That's right.It has happened again,but this time I think the rest of the engine is alright.I have already installed the new gasket and torqued it the way it should be.The way I did it this time is 65 ftlbs.in sequence;80 ftlbs. in sequence and then 105 in line sequence.The last being starting at the bottom front bolt going in a straight line back.There is 4 lines.I didn't do last part when I rebuilt the engine.I just did them all in sequence to 95 ftlbs (international spec)and 105 ftlbs being Hanes.I do have ARP studs with stock head gaskets and haven't been over 35 psi of boost.I have though for the last month been running the same chip that was in it when it through a rod.Could this be the culprate????????????When it let go I was not racing it just taking off from a stop light.
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Clifford A.Thomas III
Dyno'd 343 hp and 685 ft.lbs. torque #2 tow setting
105???? I torqued mine to 135 (beans h-11 studs). I have 3k miles on mine already with many trips to 40++ psi and no pop for me. Could also be the difference in tuning though. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
I dont know why ARP has thier tqu so low on the 7.3. I do 130lbs on H-11 studs with moly grease and do not have hg problems. I had one customer that rebuilt his motor and with Stage II's blew a hg and with a stock turbo on a OBS truck, something that would not happen with stock bolts but did happen with ARP studs.
I would say they need atleast 115-120ft lbs to hold effectivly even with thier magic grease.
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From my experience studs should clamp more evenly than bolts.Well the engine is buttoned up on the side that blew,so it will be staying at 105 ftlbs (10ftlbs more than before)But I am going to retorque the other side.Now if someone can prove to me why 115-130 ftlbs is better,I would think 105ftlbs is good enough [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img],then I might redo to that?
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Clifford A.Thomas III
Dyno'd 343 hp and 685 ft.lbs. torque #2 tow setting
Ken,didn't do the program itself,but sent the info to someone who could.The program seemed better than the extreme one I had from Bill,it didn't smoke as much,but maybe the timing was to high???
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Clifford A.Thomas III
Dyno'd 343 hp and 685 ft.lbs. torque #2 tow setting
Nick your absolutely right. What Cliff probably is referring to are programs that Jody was asked to do for Ken a good while ago. Probably close to 1 1/2 years ago. Won't make that mistake again. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] Lesson Learned. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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Diane Tipton
828-221-0076
DP-Tuner®/Customer Service
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I will have Jody check that for you. He did say that he was pretty sure that it wasn't more then 15* in your programming. He will check it out when he gets home tonight.
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828-221-0076
DP-Tuner®/Customer Service
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[ QUOTE ]
From my experience studs should clamp more evenly than bolts.Well the engine is buttoned up on the side that blew,so it will be staying at 105 ftlbs (10ftlbs more than before)But I am going to retorque the other side.Now if someone can prove to me why 115-130 ftlbs is better,I would think 105ftlbs is good enough [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img],then I might redo to that?
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know but I always thought tighter was better...at least I like it that way [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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95 f250 4x4 xlt Excab Lb. white, BTS Trans, 4.10ls, Dana 60, ORU RS kit DR 4"front 5" reas springs!, Bilsteins, Centerline 18x9", 37" Toyo MT's,H2e, Tapercore IC,3" Billet intakes, Tymar 4" exhaust,intake and HX mod,Beans 2's, Stealth and Fuel system and DI studs, JS's IDM mod, TW 4 pos chip,TSM Rear Disks, 198k miles.
2004 EB 4x4 6.0 X born 05/18/04
white, LS,premier group, tow package, dvd. centerline 18x9" w/ 35" Toyo MT's, Edge 4.5" Lift, V's & custom B codes 37k miles 3rd turbo 6 5150 Specialy valved Bilsteins!
1976 EB Exploration daily driver
1971 EB Hard Core Crawler
2006 Yamaha FJR1300
2005 Suzuki King Quad