17/07 Pro Comp Xtreme's 315x75x16 on Pro Comp 1059's 8"x16" 1/27/08 DIY Fuel System, Running on DSE since March 2008
2004 Pitbull Motorsports rigid chopper
121 TP 130rwh 250 avon
04 CRF250 mine
02 CR80 sons
03 XR100 daughters
425 Polaris magnum
500 Polaris sportsman and 300 lakota everyones
1998 27.5 Wilderness 5th wheel
I run Rotella 5W40 Syn for the winter months and regular 15W40 the rest of the year in my truck and my JD 5420. I believe that it helps significantly with cold weather operation (anything at or below 15 degrees, and is essential for starting below ZERO without plugging in.
I ran several oil analyses on the truck oil, but could not conclude anything from the tests because too many parameters had changed and I was having some fuel & air delivery issues that could negatively impact the results. I agree with the other poster that the engine sounds louder with the Syn especially in warmer weather. What that means, I do not know.
My advice is try it yourself and see how it works for you and your vehicle.
Latest Repairs/maint.: New starter, new vacuum pump (again), belt, fuel filter, GPR all at 227k miles.
Major Repairs: 197k miles new lift pump; 180k miles, New springs (front & rear); 180k miles, front end rebuild; 109k miles, transmission rebuild actual problem was loose torque converter bushing.
2004 John Deere 5420 MFWD Utility Tractor with 541 MSL Loader.
I run Rotella 5W40 Syn for the winter months and regular 15W40 the rest of the year in my truck and my JD 5420. I believe that it helps significantly with cold weather operation (anything at or below 15 degrees, and is essential for starting below ZERO without plugging in.
I ran several oil analyses on the truck oil, but could not conclude anything from the tests because too many parameters had changed and I was having some fuel & air delivery issues that could negatively impact the results. I agree with the other poster that the engine sounds louder with the Syn especially in warmer weather. What that means, I do not know.
My advice is try it yourself and see how it works for you and your vehicle.
Really, my truck seems quiter, but very few miles on the oil as of yet.
On a side note I sure hope for your sake your tractor is a reverser, but I bet it is being a mfwd tractor. I have put about 15 million park pawls in 5000 series tractors, all the way from the 00's to 25's. Most are reversers, but some are collarshift and top shaft syncronized trannies. worst part is when the go, the take out the mfwd drive gear teeth, and potentially gear teeth in the mfwd drop box.
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1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
my experience is that i couldn't go more than 4k on rotella 15w40 before i felt some significant drop in power, which also effected fuel milege. with the synthetic rotella 5w40, a can go at least 9 or 10k before i notice a similar drop in performance. with that said, it is a little more cost effective for me to go 10k on 1 synthetic oil change with 1 filter vs. about 3 oil changes on dyno 15w40 with 3 fiilters. in short, i save a little money by using synthetic year round.
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