Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and AftermarketUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1994-1997 Ford F-Series with Power Stroke engine.
Has anyone tried installing the new pillar cover without the original pillar in place? Seems like it will be tight to get all of the wires and tubes between the new and old pillars. I know that's how it's been done hundreds of times. I'm just curious about the consequences of cutting most of the old pillar out and only overlaping the new one to the old at the top. Seems like you'd have a lot more room to install the wires and tubes. Does the new pillar not fit well without the old one behind it. These questions may be answered when I look into it closer. Tonight I just placed the new pillar over the stock one for a trial fit. It seems really tight to get light, power, ground and sensor wires along with therm wire and boost tube all between the two!!! My Autometer instructions say to do just that but...you know when all else fails read the instruction...right!!!!!!!!!
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95 F350, 7.3 PSD, CC, ZF5 speed, 4x4, Dually, Autometer EGT, Boost and Engine Temp Gauges, DP and 4 inch exhaust, Tymar Intake, CPR Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP
85 Ranger, 302, ZF5 speed, Klune-V, Dana 20, Explorer front and rear diffs, 35 inch TSLs, ARBs, Superwinch
I have both the original trim piece and the 3-gauge pod in place in my truck. I removed the trim piece and cut a small hole near the bottom to pass the wiring through. Once the gauges were all mounted and wired in the pod, I attached the trim piece and gauge-pod together using the supplied plastic fasteners and some #6 brass machine screws and nuts. They were then reinstalled as a unit.
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1997 F350 CC DRW E4OD POS. electric fuel, DIY6637, Beans Stage I. 200k and counting. webshots
RD97, thanks. That's exactly what the instructions say to do.
When I place the pillar cover to the original pillar it seems to be against it. I guess when I run the wires they push things, the cover, away from the original pillar. If that's the case should I wait to drill the mounting holes until all wires are in place and the cover is moved out as far as it needs to go?
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95 F350, 7.3 PSD, CC, ZF5 speed, 4x4, Dually, Autometer EGT, Boost and Engine Temp Gauges, DP and 4 inch exhaust, Tymar Intake, CPR Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP
85 Ranger, 302, ZF5 speed, Klune-V, Dana 20, Explorer front and rear diffs, 35 inch TSLs, ARBs, Superwinch
The cover should fit snugly up against the original. You may have to cut some holes where the gauge hits the original pillar to allow the pod to fit flush (that is what I had to do). The best thing to use to cut the holes is a paddle bit. Makes the holes nice and round. Then when you test fit it, it should fit snugly and you can drill your holes for the lil push plugs.
If you paint your pod, remember to paint those lil plugs too so they match.
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2005 F250 LARIAT CC 4X4 6.0L PARROT CK3200 bluetooth car kit, Shaker 500 system, nice set of train horns, twin viair compressors and 5gal tank, 5" MBRP turbo back, AFE stage II intake, SCT tuner.
1996 F350 AT, IDM and switched ICP mod
1995 F250 SC AT, IDM and switched ICP mod, 6" susp 2" body lifts.
1994.5 F250 SC 5spd 4x4 IDM and ICP mod
You've seen my setup firsthand. It wasn't as hard as you might think to get the wires and tubes in there. Just takes a little "convincing" to get them to stay put while fastening everything down. Just let me know if I can help out when you get ready to do this.
I still need to swap my Pyro with my Boost to see if it's easier to see at night with my aging eyes! BTW nice avatar.
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'97 F350 CrewCab, DRW, 5 spd tranny, 4.10 gears, 180,xxx miles, Retro-fit Intercooler, DIY Open Air Intake, Pedal Mod, BDP Tranny Savers, Diesel Innovations 6 Position Chip, LUK Clutch/Flywheel SMFW Upgrade. Member: Georgia Bounty Runners 4Wheel Drive Club in Atlanta, GA. Pulling Trail Modified Cherokee with Lance 8.5 ft Truck Camper in the bed.
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